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1993 Range Rover Classic LWB

Old Oct 29, 2015 | 05:51 PM
  #31  
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I have a set of KC 7" with hid conversions installed already. I also had a pair of 1300 lumen LED driving lights, I gave them to my Dad though for his Mustang. I upgraded the MGB to 2700 lumen each led driving lights I am not hurting for light lol
 

Last edited by ArmyRover; Oct 29, 2015 at 06:38 PM.
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 05:16 PM
  #32  
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In the NE i run craftmaster couser msr unstudded and the wear well and i have run them right into summer. They are a house brand of cooper tire.
Originally Posted by ArmyRover
I have a set of KC 7" with hid conversions installed already. I also had a pair of 1300 lumen LED driving lights, I gave them to my Dad though for his Mustang. I upgraded the MGB to 2700 lumen each led driving lights I am not hurting for light lol
 
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 07:54 PM
  #33  
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Besides the excellent tires already mentioned I ran a set of the Nokian Nordman 4's 245-70R16 on my Disco last winter and so far the best tire I've come across for wet/snow/ice traction. We get our share of winter weather including double digit sub zero and the Nordman's just went at it like on dry roads. https://www.nokiantires.com/winter-t...an-nordman-5/#
 
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 06:25 PM
  #34  
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The Blizzaks are on!



It's a little snug with the 215/85/16's I might need to do some trimming of the Valance.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 08:47 PM
  #35  
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Nice choice, they are great tires.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 05:49 PM
  #36  
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I haven't updated in a while as I've been dealing with my D2 but here goes...

Replaced the fan clutch and Radiator yesterday and 2 of the hoses that were in bad shape.
My original plan was to spend more time and replace all the cooling hoses, transmissions lines and power steering lines but the water pump exploding on my D2 meant that I'm daily driving the Classic for a while until I get the time to fix it.

I really need to replace the exhaust on the Classic. it sounds plain nasty and has a leak up by the passenger side manifold that needs to be addressed.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2015 | 03:56 PM
  #37  
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The Classic is back on the lift and temporarily off the road while I wait for a new Oil Pressure sender, arriving today. The one I bought from AB only lasted 6 weeks until it failed. Sourced a replacement from Carquest STC4104 at $6 bucks a sender.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2016 | 04:45 PM
  #38  
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I love these in white, she just looks so classy!
 
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Old Jan 24, 2016 | 10:39 PM
  #39  
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It's been a while since I've touched the Classic. It's been a solid daily driver for our Au Pair.

4 hours before she needed the car for her Saturday night "hot date", she mentions to me that the drivers side door lock doesn't work with the key. This wouldn't be so bad but using the key fob or passenger door was locking all doors except the drivers side. The only way to lock the car would be to lock it from inside, then crawl out the rear hatch! Not good.

I ended up letting our au pair borrow my D2 under strict pain of death if anything happens to it (gulp) and tore into the drivers side door.

It turns out that the linkage clip had come off, allowing the cylinder to spin when they key is inserted. I had the genius idea to pull the clip off the passenger door, which would have worked and been awesome except for the fact that I dropped the clip inside the door and no amount of rooting with my magnet could find it.

I found a set of linkage clips that would work at Napa the next day and, since I had the door cards off anyways, I decided to do some rust repair. The drivers side door was rusting on the inside at the bottom of the door. I ground it out with my trusty dremel , primed the door and painted it. It turned out pretty good, at the very least it'll hold me over until I get the truck resprayed this summer.

Emboldened by my success, I cleaned up the passenger front door as well. The only remaining spot where's there's body rust now is underneath the tailgate. I'll have to remove the tailgate to get to that. Oh and the battery box, but I'll get to that next weekend.

The big bonus was that after putting everything back together, the center locking is now working properly from all doors using the key and the fob. I guess that the actuator senses when there's resistance to the lock closing and pushes the button back up? In this case I noticed that the lock button plastic guide was broken, so it was making locking on the drivers side "sticky".

Lastly I rewired my gps, as I needed to be able to switch power adapters and the installer had soldered the wires onto the power adapter! Next weekend, I'll wire up the reverse camera which works with the gps. I'm not sure where to mount it as I don't want to drill the bumper.

My wife's lr4 needs rear brakes and so does the Classic. I also need to order a full exhaust for this thing. It's ridiculously loud.
 

Last edited by Robert Booth; Jan 24, 2016 at 10:42 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 11:43 AM
  #40  
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I wired up the reverse camera yesterday. It's quite a neat implementation. I didn't want to drill the tailgate or bumper so I installed it on the license plate and tapped the Drivers side reverse light so that the cam switches on automatically when I put the truck in reverse.
Today i'm finally going to take a look at the exhaust leak.
 
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