And coolant test gear is loaner from auto parts store, need to save for that Ultra Gauge you are giving SWMBO for Xmas. CATs are above 350 F, any moisture will flash to steam...

 

Borrowed coolant pressure tester from auto store but it doesn't seem to fit.



If I ever find once that fits I'll just be looking for which cylinders end up with coolant in them right?

 

After some more testing tonight here's a re-cap and update to make it easier for everyone. Please read the details below as some have changed and are pointing less at coolant, and more at too much fuel.

• New rings and honed cylinders
• Heads and block surfaced and flat
• No cracks detected by machinist
• New composite HGs
• ARP head studs carefully torqued to 66 lb-ft
• Oil levels at full
• Redid valley pan gasket with RTV to ensure good seal
• No bubbles in coolant detected when running.
• Runs perfect for first 10-20 seconds
• Then lots of white smoke. Dissipates quickly but does NOT smell like coolant. Just smells like exhaust/gas, not sweet. (I know I said it did before, but it doesn't) Put my hand in front of exhaust and no sense of moisture.
• Smoke disappears after about 5 minutes and engine warmed up hot
• All plugs are dark dry flat black now, not oily, cylinder 3 was first to turn black.
• All cylinders have compression around 150-160 psi except #3 at 120
• Adding cap of oil to #3 boosted psi to 130.
• Took new oil sample. Does not appear to contain coolant. Will let it sit a while to separate.
• Engine has about 16 miles on it now, but used almost quarter tank of gas.
• Idles ok, but not great, in neutral. Struggles and dies sometimes in drive when stopped. Not sure if it's related or just throttle cable or something.
• Fuel pressure is 35 PSI at idle

I'm working on getting codes and coolant pressure test.

I've been looking all over the internet for ideas. Some say white smoke could have something to do with PCV? I did have the rocker covers hot tanked. Maybe something is plugged? Some suggest white smoke could be from burning transmission fluid through vacuum line? Or maybe something to do with fuel pressure regulator? Maybe it's broken or not enough vacuum? RPi also suggest it could be fitted the wrong way, though I fail to see how.

 

A new low performance record for mpg! 0-60 in 3.8 gallons!!!

You are "awash" in fuel. Running way too rich.

May need to clean MAF sensor with CRC cleaner when it is cold, it is delicate. Also clean throttle body, and check for binding cables (usually causes high idle).

Do you have a scanner that can read live data, or can you get to one at an auto parts store? Coolant temp sensor (the two wire one) if unplugged or bad, wil tell ECU that it is very cold (- 40F) and ECU will turn up the mixture.

Of course, ECU uses that and other sensor inputs to determine how much fuel to squirt into the cylinders.

I had to swap my ECU out once when it just would not re-learn the IACV no matter what methods were used. $40 at salvage.

When at idle, the passenger side oil separator in the valve cover has vacuum flow thru the engine, through the separator, and into the plenum. You can remove that line and plug the vac nipple on the plenum for testing. You can also pull out the squiggly separator and clean with solvent, or squirt some carb cleaner down it (don't douse it). On the driver's side, there is that short hose that connects to the throttle body, it can also be removed and plugged or duct taped on the throttle body. This leaves the engine with oil fumes that will float out of the two openings in valve covers, but not squirting under pressure, etc.

A vac leak could make all sorts of idle problems.

If PSI for fuel stays around 35, the regulator is working, as well as fuel pump. There is a vac line to regulator. Can pull vac line off to see change, rev engine, etc.

Tranny does not attach to vac system. Brake booster does, you can unplug that line, but don't drive, will have non-power brakes.

 

I would go ahead and replace all those vacumn lines that Savannah Buzz identified. The two lines from the valve covers were both decaying inside the tubing on mine. The one with the oil separator is a different size at each end so you are better off buying the correct replacements for those to get correct fit, I got mine from AB.

I got to take a look at the vacumn hose on the fuel pressure regulator. I haven't yet looked at that on mine and mine keeps running rich as well.

Get the CRC MAF Cleaner Spray, it will make a world of difference, it did on mine, wish I had done that a long time ago.

Hopefully you got no coolant leak either now. Have you been checking for lost fluid in the overflow tank?

Sounds like you are running super rich.

 

All the plugs being black sure indicates a rich mixture. The # 3 cylinder is still concerning. The fact that the PSI only came up 10 with the addition of oil points towards a potential valve issue.

 

Did you use those funky lifters you took pics of, the tubes with the ***** on the top?

HMMMMM?

 

Time for another update:

Cleared codes at auto store to get rid of codes from before rebuild. Drove around a while but no codes came back. How long does it take to get the codes again? Their crappy scanner wouldn't show temperatures.

Cleaned MAF thoroughly. No change.

Checked oil sample for coolant again. No sign.

Unplugging any of the plenum vacuum lines made it idle higher. Plugging them back in usually dropped rpm too low and died.

Yes I'm using those pushrods. They looked ok when I redid the valley pan.

 

Well that's good, I would hate it if one of those ***** fell off or the tube got funky.

 

Also, every hose/line on the truck is brand new.

I did notice the top rung of the oil separator broke off.