Nah no one ever blocks their rads except for a few old timers... never had an issue or even thought about brake fluid and we'd get down to -45 with the wind chill. All we'd do is lighter weight winter oil, and make sure your coolant is 70/30.
some guys ran block heaters but I never did bother and my old chevy never let me down... the worst thing i ever had was freezing rain leaving a half inch layer of ice all over my truck. Took a couple of jugs of warm water to get the drivers door open!

 

I'm pretty sure that "wind chill" is only perceived by living animals and is irrelevant when talking about inanimate things such as an engine.

Step out of the truck and yeah, big problems.

 

A quick check...and that converts to -95 degrees Fahrenheit.


Ouch, that's cold. I'll stay here in a America...thank you very much...lol.


Brian.

 

I have no idea what your talking about.

 

the cam is throwing the misfire codes...the stock ecu/computer cant compensate at all times for the differing cam. Even after learning mode it will still occasionally throw the misfire codes...only way to rid it fully is to get a specific tune for the cam and the ecu. Mine does the same thing..1-3 times a yr. usually in cooler temps at idle after highway driving. It takes about 100-200 miles to pass readiness after the codes are erased for emissions....

 

It's actually -31F. -95F would be insane!

It all feels the same below -25C to me anyway

 

Someone should Google how to winterize a rover.

Okay I did. Not much info other than use synthetic oil and a more antifreeze heavy mix. I read about Kenlowe heaters that heat and circulate coolant when the truck is off (if plugged in). Heating pads for sump and, most interesting, for differentials. Diff oil apparently can degrade at Super low temps.

Hood blankets?! They do that in Wisconsin and Montana.

Heating pads for diffs.

Geez. I think TRIARII just need to start the truck every 4 hours and let it run a 15 minutes.

 

Its all good I know how to cure game meat.

Fisheh like Christopher McCandless probably does not know much about curing game meat let alone how to survive for a week in Alaska

Christopher died mostly of starvation. His last several journal entries support this notion. He had a shotgun and plenty of ammunition and he even caught himself some game meat (cant remember if it was a deer or something else) but the meat spoiled because he did not know to cure the meat. Ironically a week or so later some folks found his camp... To late.

Some native Alaskan Indians eat Alpine sweetvetch roots plus the plant is a foid source for various wild game. Follow the food source and you find game for the taking.

 

Got Roberts maf installed, cleared pending codes and same pending misfire codes returned next morning.

Thinking back to before I replaced the coil pack, my truck all the sudden drive like ****. The cel was flashing and I had cel misfire codes. The truck sounded rough and when U accelerated you could tell that the engine was having a bad day. Plus the cats were glowing red. Since replacing the plugs, wires and coil pack all those symptoms went away. Since Ive replaced the injectors UG says im getting slightly better gas mileage than prior. No cel codes, no flashing cel. No glowing cats and the truck runs great. My point is that I don't feel like doing the wires for a third time. I literally hate the job because all the **** you need to remove just to swap out a simple wire. If the wires (any of them were bad) I feel like some of those symptoms would reappear. So Im going to hold off on replacing wires or anything else for the time being.

Im still planning on getting a Tornado chip in my ecu but thats on hold until I get to AK. Cant afford to take my truck out of commission for 1-2 weeks for a dam computer chip.

Ill reach out to Turner with more specific information and mention the valid points you folks highlighted here. I will be replacing the abs shuttle valve switch very soon but I really need to focus my earnings on my trip. Ill fine tune later on.

As for the coolant. I use peak long life 50/50. I did not know there was a cold climate rated coolant. Ill keep my eyes open for some. What do you folks think about my idea of switching to Mobile 1 0w-30 for the trip? Right now Im religious about using Shell Rotella 15w-40.

 

I'm sorry the MAF didn't fix anything. I was pushing that. My bad. It worked for me in the past so I was hopeful.

I Googled cold weather antifreeze and most recommended 60/40 or even straight antifreeze. I also read an LR3 forum where several claimed to have electrical problems in extreme cold. A few claimed issues with diff oil and that's where I saw the term "heat pad".



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