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96 will not start at times

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Old 01-30-2014, 12:07 PM
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Default 96 will not start at times

I have a 96 that sometimes will not start. The lights on the dash come on and you hear a click from the computer system but I am not sure the starter is getting power. It cranked several times yesterday and I put in a new battery. Tried it several times but would not turn over. Then I noticed the radio had to be reset and it cranked after entering the security code for the radio. I am not sure if this is where the problem is. Last night it got down to 10 degrees here and it would not turn over this morning. The alternator is working. The starter is new. The only thing I have not replaced is the key switch. I have checked the ground connections at the starter and on the right side of the truck. Not sure if there is any more. Does anyone know if this is an electrical problem with the radio or computer system or a problem with some switch connected to the transmission system? Thanks
 
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:40 PM
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Check Engine Light on?

With the type of system these trucks use they are tough to start when it's frozen cold. Try holding the gas pedal open just a crack when you go to start it again. Hold it there long enough to get the motor warm and then let go.

They require a diagnostic system called Testbook (T4) to diagnose and not many LR dealers go back that far. Look for independent garage with an Autologic, they can do almost everything the T4 can at far less cost.
 
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Old 01-31-2014, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ihscouts
Check Engine Light on?

With the type of system these trucks use they are tough to start when it's frozen cold. Try holding the gas pedal open just a crack when you go to start it again. Hold it there long enough to get the motor warm and then let go.

They require a diagnostic system called Testbook (T4) to diagnose and not many LR dealers go back that far. Look for independent garage with an Autologic, they can do almost everything the T4 can at far less cost.


Thanks. It will at times not turn over. I am replacing the inertia switch as a starter and will then go to another switch in the security or safety system, etc until I find what is keeping it from sending juice to the starter at times. Thanks again for your reply. After it sat a while yesterday and warmed up it cranked without any problem. May have been the cold if it is possible to freeze up a switch or relay. The check engine light stays on because the truck has duel exhaust without cats on it.
 

Last edited by rebelman; 01-31-2014 at 07:17 AM. Reason: Check engine light
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Old 01-31-2014, 08:14 AM
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I just read something about a "spider box" that may be causing this trouble but it seems it is a pain in the rearend to fix by taking it out and soldering connections. The articles I read say there is a bypass that can be bought. I suppose this 96 has a spider box?
 
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:07 PM
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I have no cats, no CEL. Did you raise the rear 02's out of the exhaust stream? Spark plug anti-fouler does the trick.

I guess your probably right about going through it and finding the source of the intermittent no starts. I don't know if you do have a spider but you can "make" a bypass. I can't find my bookmark but just google it.
 
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by ihscouts
I have no cats, no CEL. Did you raise the rear 02's out of the exhaust stream? Spark plug anti-fouler does the trick.

I guess your probably right about going through it and finding the source of the intermittent no starts. I don't know if you do have a spider but you can "make" a bypass. I can't find my bookmark but just google it.

Thanks for the reply. I did raise the o2's out of the exhaust system. The cel comes and goes probably due to some air leak in the evap system so not a big deal yet. I just disconnected the hood switch yesterday and will see if that does the trick. I had to replace the battery and someone said the hood switch thinks someone has broken into the truck and will lock out the starter unless the switch is held down. You know how it is with these babies, you start and go through the process of elimination to find the solution to a problem.

On another subject I finally realized I had been in 4-wheel drive the past four years or so since I bought the truck used. As you know and I know now these have a full time all wheel drive and a 4-wheel drive for off road or pulling heavy loads or for ice like we had down here in Dixie this past week. The problem has been the manual instructions and the sticker behind the diff lock shifter. Neither explained how the system works and the only indication I had of the diff lock shifter moving left to right was a one sentence statement in the manual which made me research it further. So now I know the diff lock shifter moves to the right and left and to the right is for all wheel drive for normal running on the highway, etc and moving the shifter to the far left is for the 4-wheel drive used off road, etc which will light up an icon on the instrument panel. Of course you can move the shifter up to run in low gear in either all wheel drive or 4-wheel drive also. Yep, stupid on my part. Not sure if the gears are messed up or not but the truck seems to be working good. I only used it for hunting and made only a couple of 400 mile trips in it in the past so maybe nothing is hurt too bad.
 

Last edited by rebelman; 02-03-2014 at 07:06 AM. Reason: Add to paragraph
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Old 02-03-2014, 07:26 AM
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There was a sticker in front of the transfer case shifter with a diagram showing the postitions for the t-case along with a warning not to go over 5 mph or something with it in diff lock low. If nothing has dropped out you should be okay. Diff lock is very seldom necessary, for me anyway. For the no start, I'd start with the grounds from the battery. Somebody on here wrote abount adding another one or two. There is one from the engine bellhousing area to the frame also.
 
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Old 02-03-2014, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by DiscoJag
There was a sticker in front of the transfer case shifter with a diagram showing the postitions for the t-case along with a warning not to go over 5 mph or something with it in diff lock low. If nothing has dropped out you should be okay. Diff lock is very seldom necessary, for me anyway. For the no start, I'd start with the grounds from the battery. Somebody on here wrote abount adding another one or two. There is one from the engine bellhousing area to the frame also.

I saw the sticker but could not understand it. I have only run it in 4-wheel high and only run it in 4-wheel low once or twice just to make sure it did not freeze up. Nothing has come apart so I guess the LR is a little tougher than most think. I checked the grounds the other day and started to add another one but I did not get any better reading on my meter so I left it off until it happens agains. I hope the hood switch was the cause but who knows. Thanks for your reply.
 
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