X2 on that one!! Do not change anything on the intake yet.

The differentials are the bulges on the front and rear axles. There is a fill plug and drain plug on each. Take the fill plug out first, then drain. Replace drain and fill with 2 quarts on synthetic gear oil. It calls for 90W, but anything from 75W90 to 95W140 will work. The heavier oil will reduce driveline slap. The transfer case is the box right behind the transmission. It has the round thingy on the back that goes to the rear drive shaft. Check Rave for the plug locations. You will need an oil pump to get oil up into this one, but still just 2 quarts and same weight.

Check the tech sticky for the major service and see what fluids you are looking at.

PS- the power steering takes Dexron III transmission fluid. NOT power steering fluid.

Get the basics handled before you start adding performance stuff....

 

You are right, I just impulse bought it because 12 MPG is not that great. But I love it anyways! haha I will return it, no need for it right now.

Okay thanks! I did not know about the PS fluid being Dexron 3 and thanks for the info on the differential and transfer boxes.

 

There are things that can easily be done to not only help the truck run better but also increase fuel economy.
Like a complete tune up for example, that means a new distributor cap and rotor, new spark plug wires and new spark plugs.
Once that is done take it to a shop and have your ignition timing properly adjusted.
That alone is not only part of preventive maintenance it will also increase your MPG.

Like these other guys said, get it up and running well before you make mod's.

 

I actually have done all of that. Switched the spark plugs to bosche platinum, new wire set, new distributor cap and rotor.

Ignition timing, not done yet.

But I am trying to figure out the Anti-Lock light. It is the ABS right? And I scheduled an appointment with a foreign car mechanic in town. He said $50 for the diagnostic and Firestone was charging $100.

 

Yes the anti-lock is the ABS.
Could be any number of problems with that, once you fine out what let us know.
I just pulled my ABS pump fuse and no longer have ABS.

 

Will do, I'm going to attempt this today in Auto Mechanics class at school. Tell you how it goes later.

 

I just needed to change the brakes -.-
I did the paperclip test and the light went off. After the third attempt because I was a little doubtful I had not done it correctly but I met a man at Auto Zone who owns a land rover like mine and he showed me. No light, so that means it just needs the brakes changed which I bought and will do.

 

Uh, what were the codes? Just because it went out doesn't mean you need brakes. It can come back....

 

There weren't any codes. I would plug in the paperclip, while the key is in the ON position. Flip the key between on and off 3 times and waited for the lights. All the lights came on like it normally does. All the lights went off. Except the ABS and SRS..which is normal because they are always on. So the guy who helped me said there was no code and that the ABS light was on because I needed to change my brake pads. He said the only reason I would ever need to do the paperclip method was when the CHECK ENGINE light is on.

 

False. The ABS light illuminates and then goes out after a few revolutions of the tires. If there are no faults. It will stay illuminated if there is a fault. It has nothing to do with the amount of pads left. This is not to say your brakes are fine, just that changing them will not make your light go out.

If your check engine light comes on, there is a display under your passenger seat that will show you the 2 digit fault code.

Your "mechanic" has Chevrolet on the brain. Rovers do NOT work the same.

Oh, and there are 2 procedures for the blink code. One is across the terminals on the ABS relay (OBD-I), and one is at the data link connector (OBD-II). You are pre-OBD-II, so you can not access through the data link. You have to find the relay, pull it, and jumper there. Check RAVE for the location.