BPWBKT6 is what I'd get. From talking to the BP guy, there's no real difference. Everyone buys the cheaper one.

If it runs fine otherwise there's probably no need to go any further than a HG job, although it is a good opportunity. I'm just going all out because it's my project vehicle, AKA time/money pit that I'm OK with.

I'm in the Grants Pass area, but I visit those areas a couple times a year. Can't wait to take the Rover.

 

brakes will be minimal, and e brake is really just for parking, it clamps drive shaft. may not be legal either in your state

 

Sorry no updates, my neighbor got involved in another project and we didn't have time to get it home today. Later in the week I'm now thinking. That is if the wrecker doesn't get to it first...

I did discover the O2 sensor was on the pass side just below the manifold. Finally saw it while searching for the water leak.

 

Bummer and good news.

From an ex HH53 flyer to an ex HH65 flyer......you have a real basket case.

I like Jolly Green Giant vegetables, always have.

Mine was ready for the crusher once upon a time. Must be thing, rescuing poor neglected Land Rovers.......? I'm almost to the level of Christmas Card sending with Paul Grant.....heck I just might this year! I own a Roverguy T shirt.

These two fellas are true blue warriors!

I've never canoed the Blackfoot, either fork.

 

Ha, must be something in our DNA to rescue those in need! Or is it preventing Darwin from doing his job...?

Traverse City was one of the few AirSta I never visited...I hear it's beautiful. Must be really pretty this time of year.

Re the D1, I think I could handle one or the other, that is tackle all the electrical or the head gasket...but not both. I already have a winter project this year (1969 Honda SL350). On my last visit to the Rover I checked all the fuses with a DVM. I only found one open, the 100 amp under the hood. On the surface that tells me there are either wiring and/or switch issues with everything else. Here's a list of what I've found that works (electrically):

Right turn signal
Left WS wiper
Left power mirror
Multiple warning lights in dash

Everything else you can think of electrically does not work from dome lights to the radio and all else mentioned in earlier posts. Basket case...indeed.

 

You can always part it out.

 

Sounds to me like it has a ground problem. It's unusual for that many electrical components to be faulty. We had a similar problem when rebuilding my fiances s-10, the electrical system went totally nuts and nothing worked right if at all. We upgraded every major power and ground cable to "0" gauge wire, made new ground locations for those cables and used high quality ends on the cables. After we did that everything electrical that was giving us problems went away. The wiring in these Rovers sucks when they are brand new so it doesnt take much to make the entire system go crazy. One bad ground is all you need if its one of the main cables failing. I'd start by running new power wires from the battery to starter, battery to alternator and also adding new grounds from the battery to the frame, battery to body, body to frame, engine to body and engine to frame. Sounds like a lot of work and could prove to be worthless but its a great upgrade anyway and can be done cheap if you can find bulk "0" gauge wire. The great thing is you dont even need to remove the old crap if you dont want to. Electricity takes the path of least resistance so a brand new cable with nice clean ends will certainly prevail over what you have now.

Anyway sorry for the book just would hate to see something get scrapped over an electrical issue that is probably easily fixed. All you really need is a good multimeter and a lot of time and you will eventually find the problem.

 

Yep, the negative cable from battery goes down to a lug on the frame below the side of the radiator. And the wiring diagrams show you were all the ground points are. But I thought you cranked the engine, and drove it for a short distance? So ECM and other things have to be getting power. Would look at more of those fuse links under the hood, some of them run multiple things downstream. Just divide and conquer, one section at a time (lights, cranking, alternator, etc.). May have had squirrels chewing on a cable bundle....

 

I had asked about grounds early on in this thread. I was hoping someone had a similar experience. Sav B, you're right, I thought about that after I posted. The ignition/starting and computer can be added to the list of 'working' components.

I hope to get her to the house tomorrow. So far the best offer I have gotten from a wrecking yard is $275. Criminal. I guess my honest assesment of the problems scares them. I've told them it has a head gasket leak. I'm not sure what the PO told them, probably the same thing he told me...exhaust leak. Still hoping it's just the gasket and maybe even the valley pan vice head gasket and not a cracked head/block. :-(

 

I would rather fix electrical items than an oil pump or HG. Besides a meter get one of those 12 volt test lights that has a sharp point in it. A meter can read volts through a trashing connection, a light actually needs to draw some power to light up, and will be dimmer on a smarfy connection. Electrical troubleshooting guide is a big part of the RAVE.