I have a complete series of pics in the link on my sig of the top section alone then advancing to the linkage. I pulled my linkage up and used a couple of pairs of ZVice Grips to suspend it so I could get a punch on the top clevis pin. After some gentle persuasion with a ball peen, the pin surrendered to the feeling and set into squeeling.

Replacing all the pins and their retaining clips along with the complete packing of that top box with Lucas Red took care of those aspects. Once I got the bottom nut to move, it was all good.

When those linkages are that severely degraded, it is a combination of things that add up to poor shifting. While you are in there, do not seal it up until you get it all pretty smooth. But at least with the access hole, that makes going back in the spray some lube no problem either.

I got a few pieces cut down to make up a hinged cover for when you need it.

 

This shifter business is retarded, why can't things just work and people finish what they started! GAH! I'll feel much better once this is done, slight set back but it's not a huge project haha.

I'll find the correct bolts, now question. I only have 2 of the 4 bolts that hold the shifter down in place. I can use one of the 2 to find the correct thread and strength but the upper left top bolt (when viewed from sitting in the drivers seat [Left Side American Driver]) but is that one longer?

I will continue the PB Blaster/WD-40 treatment of soak and whack. If it doesn't work after the next few days I will just buy a new shifter. It's just not worth a week+ of headache.

And how much do I owe you for the shipping and stuff Danny? Thanks for making me a door!

 

Yeah, that upper left one is a completely different bolt. It is longer and I think has a smaller hex size too.

 

On the topic of hole cutting, depending on the size and shape/utility of the desired hole, for round holes, a relatively powerful drill motor(depending on hole size, above 3", you need a big, rt angle drill motor, for power and control...)and a set of hole saws. For square or rectangular holes, use a sharpie to draw the proposed opening, at 3/16" in from each corner, at 45 degrees, use a punch to center a 3/8" drill bit and make a hole. If done right, the 3/8" hole will be tangent to the lines you drew for the opening. Then, use a jig saw and connect the 3/8" holes, deburr and you gotta an opening, that's clean and looks like you meant it. A sawsall works too...but you need more/bigger pilot holes and it's a bit more of a wild ride.
I like the cover flush, so, I cut out a bezel from a piece of 14ga sheet metal that overlaps the opening about 3/8" each way. Get a piece of 1/16" neoprene rubber the same size. Pop rivet into place, leaving a 3/8" flange to attach the cover to, with a built in gasket. Shoot small holes along the interior flange to accomodate either a machine or sheet metal screw. How **** you are will determine machine thread or sheet metal screws, and how many...

A degree of forming maybe required for the cover to fit nicely. A block of wood, a vise and a 28oz hammer are frequently all that is required for this operation. And patience...bend slowly and work your way to the desired shape. We could go way off into shaping, but for the hole you've already cut, I'd claen it up with a 4" grinder/ diegrinder/ dremel and a couple of files, rat tail and flat...
Paint the bezel and the cover with rustoleum, several coats, color of your choice...

I like oval, socket head SS machine screws...a drop of locktite is a good thing. With either screw: do Not over tighten. Spot the pop rivet haeds with silicone...I use 3/16" SS rivets.
AbraCadabra, you're done. Oh, 1 more thing, drill the covet 3/16" in the desired number of locations and use it for a template for the flange...Afterwards enlarge the holes to accommodate the screws. I shoot the corners 1st, inserting screws as I go, then the remaining holes... OK, NOW it's AbraCadabra Time>>> Lot of words for a simple operation...

 

Do you happen to know the size? I don't have anything to take to my local hardware store so they can match it up. Is there any other way I can find the correct size without paying $3 from Rovers North plus shipping..

That sounds really confusing haha but I think I understand.

If you want a circle hole: use hole saws.

If you want a square or rectangle hole: mark the area out with a sharpie and use a hole saw on the 4 corners so that the circle saw contacts the edges (aka tangent). Then use a jig saw or something to cut and connect the holes which is actually the edge of the outline you drew. Then cut out the little triangle pieces left over because a circle cannot completely fit into the 4 corners.

For a seal you used 14 gauge sheet metal and cut it so it overlaps the hole by 3/8" on each side. Then you got your neoprene rubber (or you could use a rubber hose and slit one side and use it as an edge cover/seal [Thank you DANNYLEEDISCO]) Form if necessary (not really sure how to but I imagine just whack it in place until all the edges are flush with the original sheet metal flooring). And pop rivet the sheet metal with seal to the floor.

Can you elaborate on the hammer, wood block, and vise idea? I don't really form metal at all and have no clue. Like I said my idea was to just put the sheet metal on the floor and if I encountered curves (which I don't really besides the bottom) then whack slowly until all the edges were flush.

 

Sorry, no. Im at work and wont be home for like 6 hours.

 

I called rovers North and they said all 4 bolts are the same

6mm x 20mm
M6 Blange bolt

Now I'm confused..

 

That doesnt make sense.

For the 3 that are alike on mine, I used a 13mm socket. I think that upper left one used a 10mm socket.

Maybe they thought you were asking about the screws for the cover?

 

Caleb,

I have a couple of appointments this afternoon.

I already have a couple of pieces roughed out for you to try out.

Your cost will depend on the size of the USPS flate rate box plus the cost of the Beer. Red Dog in the Bottle is pretty cheap, but I may snag Molsen's instead!

My prototype worked out well. I will do a finished one for you and and throw in some extra piano hinge and enough material for you play with doing a couple more if you have any other ones you want to do.

 

That's what I said and I asked him again to verify and he kept saying that was it. Instead of arguing with a monkey I'm going to take my two bolts to the store get replacements for all 3 and find a longer one to use for that last hole. I need to take my shifter back off and see if the older bolts will thread in first though.

Here's a better video with me showing you guys my shifter.
23741351 1 - YouTube


Haha Danny you crack me up, just let me know how much your beer is