4.0 GEMS how far should I tear it down?
Start with pulling a valve cover to see what your dealing with, at this point you have 2 running engines
If it looks clean inside I would just flip it over pull the pan, if everything looks good throw on a front and rear crank seal and reseal the pan
I mean once installed you can put that time and effort into rebuilding the original engine
If it looks clean inside I would just flip it over pull the pan, if everything looks good throw on a front and rear crank seal and reseal the pan
I mean once installed you can put that time and effort into rebuilding the original engine
I am just about to pick up my rebuilt motor from a local Land Rover/British engine rebuilder. The guy is 74 years old and was a machinist for the Air Force working on the Blackbird(I think its SR-22), etc.
He has a great reputation and builds a lot of foreign race engines.
Anyways, he is charging me $1200 to return the motor in short block form(with the front cover installed) and the heads rebuilt. This includes all the seals, bearings, etc.
The only thing I will have to do is add the gaskets from the heads up(and install the heads). He also cleaned all the upper parts.
He pressure tested the block while heated up and no issues, so this does not include the Top Hat liners. There is a local shop that does those for $2000. So it would end up being $3200 instead of the $6000 AB charges.
He has a great reputation and builds a lot of foreign race engines.
Anyways, he is charging me $1200 to return the motor in short block form(with the front cover installed) and the heads rebuilt. This includes all the seals, bearings, etc.
The only thing I will have to do is add the gaskets from the heads up(and install the heads). He also cleaned all the upper parts.
He pressure tested the block while heated up and no issues, so this does not include the Top Hat liners. There is a local shop that does those for $2000. So it would end up being $3200 instead of the $6000 AB charges.
if you can run the engine put on the missing sensors and run it up to temp things like that, see if the coolant pressurizes
you said there was a startup knock, when you pull the oil pan check the oil pickup for clogs or being loose also look for discoloration on all bearing caps, if you see discoloring it is likely a bearing that is bad or going bad and has heated up
front main seal take off the balancer pop out old pop in new reinstall balancer
rear main remove flywheel pop out old pop in new do not remove the bearing cap like rave says
you said there was a startup knock, when you pull the oil pan check the oil pickup for clogs or being loose also look for discoloration on all bearing caps, if you see discoloring it is likely a bearing that is bad or going bad and has heated up
front main seal take off the balancer pop out old pop in new reinstall balancer
rear main remove flywheel pop out old pop in new do not remove the bearing cap like rave says
if you can run the engine put on the missing sensors and run it up to temp things like that, see if the coolant pressurizes
you said there was a startup knock, when you pull the oil pan check the oil pickup for clogs or being loose also look for discoloration on all bearing caps, if you see discoloring it is likely a bearing that is bad or going bad and has heated up
front main seal take off the balancer pop out old pop in new reinstall balancer
rear main remove flywheel pop out old pop in new do not remove the bearing cap like rave says
you said there was a startup knock, when you pull the oil pan check the oil pickup for clogs or being loose also look for discoloration on all bearing caps, if you see discoloring it is likely a bearing that is bad or going bad and has heated up
front main seal take off the balancer pop out old pop in new reinstall balancer
rear main remove flywheel pop out old pop in new do not remove the bearing cap like rave says
But those are also reasons I think the engine had been recently out of the truck. As for the knock, I'm thinking since the truck sat for several years w/o running the lifters were just oil starved. After several starts (probably 1 minute of idling) it went away.
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cobbcj7
Discovery II
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Oct 1, 2014 05:19 PM




