Great questions - it says the key is not detected or something similar.

Maybe I need to push on the brake harder; will keep an eye on it. This seems to happen if the key is in my pocket and I am by no means sitting super far away from the dash or anything of that low-rider sort!

Will keep an eye on this.

 

Okay - if it is the message that the key is not detected or to place it under the steering column then you probably just need to put the key on the shelf . That happens to me occasionally - it's failing the proximity test. Just once, a few months ago, it stopped recognizing either key fob for 30 minutes or so unless I double-pressed the start button (I never figured out why that worked).

 

On my 22 Trek, I can't show what software version I'm on. I can't get any SOTA updates, I've reset pivi pro I've unplugged the battery no updates.

Also my mirrors won't fold in after arming the truck.

Other than that I love the truck.

on my 20 p400 hse I had the radiator coolant low constant error code. It even shut the truck down when I went 4 wheeling. Also the sun roof acted up and wouldn't close. Those were the only 2 issues on my 2020.

Just kind of annoying stuff. But we own 60-100k luxury overland vehicles!

 

Is this still working? I have same issue - dropped by dealership and they replaced battery. Still happens intermittently. Haven't tried the solution posted by DGINAZ.

 

Hey Okie_Defender - I have has good luck with my Defender and this key fob issue, but toggling off the Auto Start-Stop feature. I have gone over a month without having to put the key fob under the steering column, up until this week, when I received the message that the key fob wasn't recognized - has to place the key fob under the steering column to get it to start - I pressed the Auto Start-Stop button to disable the feature and now it seems fine again.

I'm not mechanic but this little trick seems to work for my Defender. Hope it's a helpful tip for you.
DGINAZ

 

It hasn't rained here much lately, but really the only obnoxious issue I seem to have is the wipers. They work really well much of the time, but occasionally they will go into high-speed mode despite not needing to, and only "reset" when I turn them off and back on. I'm not sure if the sensor is not adhered to the windshield properly, if it's broken, or if this is just some programming issue. Beyond that, things are still going well. I even checked the oil level today and gave it a good once over. It's still doing fine!

 

With around 2000 miles on the odometer, I got the dreaded "Low Coolant" message. But this was not a sensor error. The coolant level was in-fact low and the level in the reservoir was well below the "low" mark. I added around a half liter to get it up to the "max" line.
Is this a case of the factory not adding enough fluid or is there a slow leak somewhere (no leaks detected).
I'll keep an eye on it and report back.

 

Dj i didn’t know that the dreaded low-coolant level was a thing. I had about 800-1000 miles on ‘22 110 v8 and I thought it was the sensor but after checking it was below minimum. Filled her back up and then a week later happened again. (I had initially thought maybe they didn’t top it off and although I scheduled service to double check they were a month out.)

It definitely was leaking and quite irregularly if that makes any sense. They expedited my service since it was so new and fixed the leak. I didn’t drive as much and kept a bottle of coolant in the vehicle to be safe.

 

Ok me boys—I am following the rattle issue and need the brain trust.

I have fixed the latch which took some noise away. Installed the foam and then removed the triangle in the rear flimsy hatch. The dealer found a service bulletin on the rear battery that required additional foam insulation.

NOW, here is the last one to chase down. I have a rattle on driver’s side that sounds like it is coming from the window mechanism. Something starts rattling after a while of driving and typically on long road drives. I went back and thought about what could cause this to be fine for a while, and then start up. Then, I realized the common theme was that I was less than a quarter tank of gas. I tested my theory yesterday as it kicked in and it took 17.5 gallons to top the tank, and the rattle went away. Because the noise is on the driver’s side, it’s right behind my head as the noise works it’s way thru the metal of what appears to be the door. But, it could be just below the door.

Ok, the winner of this to help my dealer avoid tearing apart my car, gets accolades and immeasurable thanks!

Otherwise, at 2K miles, I have only had a software reset need on the PrivPro one day when there was no sound. I have had several people walk up to the Defender and say it’s the best looking “Range Rover” that they have ever seen. Of course, it’s not a Range Rover—those are for the super rich. Land Rover.

 

From your description, I would suspect something to do with a tank support is loose. Probably upper. When I get home I’ll check a Topix schematic. Anyway, the hard news is that if this is true (likely) then you have to access it from underneath the Defender. That is a huge PITA because of all the sound and debris protection down there. Then you have to put the entire Tetris puzzle back together. If you have a good route to the Service department already, you should go there. It’s going to be a lot of work just to uncover and they are likely to avoid it.

Good luck!