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95 Disco Won't Start

Old Jul 22, 2013 | 10:29 PM
  #1  
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Default 95 Disco Won't Start

Here is my problem:

The Rover was at idle in the driveway and then just cut out. Turn the key and the engine just turns and turns and will not start.

Here is what I have checked:

There is spark to the spark plugs. There is pressure at the fuel rail. I have tried getting it to fire with some starting fluid sprayed in the throttle body and not even a little rumble.

I am stumped. I would think that if there is spark at the plug there should be some fire with the starting fluid. But nothing.

The engine gave no hint of trouble until it just cut out.

Can anyone think of some things that could cause this? Anything simple to check? What would you do next to troubleshoot?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 12:32 AM
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What kind of pressure at the rail? Should be 32-34 PSI. Pump runs for like 2 seconds when key turned to position 2.

Spark at lots of spark plugs? The D1 has a set of four coils that each fire two cylinders.

Blown fuse? Injectors can't squirt fuel without power.

There is a multifunction relay on the fenderwall passenger side. It runs fuel pump and some other functions.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Savannah Buzz
What kind of pressure at the rail? Should be 32-34 PSI. Pump runs for like 2 seconds when key turned to position 2.

Spark at lots of spark plugs? The D1 has a set of four coils that each fire two cylinders.

There is a multifunction relay on the fenderwall passenger side. It runs fuel pump and some other functions.
Four coils? From what I've seen my 95 only has one coil, mechanical distributor. 95 is OBD I. I think you're thinking of 96 & up Disco 1 with OBD II?

OP- Yeah you should have some kinda fire with spark & fuel? I have a D1 sitting in the driveway with no fuel line pressure but it fires up with starting fluid. Like Savannah says check for good sparks at all or most plugs. Maybe timing chain slipped? Maybe if spark is weak won't be enough to ignite fuel under pressure in the cylinder? Check coil, distributor, rotor arm?
 

Last edited by mordor110; Jul 23, 2013 at 01:13 AM.
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 08:01 AM
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My bad, old eyes at 1:30 AM saw 98 instead of 95. There is just one coil, driven by the ignition amplifier. Jumped time?
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 08:24 AM
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I guess here is what I'm going to check next:

* Ensure proper pressure at rail
* Check timing
* Compression test

Anything else???
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 10:24 AM
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Add fuel injection to the list. The injectors get +12 volts applied to all of them, and the ECU grounds them to squirt fuel. F7 in the underhood fuse box is one place, and you would want to see +12 at the Brown with orange wire at injectors.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 03:02 PM
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Fuel pump and fuel injector fuzes under the hood are good. Hopefully I'll have time to start getting into it more tomorrow depending on work and weather.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 06:28 PM
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new dist cap? That's a crappy one im sorry. Take a deep breath in and check all connections. Test spark in pitch black conditions. Next thing id think of is idle adjustment
 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 08:41 AM
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Is there any sensor that would go out and not let the engine start?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 10:36 AM
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Fuel pump - check test fitting on passenger side fuel rail for 32-34 PSI

Ignition amplifier module - won't have spark

MAF not plugged in?

With spark, engine should cough and start briefly on small squirt of starting fluid. DO NOT spray starting fluid into MAF..

Voltage to fuel injectors? They can't squirt without electrical power
 

Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Aug 4, 2013 at 10:39 AM.
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