Let us know how it works out, sometimes they need to be calibrated.

 

I will.

 

I had same exact issue and here is what i did to fix it. I lost the pickup inside dizzy so i got one from Trevor at RovahFarm for like 30.00. If you have updated ignition you should have a remote Ignition Control Module found behind the mount plate behind the coil LH front of engine compartment next to radiator. If not your ICM is mounted on the dizzy. Remove harness plug or module and check resistance value accross the male terminals mounted on the distributor. You should have 2-5KOms. If under 2K not your pickup is bad or will be very soon.

Prior to installation or removal of your new pickup, and with the cap off, rotate the crank pully so that rotor is centered #1 HT lead which will be at 5:30 position (if 12o is back of engine)or exactly above the insulator plate screw closest to front of truck. There counter clockwise 30 deg is a notch which is used to fit a new dizzy or if you had removed it.

From under the truck while rotating the crank, you will find a slot on the pully and after you see the slot pass or close to 3:00 position you need a flashlight to see the timing point at 3:00.

If all is done correctly your timing mark will be between 6 deg BTDC and T. This is how to get the reluctor point alligned with pickup without turning dizzy. I found out the hard way by removing my dizzy which i had to set timing from scratch.

Get a new pickup and install without disturbing the origional position of the distriburor. Rotate the crank pully You will need a snap ring pliers to remove the reluctor wheel in order to remove base plate from dizzy and Vacuum advance.

Note position of rotor as #1 plug HT lead will be about 5:30 or just centered with insulator plate / disk screw closest to you

Set AIR GAP to .020MM -.030MM. To do this there is a notched hole providing movement centric or concentric on right adjustment screw and the adjustment screw on left closest to actual pickup

Do NOT remove dizzy unless necessary or you have to follow timing set procedure per RAVE which requires dwell meter / tachometer and a strobe timing light.

With that said use the .020 lower number with MM under it on your feeler gauge between point on reluctor and pickup close the distance, tighten pivot screw and finally tighten the swinging side screw and you should be good to go.

If your spark plugs are marginally old, it would never hurt to take them out and check and set gap if necessary to .38 inches

I went through getting New fuel pump motor E3270 at autozone for 70.00and filter, a new coil, IACV, vacuum lines fuel temp sensor and hours of test driving to see only same results before i replaced the pickup.

It is amazing how much ignition will make idle messed up, make the truck act like it's running out or starving for gas and just point you in all other directions. But my Gunther runs great and all other symptoms went away.

On the IACV, clean with carb and choke cleaner or soak in gas and WD40 mixture over night. remove housing at back of plenum chamber IACV goes into and clean it out. If you need an IACV get AC102 from Autozone for 35.99 it's actually used on 89 astrovan v6. But as i stated before your ignition is most likely causing all of the symptoms you have had and the IACV will not be in the picture anymore

 

Thanks for that!!

Tested the 2 male connectors at the distributor, I have 3.41 kohms.

I'm getting battery voltage to the + of the coil, and the - of the coil as the RAVE manual says I should.

I replaced the L hose on the IACV housing. The gasket for the IACV itself fell apart as I removed the old IACV. The new IACV came with that gasket.

I now have fuel pressure at the rail, but, as you stated above no spark.

The pick up in the distributor is at 3.41 kohms.

How often do the amplifiers (ignition modules) need replacement? and is that my next course of action?

Thanks.

 

Could my anti-theft be trying to thwart my starting attempts? Anyway to bypass the bugger with no remotes?

Thanks!!

 

Antitheft would be least of concern. Once central locking has been disabled by using the key in drivers side door to UNLUCK position obviously, you should have no flashing LED and should be able to start the vehicle. There is in RAVE a procedure on the anti theft sys using key in door and ign switching positions.

That said, you can get the ICM from RovahFarm.com for 20.00 number STC1184 / Price $20.45 that attaches behind the igniton coil mounting plate if it is remote from dissy..

You may have grounding issue. Try replacing the wire from coil to dissy.

Make sure that your coil has a low resistance value on both primary and secondary windings (omh across LV terminals as well as -terminal LV to HT wire inlet of ignition coil. If you do not ring out on your ohm meter, you have open and your coil needs replacement. the msd 8202 at autozone will work for a working test coil and replacement. plus you can return it if your coil is not the issue.

In Rave there search for Lucas Constant Energy Ignition. or in workshop manual page 816 and follow the testing procedure. Very close to that is a procedure holding the HT coil wire above the rotor with insulated plyers whiel cranking engine over to see spark to dissy. you can pm me and we can go ofver some stuff on the phone. but RAVE is your friend. learning the terms and procedures will only help you. ALL ENGINES WORK THE SAME. The RAVE is the most comprehensive documentation out there that other car companies lack in supporting their vehicles. Any information in RAVE can be directly applied to any vehicle for the most part in troubleshooting procedures. Keep in mind the dissy type or sensor type ignition systems difference.

 

On the IACV as a side note, once getting the truck to start, you may need to reset or learn the base idle speed to the ECU... PM me.

 

Be careful of your interpretation of voltage in coil terminals and points referenced below in rave.

V1 More than 12 volts.
V2 1 volt maximum below volts at V1.
V3 1 volt maximum below volts at V1.
V4 0 volt - 0.1 volt.

 

I'll run those tests on Saturday. Thanks for the help.

 

I'm actually more than a little embarrassed to tell you this. After trying feel pump coil ignition amplifier and replacing all the vacuum hoses, It turned out to be the distributor rotor. However, She runs like a dream after having replaced all that stuff. The Wells IACV works perfectly. It comes with a calibration procedure, that also worked perfectly. Thanks for your help!