Operation Magpie.
 

Well, here we go!

Just picked up this 01' with CDL for $2400 and a ton of aftermarket / extras. 123k on the clock, full service records and window sticker. No rust other than some small surface bits on the underside. Has potential HG issues and the shocks need to be rebuilt but I'll get into that more later.

This was the main reason for the low cost of this truck..

List of mods currently installed:

3"+ lift with springs and Bilstein 7100's
3" catback exhaust
16" steal wheels with big rubber
Rear steal bumper with trailer hookups
Front stock bumper that has been cut down for clearance
Ceramic brakes discs / pads (i don't think the rotors are ceramic..)
CB radio (already been removed!)
SS brake lines

Extras:

New 130amp Alternator
New uninstalled plug wires (Magnicore)
Bull bar with lights (previously installed but the mounts are apparently wonky so seller took it off)
1/2 of AB cooling hose kit (didn't get around to installed the lower hoses but did the upper ones)
Tons of extra fluids (coolant, gear and motor -- AND Bilstein shock oil)
Extra lugs and light bulbs
Fancy shmancy tire pressure gauge and plug kit
Extended ABS lines

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ISSUES:

Seller claimed that he was driving home from work and the temp gauge shot up and went to the red. Pulled over, truck cooled down and then he drive the remaining 2 miles home going 10mph or something. He could smell Dexol from the tail pipe, nothing leaking from engine externally. Oil is free of coolant and coolant is clean. He bought a Duraseal kit which is like a liquid gasket dealio, he installed in freezing temps and isn't sure if it "took". I think i'm just going to go ahead and do the HG but need to check the plugs and verify. When i was initially check out the truck it was idling for close to an hour -- not smoke out the tail pipe or any coolant smell. Plugged in my OBD scanner and truck was sitting right at 195.

Windshield is cracked but out of view.

The shocks are dead. No rebound or anything at all, the truck is basically sitting on the springs. Not sure what i'm going to do about this, I'll probably go ahead and order a new set of TF HD shocks for the mean time and get the Bilstein 7100's rebuilt at some point later.

Codes were pulled and are below (off the top of my head, will update later)

Bank 1 Primary 1 O2 sensor
Shuttle valve

Headliner is saggy and ebrake boot is rubbish.

MY GOALS:

Clean the truck up really good, it just needs a lot of love! I'm debating on swapping out the whole suspension for a 2" lift kit as some thing as aggressive (height wise) is something that is new to my wife and I. Also debating doing the HG by myself which I am not afraid of doing -- Done a few VW's and Audis over the years so i get the idea. Found a local fellow who can do the job for $800 which I know is a steal.

I currently take public transportation to school so this truck will not be daily driven which is good -- Really the wife and I want to go camping a LOT more this year but either of our Volvos are really up for the task.. Hence the purchase of this truck! My family had one back on 01 as a lease vehicle and had an incredibly positive experience with it.. I have always wanted one since.

Looks like waiting paid off.
I'de call that one a good deal.
As for head gaskets, do it yourself.
You will be amazed at how easy these things are to work on.
Lucky8 for best part prices.
Put a radiant barrier above the headliner(4'×10' roll is $25 on ebay).
You may need smaller tires if you go to a 2" lift.
They fronts may drag when turning without the 3".
Congrats!

Well.. Pulled the plugs and they are all DIRTY which could mean things might be ok! Upon further inspection, looks like the TB cooling lines were rigged :dunno: The line off the top of the cap is cut and just hanging out and the return line from the the TB is epoxyied to the under side of the coolant overflow tank.

Perhaps the truck did over heat but rather spewed out coolant from the cut line onto the manifold? :dunno:

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Attachment 55854

Looks like you scored a pretty nice start. Kind of wonder why the previous owner mounted the shock reservoir in the engine compartment, would think engine temps would affect them some. Not sure, but most l've seen are mounted in wheel well area. Anyhow, rig looks like a good jumping in point, plenty to work with for an off-road/camping rig.

Congrats, on the new acquistion.

Brian.

Why did you take the CB out?

Brian.

