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I dropped the same math course four times in college before having to finally suffer through the class to complete my required credits to graduate…so I’m no help on the geometry hocus-pocus.
With that being said, if you do decide to do some garage door work confer your motor to a side mount (vs center one likely installed). You’ll gain even more height at the opening because it’s mounted higher on the side of the garage door plus the added benefit of being much more quiet. We had the same problem with our door, our garage door company actually did the adjustment on the old motor to raise it a 2 inches. We still did the new side motor when it came back in stock as well. Just a thought for when/if you go that route.
If you want a daily dose of first world problems, you've come to the right place. Let me preface this by saying I feel like the world's biggest idiot right now.
Finally picked up my 110 yesterday, and i have the clearsight rear view mirror (so i have that fin thing on the top of the car that holds the camera). I had previously measured this out, but not taking into account the extra 3" or so of fin on the top. Long story short, BARELY managed to get the car in the garage, but now I'm realizing the metal beam on the door would rip this camera right out if i backed out of the garage (it's angled and extends about 2" from the door, so i have like half an inch of clearance going in, but none if trying to back out). So now i am waiting for a garage door guy to come and help me get the car out.
Anyone have any helpful hints? Similar stories? is it possible to extend the tracks on a garage door so that the door will lift up an extra couple of inches?
Does anyone recommend a garage door repair service in Chandler? This morning I heard a loud pop and my garage door will not go up.
Sounds as simple as a broken door spring perhaps, which should be a relatively easy and inexpensive repair for any garage door repair outfit - nothing to do with electrics or electronics. Those big springs don't always outlive the life of the door, they do snap and break after several years of use, the heavier the door the shorter their life.
Last edited by umbertob; Mar 28, 2022 at 01:00 PM.
Sounds as simple as a broken door spring perhaps, which should be a relatively easy and inexpensive repair for any garage door repair outfit - nothing to do with electrics or electronics. Those big springs don't always outlive the life of the door, they do snap and break after several years of use, the heavier the door the shorter their life.
Public service message. I'll do anything and everything construction related but those springs will kill you. Pay someone.
Listen to @_Allegedly ! I do a lot of stupid "stuff" and take it as an absolute point of pride to fix most everything around the house (even when my wife pleads for me to just hire it done), but I will NOT mess with garage doors. Find someone good (with real bonding / insurance). I'm sure there are some YouTube videos or what not of that stuff exploding. Plumbing, electricity, roofing, mod-ing an L663, woodwork, welding, you name it - I'm in. Garage doors beyond it squeeking or replacing the chain - I'm out...
Math can be a real beast sometimes, can't it? I also remember when we had our garage door serviced, the technician mentioned something similar about side-mounted motors. We ended up going that route too, and the difference was night and day. Quieter operation and extra height at the opening made a big difference. So yeah, definitely worth considering if you're thinking about garage door repairs or upgrades.
Last edited by Dewmonte; Feb 21, 2024 at 07:13 AM.
If you want a daily dose of first world problems, you've come to the right place. Let me preface this by saying I feel like the world's biggest idiot right now.
Finally picked up my 110 yesterday, and i have the clearsight rear view mirror (so i have that fin thing on the top of the car that holds the camera). I had previously measured this out, but not taking into account the extra 3" or so of fin on the top. Long story short, BARELY managed to get the car in the garage, but now I'm realizing the metal beam on the door would rip this camera right out if i backed out of the garage (it's angled and extends about 2" from the plano garage door repair, so i have like half an inch of clearance going in, but none if trying to back out). So now i am waiting for a garage door guy to come and help me get the car out.
Anyone have any helpful hints? Similar stories? is it possible to extend the tracks on a garage door so that the door will lift up an extra couple of inches?
Yes, it's possible to extend the tracks on a garage door to raise it higher. A garage door professional can install longer tracks to give you the extra clearance you need. Alternatively, you could try adjusting or relocating the camera if that's feasible.
I have asked my garage door guy about this height issue since I'm going to be slapping some 40's on my hummer later this year and I might be getting close to the top of the garage door with the roof rack.
He said that they need 10" of space between the garage ceiling and the door (indicated by my crude blue arrow in the picture - please excuse my disaster area of a garage) for the opener equipment. So if you have a higher ceiling inside your garage - you can get tracks run that can lift the door higher up. Unfortunately mine is as high as it gets.
One other thing to add is that you can drop to the bump-stops with GAP tool.
Lowers the vehicle by almost 2" below access height.
In addition to changing the opening stop position to as high as I can, this suspension trickery allows ingress/ egress with a fully loaded ski-rack with bindings up.
(With fewer skis I can load the skis bindings down side by side so regular access height is ample.)
He said that they need 10" of space between the garage ceiling and the door (indicated by my crude blue arrow in the picture - please excuse my disaster area of a garage) for the opener equipment. So if you have a higher ceiling inside your garage - you can get tracks run that can lift the door higher up. Unfortunately mine is as high as it gets.
I don't know if he brought up the fact that side openers exist by now - from my semi-educated recollection, you can halve that space because all you need to have above the garage door frame is the rails. However, there's a catch unless you have a "high lift garage door conversion" (not your case) - they need some sort of force for the door to go down otherwise they just produce slack in their cable and refuse to operate. Two ways to achieve that; either have the door balanced slightly overweight (also not your case because it will go completely flat), or have a "garage door pusher spring" installed to help the door to return to the point where it will go further down under its own weight. Those springs tend to screech nastily, but I'd say it's a small price to pay for all the space you're getting - and potentially getting the vehicle into the garage to begin with
I have the same problem - mine will likely not even fit into the garage except at access height if at all. Been thinking about the ways to prevent serious damage ("it is not if, it is when you get tired and make a mistake"), and am now seriously considering installing a contraption similar to the one below - except that this one seems to be heavy, but I'm thinking of rather something light that produces a very audible sound when hit - possibly a big aluminum tube. One complicating factor is that I'm sure as it is for lot of you folks, my driveway is at the angle to the garage floor plane, so the only way to get this right would be to actually calibrate the damn thing after it is installed
