[HELP] Center Differential Lock
#31
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
Posts: 5,584
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The one thing that stands out in my memory is that when mine did "break loose" I was actually attempting to loosen that center nut on the selector plate with the link still attached. I had a 1/2 drive speedhandle and extensions with the socket squarely seated on the 13mm nut, when I overcame the resistance, instead of the nut turning, the top portion of the cdl shifter lurched from the unlocked position and struck my leg as it moved unexpectedly to the locked position!
Afterwards I did replace the switch due to a frozen plunger. This completed the repair/fix and returned complete as designed functionality.
The entire mechanism was filthy with off-road mud residue and corrosion binding it up. All of these things contributed to the "frozen" inoperable condition. A thorough cleaning, replacement of the small pieces that were degraded, and application of the Lucas waterproof synthetic Heavy Duty Tractor grease restored the functionality.
It is a poor design that allows all the crud to affect such a vital system. I added an additional item over the top box using a common plumbing roofing vent seal over the top to help shed any water or other contaminants from ending up in the mechanism.
If anyone can add any further information, please do.
I really enjoy the way mine works so well 4 and 1/2 years later.
Afterwards I did replace the switch due to a frozen plunger. This completed the repair/fix and returned complete as designed functionality.
The entire mechanism was filthy with off-road mud residue and corrosion binding it up. All of these things contributed to the "frozen" inoperable condition. A thorough cleaning, replacement of the small pieces that were degraded, and application of the Lucas waterproof synthetic Heavy Duty Tractor grease restored the functionality.
It is a poor design that allows all the crud to affect such a vital system. I added an additional item over the top box using a common plumbing roofing vent seal over the top to help shed any water or other contaminants from ending up in the mechanism.
If anyone can add any further information, please do.
I really enjoy the way mine works so well 4 and 1/2 years later.
Last edited by Danny Lee 97 Disco; 04-25-2012 at 08:04 PM.
#32
#33
Here is the diagram from Rover's North. The blue circle indicates the pivot point. Given the connection to the nut in question is forward of that nut, I'd say that clockwise from the top will lock the CDL. I've never been in there so I can't say from first hand experience as Danny is able, but that is how I'd read this diagram.
Your CDL switch is highlighted in green and goes where the large green arrow points.
I've circled (in red) the CDL switch in your picture.
Your CDL switch is highlighted in green and goes where the large green arrow points.
I've circled (in red) the CDL switch in your picture.
#34
#35
Here is the diagram from Rover's North. The blue circle indicates the pivot point. Given the connection to the nut in question is forward of that nut, I'd say that clockwise from the top will lock the CDL. I've never been in there so I can't say from first hand experience as Danny is able, but that is how I'd read this diagram.
Your CDL switch is highlighted in green and goes where the large green arrow points.
I've circled (in red) the CDL switch in your picture.
Your CDL switch is highlighted in green and goes where the large green arrow points.
I've circled (in red) the CDL switch in your picture.
I just went into mine last night cause it was completely frozen in 4H-unlocked. I couldnt get the CDL arm off cause the pins were totally rusted in there. However, unbolting the box and removing the clamp on the gear gave me enough play to get it unstuck along with alot of PB-ing.
Moving the stick left, which moves the wheel clockwise, makes the diff light go on. Moving right makes it turn off.
Now I just have to charge my battery so I can start the car and see if I can get into 4L
#36
#38
Cut an "access hole."
[FOR DANNY] The Dimensions are 5" x 4" (3.5" actual)
Took off the shifter
Before I cleaned out that gunk with a degreaser
Does that pin holding this eye-hole come out somehow?
Now the shifter, linkage, all the nuts and screws and washers are all sitting in a bucket of rustoleum for de-rustification. Will report back later. My main thing now is the shifter won't move to the left all the way. Can somebody post a video of how far it's supposed to move?
Oh yeah, here's the shifter
Normal View as If you Just pulled it out
Under View
Close up of the under view
These are pics before the rustoleum.
[FOR DANNY] The Dimensions are 5" x 4" (3.5" actual)
Took off the shifter
Before I cleaned out that gunk with a degreaser
Does that pin holding this eye-hole come out somehow?
Now the shifter, linkage, all the nuts and screws and washers are all sitting in a bucket of rustoleum for de-rustification. Will report back later. My main thing now is the shifter won't move to the left all the way. Can somebody post a video of how far it's supposed to move?
Oh yeah, here's the shifter
Normal View as If you Just pulled it out
Under View
Close up of the under view
These are pics before the rustoleum.
#39
Now the shifter linkage, all the nuts and screws and washers are all sitting in a bucket of rustoleum for de-rustification. Will report back later. My main thing now is the shifter won't move to the left all the way. Can somebody post a video of how far it's supposed to move?
#40
Yeah that's what i noticed but I wasn't sure if mine was screwed up or something. Danny said it's supposed to move like 6 inches..
I made a video of me moving my shifter and I'll post it once it uploads on Youtube so you guys can tell for yourselves if my shifter is jacked up.
I made a video of me moving my shifter and I'll post it once it uploads on Youtube so you guys can tell for yourselves if my shifter is jacked up.
Last edited by calebbo; 04-25-2012 at 09:10 PM.