The official TRIARII build
Just a brief update: I've invested $2,400 into my new Turner remanufactured stripped engine assembly. Land Rover 300TDI, 200TDI, V8, TD5, 2.5 Turbo Diesel Engines etc supplied from stock for Range Rover, Discovery, Defender from Turner Engineering Only $3,921.33 to go. Due to the shortage of secondary air injection compatible heads in the UK Ive opted to remove the heads off my engine and have them shipped to Turner Engineering so they can work their magic - Gasflowed performance heads. Ill also be getting the H180 Sports Torque Kent camshaft and most important of all the Heavy duty Ductile iron flanged liners! Still further I was delighted to learn that Turner also supplies new oil pump assemblies, new oil pump cover plates, water pumps, head gaskets and head bolts so Ive included EVERYTHING in this investment. Once the engine package is fully paid off my next investment will be updating the cooling system. Replacing the radiator all the hoses, fan, fan clutch, reservoir, label, and possibly the engine block pules.
That said I will have a spare 4.6 engine with 155k without heads and an engine tick that is up for grabs. Originally I was going to have my mechanic tear it apart and diagnose the ticking and go through the engine with a fine comb but in light of a already postponed cross country trip that I still need to prepare for and better money Im making here in Alaska, Ive decided to skip the tear down and diagnoses of my old engine and just replace it with a highly reputable engine. So I may never know for sure if my liners were slipping or if the ticking was caused by something else. But the engine still runs fine otherwise and I never had any major problems with it save dropping a bolt or nut down the oil filler neck. I went to Winter Romp with this old engine and have driven as far as Connecticut and back to New Hampshire again without any problems and the truck has not overheated as long as Ive had it (2012) not sure about the past though. Im obviously in Alaska right now but my truck is in the care of my trusted mechanic back in NH so if your interested in a spare engine then send me a PM and maybe we can work something out.
That said I will have a spare 4.6 engine with 155k without heads and an engine tick that is up for grabs. Originally I was going to have my mechanic tear it apart and diagnose the ticking and go through the engine with a fine comb but in light of a already postponed cross country trip that I still need to prepare for and better money Im making here in Alaska, Ive decided to skip the tear down and diagnoses of my old engine and just replace it with a highly reputable engine. So I may never know for sure if my liners were slipping or if the ticking was caused by something else. But the engine still runs fine otherwise and I never had any major problems with it save dropping a bolt or nut down the oil filler neck. I went to Winter Romp with this old engine and have driven as far as Connecticut and back to New Hampshire again without any problems and the truck has not overheated as long as Ive had it (2012) not sure about the past though. Im obviously in Alaska right now but my truck is in the care of my trusted mechanic back in NH so if your interested in a spare engine then send me a PM and maybe we can work something out.
Last edited by TRIARII; Jun 18, 2015 at 05:27 PM.
From my post above: "Once the engine package is fully paid off my next investment will be updating the cooling system. Replacing the radiator all the hoses, fan, fan clutch, reservoir, label, and possibly the engine block pules" - I do believe that covers the cooling system.
PS: Though I recently updated to the 180 thermostat, I think Ill order another 180 for the replacement engine, just for piece of mind. Also updating the engine mounts with the new Blacklisted mounts.
Last edited by TRIARII; Jun 18, 2015 at 05:32 PM.
I inquired about their gasflow heads and here is Turners response:
"The gasflowing work has been carried out directly behind the valves and consists of shaping work to enhance the flow in and out of the cylinder head. The exhaust port is enlarged and blended into the port behind the valve, the inlet port is worked on to remove sharp corners and features that cause unwanted turbulence in the inlet tract. Typically gasflowing heads of this type by this method will increase performance between 10 – 15%. As discussed we only remove enough metal to enhance flow without risk to the long term reliability of the component. These cylinder heads are aimed fairly and squarely at road users to improve driveability and overall performance.Our method of gasflowing does not include polishing of the ports other than the areas directly behind the valves due to the fact that research has shown that typical flow losses due to friction with the port wall is in the region of 3 – 4% and that polishing may reduce the losses by approximately 1% only. For example if the losses are 4% then after polishing it will be 3% only. In the case of a road engine where carbon deposits quickly replace whatever surface finish is on the port with a layer of carbon this quickly negates any small benefit. This is a well known fact in the tuning industry. Polishing work in this area adds cost but in practice brings very little to the party by way of value/performance.An engine built with an H180 camshaft should produce another 22bhp as claimed by the camshaft supplier Ken Cams. The gasflowing of the cylinder heads will usually yield 10-15% additional overall power above whatever the engine’s real world output is. However performance modifications are rarely cumulative and manufacturers claimed figures are exactly that ‘claimed figures’. Real world output means what the engine would produce if removed from the vehicle and dyno tested as is. "
I also assumed that if they have my heads then they would assemble the head gaskets and heads which would make things easier for my mechanic once the engine is shipped to his shop. I want this job done right, fully the first time. I love this forum and the people here have been most helpful over the years but I do blame this forum for traumatizing me and other members with the fear of a catastrophic engine failure. My mechanic is not alone when he tells me that the guys on these forums are nuts and paranoid. He says "those guys dont know **** about what they are talking about, they just copy a paste information". He went on to tell me about his early 2000's D2 that had a rotted out frame and a ticking engine. He said "I beat the **** out of that truck and it had over 200k on it and I never had any issues with the engine... STOP worrying about stupid ****, change your oil and coolant on time and enjoy your truck...!"
