I am not sure you need the clips on the injectors probly just for assembly line use

 

Got some work done today.....finally.
Got the truck entirely up on jack stands. Trailing arms, driveshaft, dust shields, springs and shocks all removed from the rear. The damn ball joint is being a royal pain. I decided to cut it and move the axle out of the way.

 

I found I needed a special goose neck box wrench for that

 

I actually have the proper wrench. Problem is the thing is pretty well seized up. I cut it hoping I could just knock it through but I'm wondering if my thinking is flawed as there might be a taper??? I'll have to work on getting the nut off.

 

Iirc it is a standard type ball joint and is tapered, think there's a pic in my thread

 

That would explain why I couldn't pound it through. Doh!!!
Sometimes it pays to take a step back and think about things.

 

Christmas is September!!!!
66" of 2" x .25" wall DOM for trailing arms.
2 LHT and 2 RHT hex 1.25" thread x 1.5" ID tube adapters and jam nuts.
4' and 3' of 1.5" x .25" wall DOM for steering rods.
And 24" x 48" of 18ga sheet steel for floor repairs(not pictured)
If only the welder I had my eye on didn't just sell out. Ugh, that could set me back another $300. ��

 

Hey when did you get the adapter I ordered mine first

On the ball joint you talking bout where it goes in the diff or the upper A Arm?

 

Those are the adapters for the trailing arms, not for the steering. Got them from RuffStuff. Still waiting on my Rover specific adapters from Summit.

I cut the ball joint so I could move the axle assembly out.
Yes, it's tapered. I just went out and the PB Blaster and heat I used yesterday must have worked because the big nut turned right off. I used a 1 3/16 box end wrench.
Sooooo happy that didn't turn out to be a giant hassle.

 

Your gonna have a blast changing the other end of the ball joint, I did, lots of heat and shop press