I did not realize there was another fan in the bay. Must be between the grille and radiator. Ill take a look tomorrow and see if it can be cleaned up or not. Does the radiator have to be removed for access to the electric fan?

 

I'm not sure. I was lucky and mine worked on both D2.

 

You can get to the electric fan that sits behind the grill by removing the grill. It's supposed to come on at around 208 I believe but should also always run when the AC is engaged. While you're at that job, might want to buy an oil cooler "kit" if you haven't already to bring your cooling system on par with pre-facelift trucks.

 

That was my next question. When is the electric fan suppose to start spinning? The engine does not reach 208 so by turning on the AC to full blast that will make the fans start moving? I live in New England and weather or not I chose to stay here or relocate to Alaska, both regions are very cold so the oil cooler kit will not be needed for my truck. I dont want things to get to cold. 188 is fine for temps.

Next question, every since the engine swap my heater has not been producing as much heat. My truck has always had a awesome heater but now not quit as much. Bows hot air but it cools quickly now. Could this be related to the electric fans? I ran it by my mechanic and he suggested I top off the coolant, which I did and still no change. The heater motor/fan assembly is clean and working as it should to the best of my knowledge and I installed new felt in the air duck so no debris can get into the heater fan. No noises from the fan either. Just not producing as much heat as it used to before the swap.

 

The electric fan does not spin even with the AC turned on full blast. However my mechanic said that the electric fan will only turn on for an over heat situation. Still the fan should spin freely he said. I unplugged the power to the fan and tried to manually rotate the fan but it wont budge. Im wondering if it is possible to un-seize the fan. Im going to pull it apart and see what I can find.

SAo far that fuse I replaced yesterday has not blown.

 

The fan on my 04 was totally siezed too.

Since you didnt want a used side mirror I doubt you will go this route, but...

I replaced the motor with one from a junkyard corrolla. It was a 93 or something like that. I had to switch the plug and shave a little bit of material off of where the fan attached to the motor, but it worked great.

 

Its tempting but yeah I strongly oppose sourcing random other make parts for my truck. My truck does not leave me broke... my OCD does! I want to keep most things original and any upgrades must be designed for this specific truck.

I managed to get the fan taken apart, sanded off the rust and greased the hell out of the unit with WD-40, sadly no luck so I will source a used one from ZGPhoto as a bandage fix, then when Im in the market Ill invest in a new genuine electric fan. I pulled out the unit and threw it away. Its probably been seized for years and even before the engine swap the old cooling fan kept the engine temps within range so everything should run just fine without the electric fan temporary.

 

Unrelated to the electric fan and 02 sensor codes, I think the next big project will be the frame and Im pretty sure it will be addressed this year. Rovers North sells the rear most section of the frame as a single piece but nothing for the middle and front sections. My mechanic agrees that an all out frame swap will be the better solution long term, VS restoring my current frame. Im confident that Ill be able to source a rust free 2004 frame for around $1,000. When I get it I will personally clean it up using a wire wheel, then apply anti rust **** and maybe a clear coat. Then Ill have the mechanic apply waxoly and do the swap. He thinks it can be done for between $3,000-$4,000 depending on what else has to be replaced along the way. Id also have him replace all the old rubber bushings with new rubber bushings (NOT POLY).

So if any folks here have a southern based 2003/2004 rust free frame in their shed please let me know. Im not in the market just yet for one but rest assured it will be in the near future. And yes it needs to be a 2003/4 frame, not a 1999-2000. Dont need the axles or anything else, just the frame.

 

I'm dying!

Spend $20 so you can get some real time data already before you post again.
What are your coolant temps? If they're low then you may need a higher temp T-stat for more heat. If the temps are normal your coolant may be low or need to be bled.

Your frame....... Frame swaps are great when you have the engine already out!! LOL. With as much money as you have dumped in this truck you may as well just get a galvanized chassis. See if Lucky8 can bring one over for you in their next container.

 

Patience my friend and my engine temps are around 188-195. Coolant was just barely under the fill line so I added a little bit more for the hell of it. Using 180 TD5 thermostat.

I did not know Lucky8LLC sells frames. Found a guy out west who will sell me a rust free frame for $600 plus shipping. If i can figure out the shipping than Ill save alot of $$$$ versus a new frame.

This build will continue... and by the time im done with it this D2 will be the best condition D2 in all of New England!