Well I did not listen and I grew tired of always wondering if my ticking engine would one day fail so here we are today.... once I get the new engine installed I can move on and let you guys worry yourself to death about your ticking engines. lol
I inquired about their gasflow heads and here is Turners response:
"The gasflowing work has been carried out directly behind the valves and consists of shaping work to enhance the flow in and out of the cylinder head. The exhaust port is enlarged and blended into the port behind the valve, the inlet port is worked on to remove sharp corners and features that cause unwanted turbulence in the inlet tract. Typically gasflowing heads of this type by this method will increase performance between 10 – 15%. As discussed we only remove enough metal to enhance flow without risk to the long term reliability of the component. These cylinder heads are aimed fairly and squarely at road users to improve driveability and overall performance.Our method of gasflowing does not include polishing of the ports other than the areas directly behind the valves due to the fact that research has shown that typical flow losses due to friction with the port wall is in the region of 3 – 4% and that polishing may reduce the losses by approximately 1% only. For example if the losses are 4% then after polishing it will be 3% only. In the case of a road engine where carbon deposits quickly replace whatever surface finish is on the port with a layer of carbon this quickly negates any small benefit. This is a well known fact in the tuning industry. Polishing work in this area adds cost but in practice brings very little to the party by way of value/performance.An engine built with an H180 camshaft should produce another 22bhp as claimed by the camshaft supplier Ken Cams. The gasflowing of the cylinder heads will usually yield 10-15% additional overall power above whatever the engine’s real world output is. However performance modifications are rarely cumulative and manufacturers claimed figures are exactly that ‘claimed figures’. Real world output means what the engine would produce if removed from the vehicle and dyno tested as is. "
I also assumed that if they have my heads then they would assemble the head gaskets and heads which would make things easier for my mechanic once the engine is shipped to his shop. I want this job done right, fully the first time. I love this forum and the people here have been most helpful over the years but I do blame this forum for traumatizing me and other members with the fear of a catastrophic engine failure. My mechanic is not alone when he tells me that the guys on these forums are nuts and paranoid. He says "those guys dont know **** about what they are talking about, they just copy a paste information". He went on to tell me about his early 2000's D2 that had a rotted out frame and a ticking engine. He said "I beat the **** out of that truck and it had over 200k on it and I never had any issues with the engine... STOP worrying about stupid ****, change your oil and coolant on time and enjoy your truck...!"
Well I did not listen and I grew tired of always wondering if my ticking engine would one day fail so here we are today.... once I get the new engine installed I can move on and let you guys worry yourself to death about your ticking engines. lol
"The gasflowing work has been carried out directly behind the valves and consists of shaping work to enhance the flow in and out of the cylinder head. The exhaust port is enlarged and blended into the port behind the valve, the inlet port is worked on to remove sharp corners and features that cause unwanted turbulence in the inlet tract. Typically gasflowing heads of this type by this method will increase performance between 10 – 15%. As discussed we only remove enough metal to enhance flow without risk to the long term reliability of the component. These cylinder heads are aimed fairly and squarely at road users to improve driveability and overall performance.Our method of gasflowing does not include polishing of the ports other than the areas directly behind the valves due to the fact that research has shown that typical flow losses due to friction with the port wall is in the region of 3 – 4% and that polishing may reduce the losses by approximately 1% only. For example if the losses are 4% then after polishing it will be 3% only. In the case of a road engine where carbon deposits quickly replace whatever surface finish is on the port with a layer of carbon this quickly negates any small benefit. This is a well known fact in the tuning industry. Polishing work in this area adds cost but in practice brings very little to the party by way of value/performance.An engine built with an H180 camshaft should produce another 22bhp as claimed by the camshaft supplier Ken Cams. The gasflowing of the cylinder heads will usually yield 10-15% additional overall power above whatever the engine’s real world output is. However performance modifications are rarely cumulative and manufacturers claimed figures are exactly that ‘claimed figures’. Real world output means what the engine would produce if removed from the vehicle and dyno tested as is. "
I also assumed that if they have my heads then they would assemble the head gaskets and heads which would make things easier for my mechanic once the engine is shipped to his shop. I want this job done right, fully the first time. I love this forum and the people here have been most helpful over the years but I do blame this forum for traumatizing me and other members with the fear of a catastrophic engine failure. My mechanic is not alone when he tells me that the guys on these forums are nuts and paranoid. He says "those guys dont know **** about what they are talking about, they just copy a paste information". He went on to tell me about his early 2000's D2 that had a rotted out frame and a ticking engine. He said "I beat the **** out of that truck and it had over 200k on it and I never had any issues with the engine... STOP worrying about stupid ****, change your oil and coolant on time and enjoy your truck...!"
