The official TRIARII build
#122
01-09-2016, 08:39 AM
Rock Crawling
#124
01-09-2016, 05:21 PM
#125
01-09-2016, 05:30 PM
OMG! EVERYONE on the entire island knows about me now. Probably half the town was there that night watching and baffled as to how I got up there and how to get me down! Took firefighters afew hours just to figure out a solution. I was maybe 6 stories up. Haha Made the news: Ballyhoo Rescue | KUCB
Yoops Turner actually recommends Rotella but I can run it by them one more time. Which oil to use in this block was one of the many questions I asked Turner before making the investment.
Im still in Dutch until the 15th so not in the lower 48 for another week. Thanks for the support everyone. The mechanic only works weekdays so wont have anymore updates until early next week.
#126
01-11-2016, 11:02 AM
Baja
just about every manufacture offer break in oil, lucas, amsol, comp cams, royal purple, total seal piston, edelbrock.
But most stores just dont carry it because t like $6-10 a quart and is only used that one time, and most people would just buy a start up additive you should order yourself up a 8-10 quarts of real break in oil.
But most stores just dont carry it because t like $6-10 a quart and is only used that one time, and most people would just buy a start up additive you should order yourself up a 8-10 quarts of real break in oil.
Last edited by drowssap; 01-11-2016 at 11:11 AM.
#127
01-12-2016, 12:40 AM
From Turner regarding Shell Oil
"Warning: If You Have An Older Vehicle, Choose Your Oil Carefully
November 30th, 2007 Posted in Car Care, Eric Peters, Tips
If you own an older car, you might want to think twice about the oil you’re using.
In order to comply with federal requirements that key emissions control components on new cars such as catalytic converters last at least 120,000 miles (previously, it was 100,000 miles) automakers have been pushing for reductions in an oil additive known as zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate (ZDDP), which contains phosphorous (as well as zinc and manganese).
The problem for late model emissions-controlled cars is that the phosphorous in ZDDP has been linked with premature catalytic converter failure – or at least, premature loss of converter efficiency.
But the problem for older cars with flat tappet camshafts – which means pretty much all cars built before about the mid-1980s, when roller camshafts began to supplant the flat tappet design – is that oils with low ZDDP levels can cause rapid premature wear, even failure, of flat tappet camshafts. In a nutshell, the ZDDP cushions the high pressure point between the lifter crown and the camshaft lobe, acting as anti-friction, anti-wear barrier.
Running without the ZDDP is almost like running without oil — and with the same results.
Levels of ZDDP in commonly available mainstream motor oils – including big-name brands and high dollar synthetics – have been dropping since the new emissions longevity requirements became effective with the 2004 model year.
Unfortunately, many hobbyists and owners of older cars with flat tappet camshafts are unaware of the changing formulations – and the threat low-ZDDP oils may represent.
The situation is analogous to the days when lead began to disappear from gasoline. Engines that had been designed to burn leaded fuel (especially high-performance engines run at high RPMs) fell victim to premature valve recession caused by the use of unleaded fuel.
WHAT TO DO?
The first thing is to determine whether your vehicle is equipped with a flat tappet camshaft.
* If it’s an American-brand car older than model year 1980 and the engine is either original or has been rebuilt to original specifications, the odds are virtually 100 percent certain that you have a flat tappet camshaft.
* It’s also very likely you have one if your car is early-mid 1980s.
By the latter half of the ’80s and into the 1990s, roller-style camshafts were becoming the norm – and you are probably safe. But it’s important to be sure.
You won’t find information on the type of camshaft your vehicle has in your owner’s manual.
You’ll need to consult a technical service manual – or simply ask someone who is knowledgeable. The service manager at a dealership for your make/model of car ought to know – or should be able to find out.
WHAT TO USE?
There are still a few oils on the market that have adequate levels of ZDDP.
