97 Disco Finally Started! But then smokes and dies...
#11
Smoke in question was exiting from exhaust right? Of course there will be all kinds of stuff burning off once it fires and comes up to temp especially off the exhaust components. I had a lot of paint burning off a set of headers one time as I broke in a new cam. The smoke from that was blown back by the fan and made it seem like the engine was really smoking (it wasn't). My headers were a nice cherry red during that run...very hot.
I think you should pull your plugs and take a look at their condition...that may tell a lot.
Your torque method is different than mine in that you have actual values. Mine was the 90 deg then another 90. I didn't really like that method as I'm a numbers guy but it makes it easy once you scribe a line of some kind. What was odd in my case was I tried to figure out the lb-ft setting at 90 deg to see if they all 'clicked' at the same point and they didn't. Most were close but some made it to the 90 and subsequent 90 without ever clicking. I just used the 90 deg tightening procedure regardless the lb-ft although it wasn't easy. Sorry, that was sort of OT.
I think you should pull your plugs and take a look at their condition...that may tell a lot.
Your torque method is different than mine in that you have actual values. Mine was the 90 deg then another 90. I didn't really like that method as I'm a numbers guy but it makes it easy once you scribe a line of some kind. What was odd in my case was I tried to figure out the lb-ft setting at 90 deg to see if they all 'clicked' at the same point and they didn't. Most were close but some made it to the 90 and subsequent 90 without ever clicking. I just used the 90 deg tightening procedure regardless the lb-ft although it wasn't easy. Sorry, that was sort of OT.
#12
#13
Yes the smoke was clearly coming from the exhaust but got sucked back into the garage by the fan, like you said.
Buzz,
The ARP studs are only lubed on the top-side exposed threaded portion so no lube was near the inner gasket. The 66lb-ft comes from the RAVE section on 14 bolt heads, and is just 14ft-lb less than 80. I'm wondering if I really should have torqued them to 80 lb-ft. 66 seems like a lot though. I'd be really pissed if I go back in and torque them to 80 and damage the threads or the HG leaks again for some other reason. RAVE says HG should be dry so I doubt it's even a good idea to re-torque the heads without replacing the gasket and cleaning the mating surfaces again.
Buzz,
The ARP studs are only lubed on the top-side exposed threaded portion so no lube was near the inner gasket. The 66lb-ft comes from the RAVE section on 14 bolt heads, and is just 14ft-lb less than 80. I'm wondering if I really should have torqued them to 80 lb-ft. 66 seems like a lot though. I'd be really pissed if I go back in and torque them to 80 and damage the threads or the HG leaks again for some other reason. RAVE says HG should be dry so I doubt it's even a good idea to re-torque the heads without replacing the gasket and cleaning the mating surfaces again.
#14
#15
Sorry to be confusing Buzz, I just used 66 because it has been suggested that the 80 lb-ft ARP specifies was too high and could damage aluminum threads in block. 66 also seemed like a good torque figure because it was once spec'd for the older 14 bolt 3.9. Maybe ARP is smarter than the prevailing internet wisdom... Or maybe I torque them to 80 lb-ft, damage the threads and/or HG still leaks because of some other unrelated problem...
#17
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Having never rebuilt an engine before, I do have one question for the group. Could reving it to 2500 and holding it there right away have contibuted to the problem??!??....
I would think, let it idle a bit and work it up slowly. I am reluctant to treat any motor with too many rpm's sitting in park or neutral while my son is the exact opposite. He revs his all the time and revs 1st gear way too high and long in my opinion.
I would think, let it idle a bit and work it up slowly. I am reluctant to treat any motor with too many rpm's sitting in park or neutral while my son is the exact opposite. He revs his all the time and revs 1st gear way too high and long in my opinion.
#18
I'm more confused now, so 66 was selected based on the 3.9, which matches the old sheets from RAVE. They start with 60 newton meters (44 ft pounds), then 66 and 66 foot pounds.
I'm not sure how that translates to 15 newton meters (20 foot pounds) and 90 degrees and 90 degrees (overhaul book for 4.0). The overhaul book doesn't mention ending torque by specific number.
I'm not sure how that translates to 15 newton meters (20 foot pounds) and 90 degrees and 90 degrees (overhaul book for 4.0). The overhaul book doesn't mention ending torque by specific number.
#19
Having never rebuilt an engine before, i do have one question for the group. Could reving it to 2500 and holding it there right away have contibuted to the problem.
I would think, let it idle a bit and work it up slowly. I am reluctant to treat any motor with too many rpm's sitting in park or neutral while my son is the exact opposite.
I would think, let it idle a bit and work it up slowly. I am reluctant to treat any motor with too many rpm's sitting in park or neutral while my son is the exact opposite.
#20