I ran the reservoirs on my 7100 under the hood for years no issue.

I would have left the Cb as well they're handy. I'm adding one to the lr3 soon.

I dunno, i feel like the placement wasn't the best and.. I don't use a CB for anything. I'd rather get a hand held unit or something i guess but then again i have no idea what i'm talkin about. Its a Cobra unit, those any good?

Cobra generally is decent. If you start doing off road events the Cb is fantastic for vehicle to vehicle communication. Frequently cell phones don't work in these areas

Bosch Plugs bleh

Attachment 55848

Don't know what this extension cord is doin in the engine bay but.. it runs all the way to the back of the truck :dunno:

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Had a TON of fun yesterday doing the plug wires because of example A below.

Attachment 55851

Since i wasn't planning on doing the plug wires for a few days, I had to replace them without taking the IM off which certainly proved to be difficult. I think doing this process would be a zillion times easier if that stupid SAI crossover tube wasn't there. F-ck my life it was annoying to get the stupid bracket out in order to get the tube out. Bleh. I got really good any playing superman and jumping up and laying on top of the motor which was fun but managed to break the passenger side valve cover vent tube where it connects with the IM. Oh well.

Also find some old brittle rubber bits for the vac system so need to get some bits to fix that...

I am assuming this is not factory wiring?

Attachment 55852

BTW -- my lovely Wife coined the name Magpie. I had asked her for help naming the Disco since I didn't want to do the StormTrooper or some other BS. Magpies are handsome birds that are real assholes -- a perfect fit for these trucks i think :)

Attachment 55847

Example of Assholeness.

You would be correct that is not factory wiring

Thats what I figured... Must be some sort of wiring for the lights that are currently in the "trunk" but the factory fog light wiring is also present :dunno:

Can't wait to dive into the electrical part of this project :rolleyes:

Well, apparently i am an idiot and no one said anything!

Reviewing how the TB heater dealio is setup, it would appear that mine is hooked up correctly. What is the purpose of the cut off hose that stems off the expansion tank that goes to.. no where?

:dunno:

It's the overflow tube. If, or when would be more proper, it overheats...fluid goes down the tube, towards the ground...instead of spraying all over the engine. Figured you'd figure it wasn't what you thought it was, just giving you a chance to get your head wrapped around this thing.

Noticed you were having issues with the sparkplug in another topic. When removing, it's better to do one plug at a time. That way, you can mirror the angle of the socket/extension when replacing. Plus, lube them after you have broken them free (WD40)...let it soak for a moment...then finish removing. This let's the threads get lubricant on the thread and you're not turning dry/cruddy threads against the softer aluminum head threads. Lube the new plugs threads before installing, too (WD40).

Also, when purchasing a battery...get the biggest, baddest monster you can find. Especially, if you ever plan on running a lot of accesories.

Brian.

Thanks Brian!

Yeah, I guess i wanted to pull all the plugs at once to see if any of them were cleaner than the others -- I am still not convinced the HG is bad on this truck but we'll see.

Of the new plugs that went in, i used anti-seize so getting these out in another several thousand miles should be easier.

I am a fan of anti-seize as well on the plugs.

Well, thought i could purchase a 14mm back tap tool but no one has it -- Amazon here i come. Picked up a battery from Napa, 72mo warranty and 850CCA which should be fine for my needs.

Just glued the face plate on to the coil holder tray but the spring anchor in the assembly is busted, so gotta figure out a way to get that sorted.

Also noticed that the ashtray has been removed in favor of a 3 switch pod that has 2 switches and a blank. Fog light and cruise control switch? Hmm.. No wiring behind them sooo i guess i can wire them up for something later down the line.

:dunno:

Nice Pick up! Fun to follow a new build!


Congrats

Coin/Cigarette tray fix = a zip tie. Drill a hole, loop the zip tie around the spring and bingo tray’s will pop in/out properly.

I had a thought in the middle of the night about this overheating situation that the PO encountered. He was running (and the truck still has) Dexcool in the system and I'm wondering if the t-stat maybe got stuck open or something. When i asked him questions about the truck, he knew almost everything that had been replaced but he never mentioned the replacement of the actual t-stat itself.

