correct. by phased they mean the fore and aft flanges are not aligned in the same position on the axis they share in relation to the lobes / bolt holes. this configuration reduces "joint binding" at the u joints since this shaft travels through greater angle changes.... yet another reason it would suck to be short. Sorry short people...

The rear shaft is aligned (phased) differently and additionally balanced through the use of a counterweight (that small metal plate Chris mentioned). IF one were to separate the rear shaft halves and then reassemble them on different splines you would alter the rotational balance of the shaft. The bush we're refering to sits in the centre bore at the aft end of the shaft and centers the shaft on the pinion flange...helps take some of the lateral stress off the rotoflex.

I just love how the different manuals for different models and different years need to be cross referenced to get info about the same systems shared by various models. Flippin Brits. All Hail Lucas too... I might have designed the same vehicle systems the same way if I only saw a sunny day 15 times a year.

 

I was told a long time ago that if you compare England to the United States in land mass it is easy to understand why American built cars run greater distances than the typical English made car. They only need to make short trips while we tend to drive much greater annual distances.

Some English vehicles never leave their little village during their entire lifespan. I once saw an English Fire Cheif's personal Series I that only had a few thousand kilometers on it even though it was somewhere around 40 years old. A guy in Martha's Vineyard had purchased it and had it shipped over for his Island car.

 

I'm about to do my rear driveshaft universal joint and rotoflex, do I need that bushing too to get the job done? I don't see anything about it in the rave.

 

ok i found it in the rave its called the pinoin flange centralizing peg, but does it go bad? I looks like there is a special tool to remove it.

 

The peg itself rests inside the bore of the pinion driving flange...covers up the nut and washer which retain the flange onto the pinion shaft. That peg really shouldn't need to be replaced unless it is damaged or horribly worn out which you can determine visually.

The Bush that resides in the prop shaft itself it what should be replaced when replacing the rotoflex. That bushing does wear out and does exactly what is says... it centralizes the shaft onto the pinion. A proper bearing puller is best for removal if you have access to one but it can be removed otherwise, just not easily and it will end up being mangled all to hell which is ok so long as you don't damage the bore of the shaft.

My opinion... it should be changed out when it is worn out.

 

Here is what my second one looked like. I have the entire resources of my dealership at my disposal and still could not get it to release. I ended up using my air hammer with a cutting bit, viced the axle into my shop bench and using a up angle tapped away until it finally let go. OH! first I collapsed the edges in to assist in the release.



Cosmo- you made me laugh outloud with the lucas comment too!
At least you can take apart the switches and clean them up. Had to do this with my hvac buttons. They work fine for the next 6 months or so.

 

I better not tell my wife I'm worn out anymore...

 

Sounds and looks like a real horror story removing that.