* Shell Rotella T which is a conventional (mineral-based) oil that was originally formulated for diesel engines. Rotella T still contains 1,200 parts per million ZDDP, according to Shell – which is as much as five times the amount found in other oils. Don’t sweat it that Rotella was/is "for diesels." It’s also an excellent choice for older, non-emissions controlled engines with flat tappet cams that need their ZDDP. Rotella’s also modestly priced and readily available at most any auto parts store. Shell also markets a synthetic version of Rotella that offers even more protection – as well as longevity and a 5W-40 viscosity for those who operate their vehicles in colder climates. Standard Rotella comes in a heavier 15W-40 blend. * Another choice – in a full synthetic – is Amsoil which carries a line of oils with ZDDP in popular viscosities such as 10W-40 and heavier 20W-50. * Redline oil is also still fine for older engines with flat tappet cams. Unfortunately, both Amsoil and Redline can be hard to find at your local store; but if you plan ahead, you can order a case from any one of multiple suppliers online and just keep a stash on hand.
Another option is additives.
GM used to sell an over the counter Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) that was just what the doctor ordered – and for only about $12 per bottle. Unfortunately, GM stopped making the stuff and it’s now very hard to find. Luckily, Competition Cams does offer something similar – its Engine Break-in Oil Additive. Comp cams used to recommend this for initial break-in but now recommends that it be added with the oil at every oil change.
Here’s the skinny from Tech Bulletin 225:
While this additive was originally developed specifically for break-in protection, subsequent testing has proven the durability benefits of its long term use. This special blend of additives promotes proper break-in and protects against premature cam and lifter failure by replacing some of the beneficial ingredients that the oil companies have been required to remove from off the shelf oil.
So there you have it.
If you own an older vehicle, you’d be well-advised to give some thought to your next oil change – and what kind of oil you’ll be pouring into the crankcase.
This is a guest post by automotive columnist Eric Peters, check him out on the web at EPautos - Libertarian Car Talk.
Recommended oils for V8 engines:
1 The engine should be run in ideally with a running in oil which has adequate ZDDP content to protect the camshaft.
Millers oil in the UK supply such an oil
2 Service oil can be the following, semi synthetic, mineral or other and should contain at least 1000 parts per million ZDDP
10W40
15W40
20W50
Millers oils supply a 20W50 to the correct specification.
Millers Trident 10W40 - 1100 parts per million ZDDP
Please ensure when using any other make of engine oil to check with the manufacturer that the engine oil contains sufficient ZDDP (around 1000ppm) to protect the camshaft.
The Rover V8 is a flat tappet engine designed several decades ago and some modern motor oils do not give sufficient protection. ZDDP is an anti scuff additive.
It is also important to ensure that the engine oil is changed often enough to avoid fuel degradation and other contamination which can affect the long term life expectancy of the engine supplied.
We would be pleased to hear from customers who have taken the trouble to research makes of engine oil suitable for this engine that we can add to our list of recommended oils."
November 30th, 2007 Posted in Car Care, Eric Peters, Tips
If you own an older car, you might want to think twice about the oil you’re using.
In order to comply with federal requirements that key emissions control components on new cars such as catalytic converters last at least 120,000 miles (previously, it was 100,000 miles) automakers have been pushing for reductions in an oil additive known as zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate (ZDDP), which contains phosphorous (as well as zinc and manganese).
The problem for late model emissions-controlled cars is that the phosphorous in ZDDP has been linked with premature catalytic converter failure – or at least, premature loss of converter efficiency.
But the problem for older cars with flat tappet camshafts – which means pretty much all cars built before about the mid-1980s, when roller camshafts began to supplant the flat tappet design – is that oils with low ZDDP levels can cause rapid premature wear, even failure, of flat tappet camshafts. In a nutshell, the ZDDP cushions the high pressure point between the lifter crown and the camshaft lobe, acting as anti-friction, anti-wear barrier.
Running without the ZDDP is almost like running without oil — and with the same results.
Levels of ZDDP in commonly available mainstream motor oils – including big-name brands and high dollar synthetics – have been dropping since the new emissions longevity requirements became effective with the 2004 model year.
Unfortunately, many hobbyists and owners of older cars with flat tappet camshafts are unaware of the changing formulations – and the threat low-ZDDP oils may represent.
