97 Disco Bottom End Rebuild
#71
Ha, I put a full tank of premium in the day I bought it, and it's been sitting there ever since
Agreed. No extra power needed. That's why larger fan, Saudi grill, ceramic coated headers, Toms cable set, britishstarters gear reduction starter, and ARP head studs are on their way or on the list.
Also:
Agreed. No extra power needed. That's why larger fan, Saudi grill, ceramic coated headers, Toms cable set, britishstarters gear reduction starter, and ARP head studs are on their way or on the list.
Also:
#75
The last thing you want to do is to rev it to the moon during the initial testing. If you can find any specific methods for breaking in that specific motor, follow them all. You'll need to find a way to "prime" the oiling system as well before startup. Not sure about that engine but the GM motors I mess with can be primed with a drill by simply spinning over the oil pump via the distributor hole. It's also a good idea to take a small amount of oil and drop it in the spark plug holes before you start it up as even priming it before startup wont lube everything.
You may want to give your local Rover dealer a ring and get their input just to be on the safe side. Most machine shops are pretty good about giving advice but then again most of them dont see to many Rover engines so it may be a foreign process to them.
#77
Shop only had block, heads, and misc parts for cleaning so it's up to me to pack the grease in the oil pump.
From RPi:
And from gomog.com:
There is also some more interesting info on oil changes and oil pumps losing their prime.
From RAVE Overhaul Manual:
From RPi:
Use only Classic high detergent style Oils such as 'Castrol Magnatec' or 'GTX', do not use fully synthetic or oil additives.
If your engine is supplied with the Oil Pump base plate fitted, you can be assured that a priming agent (Vaseline) has been packed into the oil pump gears to ensure trouble free priming, if it has not been fitted then you will need to do this yourself to get oil to turn the engine over if the distributor is not fitted (the distributor drives the oil pump), but if you forget and the distributor is fitted you will need to re-prime the oil pump before starting.
The best way to do this is not to worry about starting the engine but to remove the plugs and the coil lead and have a highly charged battery available. The engine (with the distributor fitted) will crank over at a speed that should allow the oil priming to be achieved in seconds (oil Light out and a visual check), and, unless you remove the oil pump again, no further priming should ever be required.
If your engine is supplied with the Oil Pump base plate fitted, you can be assured that a priming agent (Vaseline) has been packed into the oil pump gears to ensure trouble free priming, if it has not been fitted then you will need to do this yourself to get oil to turn the engine over if the distributor is not fitted (the distributor drives the oil pump), but if you forget and the distributor is fitted you will need to re-prime the oil pump before starting.
The best way to do this is not to worry about starting the engine but to remove the plugs and the coil lead and have a highly charged battery available. The engine (with the distributor fitted) will crank over at a speed that should allow the oil priming to be achieved in seconds (oil Light out and a visual check), and, unless you remove the oil pump again, no further priming should ever be required.
1. Packing the Pump With Vaseline (aka Petroleum Jelly)
Drain the oil and unscrew the oil filter
Unscrew the six bolts from the pump cover.
Fill the cavities between the gears with vaseline
Fit a new gasket and refit the bolts (torque down to 10-15 lb/ft)
Replace the pre-filled oil filter and top up the oil
Start the engine and check for oil pressure and leaks.
2. Turning the Oil Pump Drive Gear
Remove the distributor. Make an adapter to fit the oil pump drive gear
and using an electrical drill, turn the the drive gear until the pump primes.
3. Packing the Pump with Vaseline Using a Grease Gun
by John Sheally II for the eMog Pub
Fill a cleaned out standard grease gun with one half pint of Petroleum Jelly
Leave the standard grease connector tip on the gun. (for zerks or grease nipples)
Remove the Oil Pressure Relief Valve Plug
Extract the Spring from the relief valve.
Insert the grease gun in the housing fill with the half pint of Jelly.
Replace spring and plug and you have a direct well packed oil pump gear housing. with no mess.
Drain the oil and unscrew the oil filter
Unscrew the six bolts from the pump cover.
Fill the cavities between the gears with vaseline
Fit a new gasket and refit the bolts (torque down to 10-15 lb/ft)
Replace the pre-filled oil filter and top up the oil
Start the engine and check for oil pressure and leaks.
2. Turning the Oil Pump Drive Gear
Remove the distributor. Make an adapter to fit the oil pump drive gear
and using an electrical drill, turn the the drive gear until the pump primes.
3. Packing the Pump with Vaseline Using a Grease Gun
by John Sheally II for the eMog Pub
Fill a cleaned out standard grease gun with one half pint of Petroleum Jelly
Leave the standard grease connector tip on the gun. (for zerks or grease nipples)
Remove the Oil Pressure Relief Valve Plug
Extract the Spring from the relief valve.
Insert the grease gun in the housing fill with the half pint of Jelly.
Replace spring and plug and you have a direct well packed oil pump gear housing. with no mess.
From RAVE Overhaul Manual:
NOTE: Some tappet noise may be evident
on initial start-up. If necessary, run the
engine at 2500 rev/min for a few minutes
until noise ceases.
on initial start-up. If necessary, run the
engine at 2500 rev/min for a few minutes
until noise ceases.
Last edited by EricTyrrell; 11-08-2011 at 12:21 PM.
#79