I did not realize that you could galvanize a frame after the fact. When people started talking about a galvanized frame the only thing that came to mind was the new galv frame from Rovers North that retails around $5,000. If I can get a perfect rust free frame galvanized dipped for a reasonable price then bet your *** ill get that done. Like I said I did not know that was an option. As for the rusting on the inside of the frame, thats why Im looking for a frame from the south or out west where they dont get winter weather or salt on the roads. A frame like that should be rust free inside and out.

Thanks for the tips.

 

You should acid dip 4the frame before galvanizing it. That way the inside is prepared too.

Yes condenser fan or fans should be a priority. You can fit 2 12inch side by side. That is just insurance on a new motor.

You should look at an icarsoft for 120 dollars, video on AB. Will do most things you will need.


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Ultragauge will provide realtime monitoring of all 4 o2 sensors.

 

but an ultra gauge will not read and clears ABS or SLS or transmission code he he stuck in Alaska.

 

Thanks for the tips. I have sourced a used electric fan courtesy of Abran so that will take care of the electric fan problem. I still need to figure out why the heater is not producing as much heat.

I looked into the Icarsoft that you mentioned and am seriously considering ordering the iCarsoft LR II Scanner from Rovers North. Would be nice to have access to a system that can read future ABS amigo fault codes as well as advanced diagnostics of check engine codes. I will continue to use my Ultra-Gauge as its small, convenient and makes it easy to monitor battery voltage, engine temps and other specs during vehicle operation.

http://www.roversnorth.com/ProductDe...pe=0&eq&key=it


In the mean time is there anywhere else I can look on the truck to get to the bottom of the 02 codes? Again I probably will order the computer but it will take a week or so. Already pulled the ecm and inspected the ports and it was in great shape and very clean inside so I put that back in.

 

I hadn't seen the new bigger one, guess it time to go online and update my software.
it a nice little machine, will not do everything, but will do most you will need.

 

So if there is corrosion in your ECM, it could be IN it. At least that's where it was on my 1999. I even had to remove a little metal shield covering the pins, after I opened the computer up. I'm not saying that is your problem. I'm just saying that if it is, just looking at the outside isn't always enough.

 

I see your point but wouldn't there then be some sign of corrosion on the exterior of the ecm or perhaps inside the ports? Or perhaps corrosion at the points where the ecm bolts to the wall of the truck? As it stands there is no sign of corrosion anywhere in that general area. No rusting or discoloring on the wall, the wires and everything else up there looks nice and clean etc. If need be I can take it apart again but...

 

Did you check the condition of the plugs at the O2 sensors? Those are the ones that are most exposed to the elements, get connected and disconnected, and also might get whacked or filthy when drivelines are pulled.

For your heat, are you hearing a waterfall sound when you are running the truck? There may be air trapped in the top. You need to run the truck on the highway for a while to get enough coolant flowing through it to force the air out. Another possible problem, which is something I had to deal with and is pretty common, is that the core may be partially blocked. Disconnect the lines to the heater core and backflush it with a garden hose. I had some crap blow out of mine when I did that and my heat worked great afterwards. On mine, after I used the garden hose I used the exhaust from a small shop vac to blow out the tap water, then filled it with distilled water, then blew it out again, then filled it with 50/50 mix, then bled the system. I had to run the truck on the highway to get all of the air out of the heater core (waterfall sound) but after that my heat was awesome. The inlet hose comes off the intake and the return connects to the 3-way down below the front of the motor.

 

4 brand new out of box 02 sensors were installed during the engine swap along with everything else. Since I picked up the truck from the shop Ive driven the truck at least 285 miles on the highway. I also cleared the codes prior to the long drive. No waterfall sound effects in the cabin. I will look into the heater core when I have the time. However Im skeptical that the core would conveniently get clogged while the truck sat parked at the mechanics shop during my time in Alaska. I parked it in early April 2015 and up to that point I was using the heater every day and it worked wonderfully. Very hot and effective. In mid January 2016 I picked up the truck mind you a new block, new fan and clutch, new cooling hoses, new thermostat, fresh peak coolant, new radiator etc and now the heater is less effective. It still works alright just not as hot as it used to get.