Well I did not listen and I grew tired of always wondering if my ticking engine would one day fail so here we are today.... once I get the new engine installed I can move on and let you guys worry yourself to death about your ticking engines. lol
But myself and others have told you not to worry so much. I am paranoid of the the D2 and it's faults as it is but these trucks can run with a tick.
Hell I ran into a guy with 4 D2's yesterday. All have ticks. 2 of which have the oil light on intermittently. And he's still drives the hell out of it.
That said. Don't assume this new engine will be perfect forever. Even guys with new blocks with upgrades run into trouble. Sounds like it is fool proof for the most part.
If any of your cooling system is relatively new I would just do a swap. You may want to change your heater core when you have the motor out. I suggest doing that one yourself because it is a costly penny for a shop to do it.
Last edited by DiscoRover007; Jun 24, 2015 at 10:47 AM.
So you'll be into this engine for $6321? Wow. I would have ran the existing engine up there. You can't go through life worrying about sh*t breaking. Dropping that much coin won't guarantee anything, especially from an overseas company.
You can "gas-flow" your own heads by tracing the inside of the head gaskets onto the head. Then taking a file or dremel and opening up the ports. I know a couple guys that have done that.
You can "gas-flow" your own heads by tracing the inside of the head gaskets onto the head. Then taking a file or dremel and opening up the ports. I know a couple guys that have done that.
holy cow, think I have 2k or less in mine and its all new except cam, cam bearings, lifters and freeze plugs
And included buying 4.6 crank and rods, having them reconditioned and pressing the pistons and valve job
And included buying 4.6 crank and rods, having them reconditioned and pressing the pistons and valve job
Thanks guys and I hear you. I attended the Maine Winter Romp event this past year and had a bunch of guys get on my *** because of my ticking engine. I guess some people are less familiar with the problems associated with these engines than others. Honestly Im stick to death of the constant fear of an engine failure and the ever present notion that one day Ill have to replace or rebuild my engine. I just want to get it done and over with once and for all so I can enjoy this truck. I also love fast food and anyone with a engine tick will understand where im going here......
While I was back in NH working a typical manufacturing job making **** for money, I struggled to keep my truck up to spec. When my alternator **** the bed I had the hardest time finding a replacement because I could not afford a new replacement at the time. But all that has changed since I returned to AK. Im making alot more money and my truck gets to take a nice break from driving while i get all the parts needed.
That said yes there is a reasonable possibility that my original engine would make the long drive to AK but.... what if it does not? I cant even imagine how I would get out of a mess like that should me engine fail while im in the middle of British Columbia.
Although I have a long list put together of all the parts Ill be purchasing for my truck, a heater core is not in the list. I still have a budget and limited time. My mechanic will be doing the majority of work to my truck so the labor will quickly add up. Total estimated cost for ALL the parts Im buying for my truck is around $10,500 not counting labor. She will be almost new again before we embark on our big trip together. Peace of mind will be restored.
While I was back in NH working a typical manufacturing job making **** for money, I struggled to keep my truck up to spec. When my alternator **** the bed I had the hardest time finding a replacement because I could not afford a new replacement at the time. But all that has changed since I returned to AK. Im making alot more money and my truck gets to take a nice break from driving while i get all the parts needed.
That said yes there is a reasonable possibility that my original engine would make the long drive to AK but.... what if it does not? I cant even imagine how I would get out of a mess like that should me engine fail while im in the middle of British Columbia.
Although I have a long list put together of all the parts Ill be purchasing for my truck, a heater core is not in the list. I still have a budget and limited time. My mechanic will be doing the majority of work to my truck so the labor will quickly add up. Total estimated cost for ALL the parts Im buying for my truck is around $10,500 not counting labor. She will be almost new again before we embark on our big trip together. Peace of mind will be restored.


