I have reason to believe my intake air temperature sensor is going bad. I'm not paying $100-150 for a new one for what is a probably a $0.25 thermistor in a $149.75 housing. With your help, I will create a how-to to fix these sensors for cheap.

I need help identifying the type of thermistor used in these sensors. To do that we need to identify the resistance of the sensor at given temperatures. Here's what to do:

Unscrew sensor from intake air box
Record temperature of sensor using thermometer
Record resistance of sensor using digital multimeter

If someone is able to measure the resistance at exactly 25 C (77 F), that would be particularly helpful. 0 C and 100C are also helpful.

Thanks.

 

$12 at rock auto, bet boneyard or Paul Grant could also help.

Attached document shows values for the GEMS IAT sensor. I tore mine up twisting on it, and got another from boneyard.

 

873 ohms at 124F. Pulled air box lid off, truck is just back from a short drive. Have air box lid in fridge and will post update. If you found another sensor (another common vehicle) with right ohms, just bolt thru new hole in plastic air box, splice to cable.

 

1414 at 75 F, sorry, let it cool too long.

 

Thanks Buzz! Unfortunately the 12$ one is a completely different sensor. It's listed as being for the euro market, probably the diesel, or maybe the 10CUX.

 

Does the IAT value in the scanner not match real life? Ambient at startup, 120 ish while driving (non snorkle).

 

Well I know what I'll be adding to my partz vulturez treasure trove next trip to the boneyard... right next to my spare MAF, ECU, etc.

As a work around to get your rolling a 820 ohm (Radio Scrap) should be close for moderate conditions. RAVE says it retards timing above 55 C, and falls back to a default value if failed. So I don't know if scanner would show changing values (real sensor) or fixed value (sensor with Elvis).

 

Along those lines, it appears that MEK500130, ETC8496, and MEK000030L look to have the same connector, maybe the same thread, and are 15-20$ new from AB. If I had those parts laying around I'd try them out.

 

Recently I noticed the IAT read 98 F while the engine read 73 F (about ambient temperature that day). I opened the hood and found no reason the IAT should be any warmer.

As you know I've been struggling with mysterious misfire codes that I've observed are highly correlated with temperature, but I could never figure out how. The IAT values never seemed unrealistic, but now I suspect it's off just enough to be responsible.

 

Sun light on hood? One would think that IAT would respond quicker than ECT stuck in an engine block.... Would think you could unplug or sub another resistor, drive and see if misfires keep coming. But on cold start my IAT and ECT are very close.