Disco II high Line Audio System
#1
Disco II high Line Audio System
I have been through about every audio related thread on this site and every other LandRover site known to man. There are tons of opinions, but not much come from facts.
He is what I have come up with so far:
12 Speakers all together.
Front Right and Front Left
{1} 3” Mid Base in parallel with {1} 1” Tweeter per door connected to one channel on factory amp
6.5” Woofer connected to one channel on factory amp
Rear Right and Rear Left
{1} 6.5” Mid Base in parallel with {1) 1” Tweeter per door connected to one channel on factory amp
Rear DoorS
{2} 6.5” Subwoofers each connected ton one channel on factory amp
Head Unit
Harmon Kardon Unit with 6 Disc CD Changer under Front Driver Seat.
All speaker output connections go to Harmon Kardon 8 Channel Amplifier under Front Passenger Seat.
Amplifier
Harmon Kardon 320 Watt @ 4 ohms 8 channel Amplifier with High Level Speaker inputs (edit: found they may actually be low/line preamp inputs)
Notes:
2 Rear Door Subwoofers AND 2 Front Door Woofers are each connected to a dedicated an Amplifier channel. These are all 4 ohms each.
Questions:
If the Mid Bass and tweeters in each door are 4 ohms each, and are in parallel, wouldn't that be a 2 ohm load, which is more demanding than the 4 ohm maximum of the amplifier?
How Does the DVD/Video system connect into the Harmon Kardon head unit? (Read RAVE and figured this out)
Everybody seems to agree that changing out the Head Unit is the best upgrade for Sound quality and power. How is this true if all of the OEM Head Unit output is ran straight to the Amplifier. Wouldn't the Amplifier dictate Sound Quality and Power? Wouldn't the first best option be sound deadening the doors, replace original drivers with 10-75watt drivers. Then you have good drivers that can handle the second option which would be to replace the amplifier and possibly the head-unit.
Found out that Factory Amplifier has active frequency crossovers on each channel. True output is probably around 15 to 18 watts RMS each channel
__________________
He is what I have come up with so far:
12 Speakers all together.
Front Right and Front Left
{1} 3” Mid Base in parallel with {1} 1” Tweeter per door connected to one channel on factory amp
6.5” Woofer connected to one channel on factory amp
Rear Right and Rear Left
{1} 6.5” Mid Base in parallel with {1) 1” Tweeter per door connected to one channel on factory amp
Rear DoorS
{2} 6.5” Subwoofers each connected ton one channel on factory amp
Head Unit
Harmon Kardon Unit with 6 Disc CD Changer under Front Driver Seat.
All speaker output connections go to Harmon Kardon 8 Channel Amplifier under Front Passenger Seat.
Amplifier
Harmon Kardon 320 Watt @ 4 ohms 8 channel Amplifier with High Level Speaker inputs (edit: found they may actually be low/line preamp inputs)
Notes:
2 Rear Door Subwoofers AND 2 Front Door Woofers are each connected to a dedicated an Amplifier channel. These are all 4 ohms each.
Questions:
If the Mid Bass and tweeters in each door are 4 ohms each, and are in parallel, wouldn't that be a 2 ohm load, which is more demanding than the 4 ohm maximum of the amplifier?
How Does the DVD/Video system connect into the Harmon Kardon head unit? (Read RAVE and figured this out)
Everybody seems to agree that changing out the Head Unit is the best upgrade for Sound quality and power. How is this true if all of the OEM Head Unit output is ran straight to the Amplifier. Wouldn't the Amplifier dictate Sound Quality and Power? Wouldn't the first best option be sound deadening the doors, replace original drivers with 10-75watt drivers. Then you have good drivers that can handle the second option which would be to replace the amplifier and possibly the head-unit.
Found out that Factory Amplifier has active frequency crossovers on each channel. True output is probably around 15 to 18 watts RMS each channel
__________________
Last edited by cybercop; 11-15-2014 at 12:19 PM. Reason: Correct information after research
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