When parked hot between 2 to 20 minutes I have stumbling restarts at idle like on half the cylinders with vapor lock of a carbed engine.
Restart within a minute or after 20-30 minutes back to normal.
Takes 15-20 seconds holding 2,000 rpm's it'll clean out and run normal again.
Restarts after sitting 40 minutes also normal as with cold starts, warmup and driving. Acts worse when driven hard or hot off the highway then parked.
Already changed all the temp sensors with known spares, fuel rail temp sensor included but noticed after 30 minutes sitting removing the fuel rail sensor without and rail pressure plus zero gas spillage.
My thinking the fuel pressure regulator is leaking down, pressure when running is at 36 psi.
Stupid question, there must also be a check valve in the fuel pump output to maintain system pressure correct?
Any accumulator in the system to maintain pressure and if so where?
THX.....~~=o&o>.....

 

The fuel temp sensor is NOT immersed in fuel.

Land Rover Troubleshooting - Hot Running Problems

 

Spike55,
so the fuel rail sensor is screwed into a blind hole hence not wet at the end of the sensor correct?
On the ignition failing I have already checked the ignition on the EPA 75 Sunn smog machine with scope I have, all cylinders firing with even spark peaks on the scope during this hot restart problem testing.
On the dizzy all it contains is the pick-up with reluctor plus centrifugal advance unit internally (basic common) as well a two wire lead with socket, NO AMPLIFIER attached to the side of the dizzy externally soaking up engine heat from a hot shutdown.
This a 35DM8 dizzy same as the spare i'm looking at as I type.
This dizzy even have an amplifier and if so where is it located, 95 D1 build date code 11-94???????
Stock coil with Crane Fire wires 25 ohms/ft.

 

Quit guessing, go read your codes so you have a better idea what is wrong. Do you know how and where to read your codes and what the fault numbers are?

 

If you have good spark when hot and good fuel PSI check the fuel PSI when this happens, have you done that yet?
It could be a fuel pressure regulator, could be the cam sensor, or the ECU, could be almost anything.
Keep testing, start with the simple things and work your way up from there, which you are doing.
I am out of ideas at this point.

 

Mike, it's a guessing game when NO FAULT CODES COME UP, that is the pisser this time.
I knew how to read and clear fault codes the second day I owned this D1 back in 1-2000.
Remember the ABS codes I sent you plus posted a couple years ago that you did not have a clue what they were, no worries even NA Rover were stumped.
Also recall the aluminum intake extension I milled out plus the injector cleaning, PWM and Hz rig I built and sent to you for flushing and balance checking injectors? I'm not a total mechanical idiot.

Spike, yes i've checked fuel pressure as I posted before, it was normal as well holding overnight as well have solid spark all eight and on my Sun EPA 75 smog machine scope.
No amplifer on my dizzy so the heat soak amp failure problem isn't an issue unless the amp is mounted somewhere else and is failing.
Random failures always the best to solve ya think?
"Cam position sensor" you mentioned, where might this be on the 95 D1 3.9 engine I must ask?
Talking a distributor motor here even when it's a 4.6 now.

 

The cam sensor is on the front of the engine, somewhere above the oil filter but on the front.

Yes these random things are the hardest to solve, sometimes it is best to wait until it fails or breaks completely and then it is pretty easy to figure out what is wrong. lol

I have been thinking alittle about your problem but I keep coming up blank.
You said you replaced the MAF correct?

 

Spike,
I didn't mention it but I have a couple spare MAS meters and have swapped them out, same results.
I have one set at factory specs this I use for smog tests with another set up to RPI's specs as I run their Tornado chip in the ECU.
Already swapped out the ECU so that isn't the problen either.
I have a Actron tester fuel pressure tester, Autozone CP7818 i'll carry on board next time is acts up.
I'll note an overnight static pressure as well cold start, hot plus vacuum signal to regulator pressures plus pump flow output volume. This checker kit with a valve and bleed off hose.
I'll do the normal pinch off the return and feed lines to the fuel rail thing for pump, regulator and injector performance plus injector leak test.
I have no worries removing the injectors and testing them as they now come out without removing the plenum top with the 1 1/2" intake spacer I added.
THX,
Carl

 

With all this mod work - how about some pix?

 

I have a few photos in Kodak Easy Share, most others went to delete with the POS Kodak camera during downloading.
I'm into mechanical not a computer person.
To post photos from Easy Share i'm totally clueless, I can share using your email address. Any help would be appreciated.

Carl.....~~=o&o>.....