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Old Nov 30, 2018 | 10:43 PM
  #461  
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Yeah, thats probably what i'll do. Havent been doing much driving lately and when i do its no higher than 35mph so it's fine. Gonna remove the shaft tomorrow AM and hopefully get it all wrapped up by Sunday night.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2018 | 12:53 PM
  #462  
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Well.. finally got a chance to get under MagPie and get the ball rolling this AM. To my horror, all 4 bolts where the shaft connects to the t-case were loose. I dont know how i didn't notice that before but.. they were. Tightened them all up and went for a drive on the fwy really quick -- things are much much improved but i feel like i can still feel a slight rumble at hwy speeds.

Probably going to rebuild the shaft anyways but i feel like such a dufus
 
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Old Dec 1, 2018 | 01:41 PM
  #463  
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when you pull it down make sure to check the flange to make sure its not damaged
 
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Old Dec 2, 2018 | 10:58 PM
  #464  
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Well, the bolts weren't the problem lol

Took a lot longer to get the shaft out than i thought -- the 4 bolts at the diff were just mangled from the PO i guess. I was relieved to get it all off.. Using the ball joint tool kit wasn't bad at all, but it was annoying to use on this particular shaft since the edges of the joints aren't flat. Got everything a part except for the center yoke part which is the end that bolts to the t-case. I dont know what the f-ck happened but everything is all jammed up and i can't get it apart It appeared to me that the front u-joint was the cause of my troubles -- you can see in the pic how one of the splines is a different color than the others. I greased the crap outta that joint and looks like that one side never got the red stuff

Spent a good couple of hours today wrestling with it and gonna take it to a shop tomorrow to have them deal with it and put it all back together -- I have been defeated.

On a side note -- driving around just in RWD is kinda fun, MagPie feels a lot more peppy! Within 3 mins of driving the TC / ABS light came on but I'm sure that probably has to do with the front shaft being gone aka wheel speed stuff is all messed up or something

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Old Dec 4, 2018 | 06:21 AM
  #465  
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Went to a local driveshaft place yesterday and turns out they were closed due to a fire which stinks -- Went to option B driveshaft shop. They wanted $325 to rebuild the shaft with my parts even though it was basically completely taken apart Their other option was a complete new shaft which was.. $325 I literally looked the guy in the face and was like "I can literally just buy a new shaft from a LR specific vendor for less than half that." We chatted a bit more and i then asked what it would cost just to take apart the part i couldnt finish taking apart -- he wasn't sure so he went to go ask the boss / owner. He came back and told me that it'll be $150 and that it takes about 2 hours just to take things apart.

Oi vey.

Walked out of there with all my parts and went on my way. As i was leaving he asked if Land Rover was a Swedish make.



I have a few other tricks up my sleeve for this which i shall be figuring out in the coming days. Pulled the code for the ABS light and apparently my shuttle valve took a crap. TC light is just on (couldn't find a code associated with it) so i'm just assuming its a different wheel speed thing?
 
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 09:11 AM
  #466  
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Originally Posted by Saturnine
Went to a local driveshaft place yesterday and turns out they were closed due to a fire which stinks -- Went to option B driveshaft shop. They wanted $325 to rebuild the shaft with my parts even though it was basically completely taken apart Their other option was a complete new shaft which was.. $325 I literally looked the guy in the face and was like "I can literally just buy a new shaft from a LR specific vendor for less than half that." We chatted a bit more and i then asked what it would cost just to take apart the part i couldnt finish taking apart -- he wasn't sure so he went to go ask the boss / owner. He came back and told me that it'll be $150 and that it takes about 2 hours just to take things apart.

Oi vey.

Walked out of there with all my parts and went on my way. As i was leaving he asked if Land Rover was a Swedish make.



I have a few other tricks up my sleeve for this which i shall be figuring out in the coming days. Pulled the code for the ABS light and apparently my shuttle valve took a crap. TC light is just on (couldn't find a code associated with it) so i'm just assuming its a different wheel speed thing?
I think, would guess anyway, that all the lights go with the shuttle valve failure. I recommend the Falconwerks kit as you get the new seals for the shuttle valve.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 12:19 PM
  #467  
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Thanks for the rec -- gotta figure out if the SVS is even bad first though Might only have to do Opt. B which would be rad!

Still driving around without the front shaft installed -- Probably just going to order the L8 front shaft, hopefully my truck being as lifted it is it'll work just fine.

 
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Old Dec 18, 2018 | 08:22 PM
  #468  
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All those faults would come on when I was driving my D2 in hot rod mode with the front shaft
 
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Old Dec 18, 2018 | 10:18 PM
  #469  
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Nice. Haven't really had any issues with MagPie in Hotrod mode To bad it isn't snowing or something!

Went to the JY today looking for the rubber trim piece under the A pillar exterior trim and found that and several cruise control switches w/tails. Also found a "white rodgers 70-111224-5" which is a DC power solenoid. Don't know a whole lot of how these things work other than a blip in a Roadkill episode but i did remove it from a D2
 
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Old Dec 19, 2018 | 07:46 AM
  #470  
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Was thinking of doing a JY run myself today to see what I could find
 
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