Sounds like a TPS issue alright......those modules do go bad.



When you first start a cold engine a lot of fuel is required to keep it running until it is warmed up. The computer simply dumps predetermined amount of fuel, input signals from engine speed, throttle position, and engine temperature......"open-loop". Once at operating temperature, the computer switches to "closed-loop", where the computer receives input from the oxygen sensors...hence the 5 minute no smoke....(maybe)



Back in my Rotary days, the RX7 TPS's do require calibration, ever so often. Luckily, the ECU has an output, that you can plug in a LED light, that tells you when the TPS is in the correct position.

Someone in the LR community should have a "sticky" on it....I hope.

 

Examine the plumbing aisle at home improvemnt store for a suitable adapter to shove in the coolant tank, or do it by clamping an old piece of radiator hose to it, etc. High idel could be dirty IACV, gunked up. You can clean it.

 

When I was trying to fix the rich mix I cleaned the IACV and surrounding areas well. It didn't make a difference to the smoking, crappy idle, and rich mix. It idled exactly the same too. THEN I messed around with the TPS and I'm pretty sure I sent it into permanent limp mode by doing so.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...gh-idle-32201/

Now it seems the only way to fix this is to take it to a stealership and have them reset it. Only problem is the nearest dealer is 4.5 hours away, and this disco barely makes it around the block. I hope there's some other way to reset it, because otherwise... I don't know what to do. If I can fix this problem I created by trying to fix the rich mix, then I can get back to trying to fix that, so I can fix cylinder #3, and hope this all hasn't completely screwed my rebuilt engine that was supposed to be being broken in properly this whole time.

 

Not sure you are 100% on dealer - see this from RAVE:


example, when throttle stop wear occurs.

Self adaptive means that it re-learns. So it may take a number of drive cycles. Also see http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=53402, and note from the respected PTSchram

When you say you cleaned IACV, did you remove it, clean it, and clean the bore it fits into?

 

Here's another way to force ECU to re-learn sensors, etc. ECU Reset

 

Thanks Buzz.

Started it multiple times today. Idled between 1800-2500 rpm each time. Then I started it to go to the auto store and it idled normal, aka crappy, but low. Then it switched back and forth between high and low idle at least 5 times durring the short trip. After getting back and resetting the ecu like you linked to I started it and immediately idled high at 2500 rpm.

At the auto store (still waiting for ultra gauge) I finally got two codes. P1313 and P1314 (Misfire Catalyst Damage Fault Bank A/B), whatever that means...

P1313 Freeze frame data:
Fuel System 1: Open Loop
Fuel System 2: Open Loop
Calculated Load: 53.3%
Coolant Temp: 120 F
STFT Bank 1: 24.2%
LTFT Bank 1: 0.7%
STFT Bank 2: 24.2%
LTFT Bank 2: 0.7%
Engine RPM: 1739
Speed: 24 MPH

Some say it's ignition, but I have new plugs/wires. Unless the plugs are too covered in soot from running rich.

Some say it's bent reluctor tabs. I know I bent a few during the rebuild, but I fixed them before installing. Crawled under and double checked them too. They look fairly straight unless they need to be perfect down to some tiny tolerance.

Seems it could be a lot of things.

 

1. open loop, so it is dumping high quantity of fuel in there.

2. Coolant temp 120 - you either don't have a stat, truk is not warmed up (but you drove to shop), or stat slipped down when you were installing it and has a little "outhouse" crescent moon opening above it. It will behave like no stat. Again, too cold, so turn up the fuel, thinks the computer. Or you coolant sensor is crazy.

3. Calculated load seems high for 24 mph - you were not parked, I hope?

4. What gear were you in? 1739 rpm is a lot more than 24 mph usually.

5. Reluctor pins would impact timing.

 

Whatever is going on is affecting all cylinders because they are all completely black now. A dry sooty black, not oily.

I am fighting that as well. And I am still learning about what to expect to see when monitoring live data.

So Open loop should only be when the engine is cold and closed loop for normal operating temps - right?

If I do the O2 Sensor test and arrow down a couple of times, mines reads way out of tol on the Response Time or something like that.

I keep getting a P1316 code and a CEL. Otherwise it runs really strong.

I got to read up on the IACV and The TPS so far i have completely avoided both. Not even sure what they look liike because I keep reading horror stories like ERIC is currently fighting.

Oh yeah, what does all this mean?
STFT Bank 1: 24.2%
LTFT Bank 1: 0.7%
STFT Bank 2: 24.2%
LTFT Bank 2: 0.7%
STFT Bank 1: 24.2%
LTFT Bank 1: 0.7%
STFT Bank 2: 24.2%
LTFT Bank 2: 0.7%

 

Closed loop means fuel under moment by moment control of system, open loop for when cold, when wide open throtttle (0-60 in 3.4 gallons), and when let off gas sharply. So normal to switch from one to the other. And many of these sensors would impact everything. And I suspect he has more than one glitch.

 

I would start off by replacing all the cheap ones first.

It does sound like his TPS whacked out if it is reading megaohms.