Within a month of my Defender 110 P400 going out of warranty I got a warning light for low coolant level. I filled reservoir and a few days later it was low again. With the hood open, looking down on the passengers side of the engine (with a flashlight) I could see dried coolant on the skid plate. Removed skid plate and pressurized the cooling system. From underneath the vehicle the leak appears to originate from where the cooling line comes into the turbocharger. I dried the area and pressurized several times and it appears to be where Part # KPLA-18K616-AD P108D goes into the turbocharger.
I haven't been able to find anything about how to replace this line. The connection at the top appears to be straight forward, but how it connects into the turbocharger isn't clear. I found a TikTok video where a mechanic shows the exact issue I am having, but doesn't go into the repair.
Has anyone else had this issue and can anyone share details for how the line connects into the turbocharger?

 

I got this same leak at about the 53k mark. Though out of warranty, the dealership performed the work. It entailed replacing 4 parts. Sadly, I can't be specific since this work was done on the down-low and I didn't get an invoice. Have you reviewed the online service manual?

 

I found a post that referenced an online manual, but the link wasn't there. I ordered an electronic copy of the manual of eBay tonight, but it will be a few days before I get it. I cross-referenced some other posts and I think I need to replace parts LR121762 and LR121417, I am going to look again in the AM - it looks like it may be held on by a couple of small bolts. Will see what I can figure out...

 

Interesting, I can't help but my 2020 110 P400 had both of those turbo coolant lines "supply" and "return" -- replaced under warranty in the first 18 mod for leaking. Seems common.

I think they replaced both the lines and o-rings that seal the lines btw on mine.

 

To the thread starter,
If you do your own work, you could try to tight the bolt shown in the center of your first picture.
I believe this bolt holding the pipes (in and out) to the turbo and the actual seal in there are o-rings.

If it was my car,
I would undo the bolt, pull the pipes out, replace all the o-rings involved, clean off any debris/deposits etc, re-install the pipes, then put in the bolt and properly tight it.
Then, start the engine, top up coolant and drive the car as you normally do, but keep a close eye on coolant level and add more if need.
If coolant level stabilized after a few day, all good.
if not, then keep working on it.

Good luck.

 

is the p400 using two turbos? I have (likely) the exact same engine (the 2.0L), but with one turbo (in a way smaller LR2). I replaced the turbo at about 85,000 miles. Until then it was fine. When it went, I had clouds of white smoke from the exhaust. Anyways, on my car it's all worked well. But losing the turbo so soon? Is the p400 set-up stressing the turbo?

 

I completed the repair today, which fortunately was fairly straight forward.

I ended up replacing the turbocharger lower feed and return tube (Part #'s LR121417 & LR121762), although Can_Glu's recommendation would have likely been as good and certainly a less expensive option. Those two lower tubes are metal with an o-ring. The metal looked good, so the only reason I can see that this leaked was because of an o-ring that had some level of deterioration from the heat over time (although this car is too new to have had this issue IMHO). A couple of things that I discovered:
1) The inlet and outlet orifice are directly above one another, held into the turbocharger by a single common bolt (9mm I think). To remove the return line (LR121762) you must also remove the feed line (LR121417) because the brackets that hold them in place overlap (see pic).
2) Because of the way these two lines are positioned, it is virtually impossible to identify which of the two lines is leaking. As a result, you may as well replace both when you do this job (hence every story I have heard from people about dealer replacements involves both lines).

Removing the lines was a little cramped, but not too bad. The bolt that held these lines in place was tight - so that wasn't the issue. The repair consisted of removing the 9mm bolt followed by the removal of the water feed tube at both ends (LR121417 and LR135656). I then separated LR121417 and LR135656 and reused the upper part (LR135656) when I put everything back together. I separated the upper and lower return tubes (LR121762 and LR124541) without removing the upper tube from the car, and then removed the lower tube. Separating the lower return tube from the turbocharger was a little tricky because of wires and another line that ran past it, but I was able to slide it out. Installation was all of this in reverse.

Thanks for the input and I hope this helps someone in the future. Good luck.

 

Did you have to take the skid plate off did you have to take anything else off to get to this line?

 

Is the left one the inlet or the outlet? To me, with what I can see in the pic, I would guess that was the leaker. That o-ring looks perished.
Curious if anyone has tried to source that style of o-ring. It would be great to understand the dimensions and replacement feasibility for the next DIY soldier to give it a try.

 

My two lines should be delivered next Tuesday and I will be doing this on mine. I’m also replacing the expansion tank because it appears to have a small leak at the level sensor from underneath.
I took the skid plates off and plan to try to tackle it from underneath, but I’m sure it will require being both under and on top of it