recently purchased a 96 discovery. I can tell the vehicle had been sitting for a while. pads are shot rotors are decent but i figure I should change those as well. I am not very mechanically inclined anything more then changing oil or anything easy is above me. So just trying to figure out how much i should expect to pay for new brakes and rotors. Also would I save some money buying the parts myself and just paying for the labor? any suggestions on the parts would help to.

- Thanks guys.

 

RovahFarm for all your new Land Rover Parts and Accessories

 

pads and rotors on all four corners will run you $350-400. If you need bearings (2 x corner = 8 total) you can count on another $80.

figure on $300-500 labor depending on your location.

Honestly though, the quoted text above indicates that a D1 is not a good fit for you. You will burn through money quickly. Far more than the truck is worth.

Wrenching on these trucks is not terribly difficult if you are willing to learn, but you must be willing.

 

Second on RovahFarm. Sooner than later I'll order a load of brake parts myself. Maybe he will run a holiday special soon..

 

I love RovahFarm and Trevor but for brake parts I hit RockAuto. I'll usually get some midgrade rotors and stock up on cheap *** $8 pads. You can could change the pads every oil change and still be money ahead. And the calipers can be left in place to just swap in new pads.

 

I you go that route, get some new pins to hold the pads in place. Much easier than trying to use the old corroded ones.

 

The only way a guy gets to a better mechanic on his own is by doing it. Over time you end up with a decent tool collection. I had to buy 12 point sockets this time around. Never needed them in 40 years of back yard mechanics.

 

Changing the rotors and bearings is not much more difficult than an oil change if you can read instructions. The RAVE manual (as well as step-by-step instructions on this site and others) will help you. It's really just time consuming and you need a little muscle if the bolts are seized up. If it's not a daily driver and you can remove the wheels and then soak everything in PB blaster over a couple days, even better.


The only thing even remotely difficult in replacing bearings (which if you are pulling the rotors off you should replace the bearings, is getting them set correctly. There's a ton on the internet about that, too. You need a couple tools you may not have (like the 12 pt sockets (13mm for the brakes as I recall), the big huge socket for the bearing nut, and a brass drift (to knock the race out of the hub). Other than that it's just following directions and making sure you put things back the way they came out. People change bearings on the side of the road, it's not rocket science but the first time might be overwhelming if you don't take a smoke break and walk away if frustrated.


The only thing even remotely difficult (other than breaking old seized up bolts) is getting the bearing set right. Greasy glove method on the inner nut, then torque the outer nut (or it will loosen up, ask me how I know).


Reassemble.


If you're really all the way that deep in it, probably due for new calipers. You can usually get a set of good used ones from a seller on here if you put out feelers. The pistons in them can rust up, then tear the rubber, then you're leaking brake fluid. Since you have everything apart it saves you the time of removing the wheels again later. New pads on old crusty calipers isn't solving much.

 

Getting the rotor separated from the hub can be lots of fun, too. If the rotors are old and things are seized you can expect the disc to break away from the rotor. Then you get to drive a chisel between the rotor and hub to get them separated. Good times...

 

I'd try heat, usually pops corroded steel apart as long as you have a decent rosebud. My fav is the aluminum wheel to steel centering hub. DII's I don't like much.