Since he added this duraseal **** to the coolant system, i'm a little hesitant to drain / flush the system since i haven't confirmed if the HG's are actually bad. Obviously if they are toast, everything will be flushed and normal green coolant will be replaced.

I am frustrated with this stupid spark plug **** because its holding me up from doing anything else to the truck other than cleaning etc -- its driving me mad. Should get the back tap today but got a few things planned for the next few days so probably can't even look at the truck until monday which is also annoying.

Bleh.

/rant

Oh ya, where would be a good place to find wiring pigtails? I have a few OEM switches in the center console area that aren't connected to anything but would like to use them in the future..

Success!

Got the back tap today, worked like a charm. Didn't really pull anything out of the threads but finally got the plug in.. Now just need to do the other 4 :(

Oh and of course, the PO's wonderful epoxy job on the coolant overflow tank decided to give -- caught about a mason jar's worth of coolant. Looked clean and didn't smell like anything other than.. Coolant :dunno:

Hooray.

Got all the plugs in and wires in place. WAS looking forward to starting the truck up and moving it over a few parking spaces so that it is more in front of my apt. Naturally, as soon as I went to hook up the new battery, the car alarm went off. AND naturally, the battery in the key fob is dead so NATURALLY I can't do ****.

Also found a local fella who is parting out a Disco, so getting a ton of used parts which is nice.

You need to buy or borrow a Hawkeye or Nanocom, and turn the alarm off in the ecu.
Save alot of future headaches.

Can't you just insert the key in the drivers door and turn it twice to the right (right, center, right, center)...and stop the alarm? This is what I do on mine (01), haven't used the key-fob key since I bought it. I believe, l've even done this a couple times on my wife's 03.

Brian.

Also, go to User CP in the banner above and add a signature line with your year and model. Helps us remember what we're working on...without going back to the first post.

All the cool guys do it.

Brian.

Hmmm... Is that better?

Anyways, had the Wifey help me out -- As soon as you would connect the battery, the horn/alarm would sound. Had her at the drivers door to unlock right when i would connect the pos terminal, alarm disabled :)

Truck won't start though so I gotta fiddle with that tomorrow, hoping its just the inertia switch on the firewall or the 1515 dealio :dunno:

Yes, and now consider yourself one of the "cool guys"...lol

Yay!!

Did this today.. #fixed.

P1668 :mad:

Failure to Start - "Passive Immobilization" Enabled

AFFECTED VEHICLE RANGE:

Discovery Series II (LT) All

SITUATION:

VEHICLE MAY NOT CRANK AFTER BEING UNLOCKED

The customer may complain that occasionally the vehicle will not crank. This may be because the Non-NAS Passive Immobilization feature has been accidentally turned on in production or during repair operations.

If Passive Immobilization is enabled, the vehicle will immobilize itself if the ignition key is not turned to position "II" or the engine is not started within 30 seconds of unlocking the vehicle. With the ignition key in position "II", the vehicle will show that it is in the immobilized state by illuminating the alarm LED continuously. The engine will not crank if the ignition key is turned in an attempt to start the engine.

RESOLUTION:

REPLACE BCU WITH NEW OR RE-PROGRAMMED UNIT

To turn off the Passive Immobilization feature, replace the BCU with a new unit ensuring that the proper installation procedure is followed. Alternatively, after contacting the LRNA HelpLine send the original BCU to Land Rover to be re-programmed and install the re-programmed unit ensuring that the proper installation procedure is followed.

PARTS INFORMATION:

YWC000310 BCU

WARRANTY CLAIMS:

86.55.75 Time 0.50 hrs.
Install new or re-programmed BCU

FAULT CODE: A

Normal warranty policy and procedures apply

REPAIR PROCEDURE

SYMPTOM VERIFICATION OF ACTIVATED PASSIVE IMMOBILIZATION

1. Unlock the vehicle and wait one minute.

2. With the ignition off, verify that the anti-theft alarm LED in the instrument pack blinks slowly.

3. Turn the ignition key to position "II" and verify the alarm LED is on continuously. This indicates an immobilized condition.

