Yeah, about 1 o clock. Do you have a copy of the Rave? There are multiple sections about the dizzy, static timing, dynamic timing and troubleshooting spark/no spark. 3 degrees BTDC if static timing by the way.

 

My money is on the ignition amp.
Those compression numbers are right in line with the '95's low compression engine, 8.35:1 if I remember correctly.

 

i do have a copy on my computer. Is there a way to test the IAM? I cant find much on it...

 

If you downloaded the copy I linked it would be under "Discovery" page 816 in Adobe Acrobat.

 

alright, i installed a GM Ignition Module, it still sparks like it should. It somewhat sputters every once in awhile now. Still playing with it to see if i can get her fixed. It seems like the dizzy has an interesting quirk, when youre holding it while cranking over, you can feel it moving side to side a bit, seems as if something is out of line in there. I had it apart and couldnt find anything wrong. Tough to work on her for just 2 or so hours a day before work, wish i had the time to mess with her for a full day

 

So, we ruled out timing as an issue. It is sparking at very close to the correct time. My father believes its a fuel issue, and i agree. Seems like its getting waay too much fuel. I have around 35psi at the check port. Not sure what would cause this thing to flood out...

 

35psi is optimal.
Are the cylinders being flooded?

 

Yes they are.

Messed with her a bit today, put new plugs in. Unhooked the fuel pump to clear out the cylinders, then hooked it back up and spun her over. Shes atleast sputtering and kicking over now a bit. Think the timing is a tad off on the dizzy, and was by myself today, so it was hard to mess with it.

I measured the resistance between the two prongs on the ECTS and it was open. I unhooked it in hopes of it firing and running but no go. Im assuming the sensor is bad, but im not sure.

 

Well, got her going today, she runs very well on 7 cylinders :P.

I believe it was a combination of problems, i think the ignition amplifier is actually bad and that caused the rotor in the dizzy to go bad. I swapped a GM ignition module in there and it had good spark but would only kick over a few times and wouldnt run. The rotor had a bit of carbon on it, so we ordered a new one. Put the new rotor on there and she fired right up. Got the timing around 10 degrees BTDC and she ran well.

Then all the sudden it started running on 7 cylinders, the far back cylinder on the drivers side isnt firing. Getting a Code 36 which is injector bank b fault.

Per the receipts i know the injectors were cleaned 20k ago, but i figure ill order a new injector. Any suggestions on where and what kind of injector to buy?

 

Contact Paul Grant at paulgrant@mac.com he'll hook you up.

Meanwhile, since you have to remove it see if the top screen is just blocked/plugged. You should be able to shake it and hear the pin, if not it's stuck.

Glad your moving forward on it. Tough to diagnose from behind a computer without seeing what you see. I usually take a razor knife and lightly scrap the carbon off rotors, I mean really light. Then take a ignition file and dress it. Helps but not always. Same for the cap terminals, they build up allot of carbon and with an exacto knife I'm usually able to pop most of it off and again lightly dress them up. Field fix and in days gone by it was a way to keep your vehicle running a little while longer so you could pick up the parts on pay day.

Popping an injector out can be easy, just loosen the rack enough to lift it up over the injector and wiggle the injector out. At least you know which one and how to find the codes. Good work!