The situation is analogous to the days when lead began to disappear from gasoline. Engines that had been designed to burn leaded fuel (especially high-performance engines run at high RPMs) fell victim to premature valve recession caused by the use of unleaded fuel.
WHAT TO DO?
The first thing is to determine whether your vehicle is equipped with a flat tappet camshaft.
* If it’s an American-brand car older than model year 1980 and the engine is either original or has been rebuilt to original specifications, the odds are virtually 100 percent certain that you have a flat tappet camshaft.
* It’s also very likely you have one if your car is early-mid 1980s.
By the latter half of the ’80s and into the 1990s, roller-style camshafts were becoming the norm – and you are probably safe. But it’s important to be sure.
You won’t find information on the type of camshaft your vehicle has in your owner’s manual.
You’ll need to consult a technical service manual – or simply ask someone who is knowledgeable. The service manager at a dealership for your make/model of car ought to know – or should be able to find out.
WHAT TO USE?
There are still a few oils on the market that have adequate levels of ZDDP.
* Shell Rotella T which is a conventional (mineral-based) oil that was originally formulated for diesel engines. Rotella T still contains 1,200 parts per million ZDDP, according to Shell – which is as much as five times the amount found in other oils. Don’t sweat it that Rotella was/is "for diesels." It’s also an excellent choice for older, non-emissions controlled engines with flat tappet cams that need their ZDDP. Rotella’s also modestly priced and readily available at most any auto parts store. Shell also markets a synthetic version of Rotella that offers even more protection – as well as longevity and a 5W-40 viscosity for those who operate their vehicles in colder climates. Standard Rotella comes in a heavier 15W-40 blend. * Another choice – in a full synthetic – is Amsoil which carries a line of oils with ZDDP in popular viscosities such as 10W-40 and heavier 20W-50. * Redline oil is also still fine for older engines with flat tappet cams. Unfortunately, both Amsoil and Redline can be hard to find at your local store; but if you plan ahead, you can order a case from any one of multiple suppliers online and just keep a stash on hand.
Another option is additives.
GM used to sell an over the counter Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) that was just what the doctor ordered – and for only about $12 per bottle. Unfortunately, GM stopped making the stuff and it’s now very hard to find. Luckily, Competition Cams does offer something similar – its Engine Break-in Oil Additive. Comp cams used to recommend this for initial break-in but now recommends that it be added with the oil at every oil change.
Here’s the skinny from Tech Bulletin 225:
While this additive was originally developed specifically for break-in protection, subsequent testing has proven the durability benefits of its long term use. This special blend of additives promotes proper break-in and protects against premature cam and lifter failure by replacing some of the beneficial ingredients that the oil companies have been required to remove from off the shelf oil.
So there you have it.
If you own an older vehicle, you’d be well-advised to give some thought to your next oil change – and what kind of oil you’ll be pouring into the crankcase.
This is a guest post by automotive columnist Eric Peters, check him out on the web at EPautos - Libertarian Car Talk.
Recommended oils for V8 engines:
1 The engine should be run in ideally with a running in oil which has adequate ZDDP content to protect the camshaft.
Millers oil in the UK supply such an oil
2 Service oil can be the following, semi synthetic, mineral or other and should contain at least 1000 parts per million ZDDP
10W40
15W40
20W50
Millers oils supply a 20W50 to the correct specification.
Millers Trident 10W40 - 1100 parts per million ZDDP
Please ensure when using any other make of engine oil to check with the manufacturer that the engine oil contains sufficient ZDDP (around 1000ppm) to protect the camshaft.
The Rover V8 is a flat tappet engine designed several decades ago and some modern motor oils do not give sufficient protection. ZDDP is an anti scuff additive.
It is also important to ensure that the engine oil is changed often enough to avoid fuel degradation and other contamination which can affect the long term life expectancy of the engine supplied.
We would be pleased to hear from customers who have taken the trouble to research makes of engine oil suitable for this engine that we can add to our list of recommended oils."