4. Check that Passive Immobilization is on by attempting to start the vehicle with the LED on continuously.

5. If the vehicle does not start, confirm that Passive Immobilization is turned on as follows:

^ Turn off ignition and remove the key.

^ Press the unlock button on the plip once.

^ Attempt to restart the vehicle within 30 seconds.

^ If the vehicle starts normally, Passive Immobilization is activated. The BCU must be replaced or reprogrammed by Land Rover after contacting the LRNA HelpLine.



TESTBOOK VERIFICATION OF ACTIVATED "PASSIVE IMMOBILIZATION"

NOTE: The Bosch Engine Management ECU may flag a P1668 Fault Code if an attempt to start the vehicle is made when Passive Immobilization is activated. This will only be evident by interrogating the Bosch Engine Management ECU with TestBook. The fault will not turn on the Check Engine (MIL) lamp.

1. Using TestBook, verify Passive Immobilization is enabled as follows:

^ Select Vehicle Configuration.

^ Select Dealer Configuration.

^ Select "CLASS" (Corporate Locking and Alarm Security Strategy).

^ Note the status of Passive Immobilization.


2. If Passive Immobilization shows "Disabled" the setting is correct for North American vehicles and the no-start/no-crank condition has another cause.

3. If Passive Immobilization shows "Enabled" the BCU must be replaced to provide the customer with the standard North American configuration. Two options are available:

^ Return BCU to Land Rover for reprogramming and install the reprogrammed BCU with proper menu selections.

^ Install a new BCU from parts inventory and install with proper menu selections as outlined in TIB 86/03/01/NAS.


4. Call the Land Rover Technical HelpLine for approval before you replace a BCU or ship a BCU to Land Rover.


OPTION 1: RE-PROGRAM EXISTING BCU TO TURN OFF PASSIVE IMMOBILIZATION

NOTE: Because the "Passive Immobilization" is a security-related feature, there is no way to turn off this feature with TestBook. Land Rover has the ability to perform this function using special software. Land Rover will FedEx the BCU back to the retailer on the day received.

1. Verify that the ignition switch is in the OFF position.

CAUTION: The negative cable removal must be performed within 30 seconds of pressing the plip button.

2. Perform the following steps within 30 seconds:

^ Press the unlock button on the plip.

^ Immediately remove the negative battery cable from the battery.


3. Refer to the Workshop Manual and remove the BCU from the vehicle.

4. Send the BCU via FedEx to Land Rover North America Inc. for reprogramming and return.

5. Refer to the Workshop Manual and install the re-programmed BCU.


OPTION 2: INSTALL NEW BCU TO TURN OFF PASSIVE IMMOBILIZATION

CAUTION: When installing a new BCU, the default is "Passive Armed." Failing to follow the BCU installation/replacement process correctly could cause Passive Immobilization to be turned on again.

1. Refer to the Workshop Manual and install a new BCU.

2. Refer to TIB 86/03/01/NAS and follow the installation/replacement procedure carefully to ensure that the BCU is installed correctly and that "Passive" is turned OFF.
__________________

Made some notes in red..

Also don't have Testbook so can't do it that way..

Tried unplugging the ground for several hours and nothing changed. :dunno:

I also replaced the door pin with the fancy one from Abran :wave:

Just got off the phone with Eric from Lucky8 -- Placed and order for some TF Pro Sport shocks. I had found a sticker on one of the springs currently installed, Eric helped me figure out that I have apparently a set of D1 OME 2" springs which gives me a 3" or more lift :dunno:

Also got a new expansion tank and cap!

Still havent gotten MagPie to work -- waiting on a CPS from Napa..

Love the Magpie, one of my favourite birds. Nothing like the warble of a magpie in the morning.

Holy crap! This stuff came incredibly fast!

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Also got the coolant expansion tank and a new CPS.. Got some wrenching to do tomorrow :disco:

Huge thanks to Eric @ Lucky8 for all the help!