Is it possible they are just using the standard billing items and include a new drain plug in the invoice? Given the speed and simplicity of the vacuum method I'd be surprised if they are removing the under-armor to do an oil change. Seems very odd.

Not doubting you for a minute, I'd just want to ask them how they did it before paying for the new plug.

 

Supplies arrived for my 1 year service.

 

Fully agree and I also questioned them and was told that they removed the plates to do the work hence why I asked the question here as to why. Now I was not there when they did it so never know for sure

 

I've done my oil change by removing the undershielding/plates.
The oilpan contains a side mounted drainhole, this is visible through a hole in the alu plate.
It's (almost ) impossible to drain the oil whitout any spilling to the underbody, this leaves marks.
So raise the car, get a flashlight and search for spilled oil.

 

I totally respect and admire those who actually pull the drain plug. But, not for me. Yep, the vacuum hose can brake, I might miss some oil, yada yada yada. If I went down below to do it the "traditional way" I could just as likely cross thread the plug resulting in the pan needing pulled, over torque the plug causing a crack, fail to appropriately secure all the pita cladding, yada yada yada. ("Just as likely" meaning they all have the same very low probability). Everything in life is a choice/compromise. Since I try to service this beast myself and do the maintenance intervals far more frequently than recommended, I'm ok with going thru the dip stick.

As with most things on the internet, there truly is no "right" or "wrong" approach, just personal preferences. Again, props to those who take the time to go old school. For some crazy reason, this 20th Century Curmudgeon is ok with trying something "new fangled" in servicing these vehicles.

One legit question may make me change my tune: does anyone know if the drain plug is magnetized? Surprisingly, it is on my son's Mini cooper (used so it could be after market). That could get me to change my approach. At least every fourth time. At every 5k, that would be on par with the Land Rover PM interval recommendation.

 

I have a 2022 D90, P300, the oil filter housing is different than the video.
The filter for the I4 engines is LR073669, this is the listed part for 2.0L petrol and diesel engines.

 

Editing these posts to be a bit more useful than the questions that were here before.
Here are the under shields in case anyone does the drain from the plug like me.
It wasn't that bad, and I had a lot of mud stuck down there so it was a good time to clean it out.

The rear/center shield comes off first.
Very straight forward, you need a 10mm socket and a T30 torx for 2 screws that attach to the front shield.



Then 15mm socket for the front shield.
I removed all of them, the 2 that have a keyhole to slide into are a hard to slide out over the washers and the inner felt material if left in.
Just remove all of the bolts and bend the felt on the left and right side to get the 2 bolts underneath.
Then bend the felt again a bit to slide the shield out.



You will then be able to see the drain plug.
On the P300 it is in a wierd position and the oil will shoot out onto the transmission.

 

The primary reason to do the first oil change old skool was to see if there where any metal residu or particles left in the oil(pan)
There was barely none to one, cracked the oil filter open also, only found a little bit very fine traces of metal.
So after 10K of serious use I know now not to worry, Oil change with the Castrol titanium every 15K is safe.

The drain plug is non magnetic..

 

I pulled out the drain plug on my D90 P300 and it is magnetic.


The plug was actually dirtier when first pulled out but I soaked up some of the oil so I could see the metal bits.

 

Thank you Brock,
Mine was not looking like yours, so I'll order an magnetic drainpllug ( LR154091)

My plug looked like this


Yours:

So why my 90 P300 was equiped with a non magnectic plug, I don't know...