97 Disco - Brake Binding
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2nd Gear
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 2
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97 Disco - Brake Binding
This may have already been addressed prior, but I haven't been able to find it specifically.
I have a 97 Discovery SD that needed all new brake parts - calipers, rotors, pads, and wheel bearings. I had professional help installing said parts.
Front calipers are D110 fitted with a solid D1 rotor.
All brake lines were replaced and bled out.
Once taking the truck on the road, after about 5 minutes, it felt that is was losing power and having a very difficult time keeping moving.
Truck would not go over 10 MPH and pads were burning (smell) - ONLY FRONT BRAKES
Once parked, the brake pedal was stiff and would not be able to be pressed down. It took over 45+ minutes before it cooled enough to be able to drive it again, but within minutes, they binded.
I have been told it could be the master cylinder, as it feels like the fluid is going into the calipers but not releasing once it heats up.
Is this true?
Does the D110 calipers effect this?
Is there anything special with having ABS and bleeding fluid, or changing parts?
There are no lights on the dash involving brakes or anything else.
Thank you!
I have a 97 Discovery SD that needed all new brake parts - calipers, rotors, pads, and wheel bearings. I had professional help installing said parts.
Front calipers are D110 fitted with a solid D1 rotor.
All brake lines were replaced and bled out.
Once taking the truck on the road, after about 5 minutes, it felt that is was losing power and having a very difficult time keeping moving.
Truck would not go over 10 MPH and pads were burning (smell) - ONLY FRONT BRAKES
Once parked, the brake pedal was stiff and would not be able to be pressed down. It took over 45+ minutes before it cooled enough to be able to drive it again, but within minutes, they binded.
I have been told it could be the master cylinder, as it feels like the fluid is going into the calipers but not releasing once it heats up.
Is this true?
Does the D110 calipers effect this?
Is there anything special with having ABS and bleeding fluid, or changing parts?
There are no lights on the dash involving brakes or anything else.
Thank you!
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 467
Likes: 36
From: Aurora, CO
In an effort to not wait 45+ minutes if there's a next time, when they are bound up break open the bleeder on a caliper and release the pressure. See if that frees things up; it should. If it doesn't, then it might be a caliper piston seizing internally, and only once the metals have cooled that it frees up.
One other thing it could be, and I haven't heard of folks having this problem in recent history, is a front brake line collapsing internally. It can trap the fluid at pressure which is activating the caliper. These days, I suspect the quality of lines has gone up and/or folks replace these before they reach a point of collapsing.
One other thing it could be, and I haven't heard of folks having this problem in recent history, is a front brake line collapsing internally. It can trap the fluid at pressure which is activating the caliper. These days, I suspect the quality of lines has gone up and/or folks replace these before they reach a point of collapsing.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,245
Likes: 402
From: Traverse City MI
Gotta buy OE on that part - first item on this page; https://rovahfarm.com/DiscoIBrakes.htm Aftermarket have a lousy record with the Disco, Lucas/TRW work. You might find it cheaper on the net but it's what you need. If your still using/wanting the ABS use a new ABS pressure reducing/proportioning valve in the line. The older they are the less functional they become.
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