here's the deal... 44 and 45 are mostly triggered by over-rich conditions as sensed by the corresponding O2.

That could be a lot of things. For instance, an old sensor takes longer to "detect" the exhaust gas makeup because the ceramic coating over the Titanium Dioxide sensing element is, for lack of a better term, saturated with crap., which means the info sent to the ECM is technically speaking, inaccurate in relation to the current state of the mix. This is why they should be changed out around 80k to 100k miles.

Also sensor plug connector pins get corroded, oil fouling of the wires and or plug/wire/sensor... basically anything that throws the electrical signal to the ECM out of the "normal" range it is programmed to find acceptable. The ECM will then alter the air:fuel mix through timing, injector pulse width...etc. All of this stuff is related to the same symptom, over-rich mixture. A dirty MAF can cause this over rich mix too.

Start with the most basic things first. Spark. Are all wires making perfect contact at both ends? Are they routed correctly per the diagrams available? Believe it or not that last step is very important.

By the way, did you use brake cleaner to clean the MAF? I hope not...

 

Glad to hear it went well Colo, how do you clear the faults? Just remove the negative lead on the battery?
I replaced the stock silicone wires with 7mm Magnacore wires and they seem very sturdy. People recommend the 8mm but after speaking to a magnecore tech he suggested fitting would be cramped and difficult with the 8mm shielding. I will check to make sure they are not in contact with anything and grounding by accident. Talked to my tech up here and he said a bad injector might throw me for a loop with the O2 sensor codes.

 

I had a code 44 last week. I took off the battery lead and it came back after a few days. So I checked my spark plug wires, pretty much just pushed down harder..idk if that helped, and jiggled the MAF..same as before. Then I went for a car wash, and sprayed underneath. Haven't seen the CEL for about 3 days.

 

There is a better way that tweak pointed out to me in my Head Gasket thread here:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...e2/#post233309

 

When you do replace them,I would go ahead and replace both betting that they are the originals unless otherwise known. Also they say only the fronts affect the performance, the rears are to tell you you cat is bad. But do eliminate the simple things first of course.

 

no rears on a 95.

 

So after pouring in the B&G44K I ran the tank through to almost empty and it seems that the rough idle is pretty much gone (knock on wood aka my head) I cleared the code following Cosmic's procedure and it worked, reader showed 02 code afterward but it went away after i started the car a 2nd time (02 code is power to the ecu) So we'll just wait and see if the CEL comes back... hopefully it doesn't though.