Here's a new thread for the head gasket repair on my 97 Discovery.

Before I get started does anyone have any tips, lessons learned, warnings?

I've never done a head gasket before. Do I just follow the RAVE? or is there another resource I should look at for step by step directions?

I've contacted Paul Grant about a HG kit but if anyone else has any suggested HG sources that'd be great.

Thanks

 

Another source for new parts at good prices is Trevor at RovahFarm.

I have not yet had to deal with the HG issue, but I have read a few threads on here regarding it, so do a search and see whjat is already out there.

There is a specific torquing pattern to follow, so make sure you get all that info before you get started.

Also, you will need a long breaker bar to break loose the existing bolts. You want to use a steady application of force with a very long breaker bar to minimize the possibility of breaking any of the existing bolts. The longer the breaker bar, the better.

As others have mentioned, get yourself a big box of large ziplock baggies and a sharpie so you can keep up with what was removed from where. Make good pictures before you tear things down, and at every major point along the way. That will give you something good to refer to later if a question arises as to what was where.

I like to have a big fire, lots of good meat and cold drinks, loud music, and scantily clad women dancing around the fire to appease the Rover Gods but that may not be appropriate in your nice neighborhood.

 

12 pt 8mm deep socket for the valve covers. The nice thing about these trucks is that they come apart and go back together only one way. The harness and all the hoses on top of the motor are only long enough to go back together the same way they came apart. When I did my valley pan gasket I initially thought it was a head gasket so I did tons of research on how to do a hg. When I get home if I remember I'll send you what I gathered. Pm me your email. I have a crap ton of photos of the top end tear down too. I took it down to the heads and had it all back together and running in 8.5 hrs with an extra set of hands

 

ok thanks for the tips so far. They'll be useful.

Now for some dumb questions.

1. Do I need two gaskets, one for each side? Just one for the side that's messed up?

2. The kits like the one below come with a lot of parts that I'm not sure I need or do I?

LAND ROVER PARTS - GASKET SET CYLINDER HEAD 3.9 & 4.0L V-8

3. Can I start disassembly and labeling before I get the parts? or will being exposed to the air be an issue?

4. How do I know if the heads need to be machined? Or is it always required of this type of job?

Thanks

 

https://landroverforums.com/forum/sh...torming&page=2

I'm driving. Look at these photos at least

 

Get the kit. A tear down of this magnitude necessitates you replace everything you can so hopefully you NEVER have to do it again.
Two head gaskets. Head bolts air exposure doesn't matter. Just make sure if you have open pathways to theotos. Ie the intake manifold off, that you cover those with a cloth or something ad frequently as possible to keep foreign matter out. Take lots of photos. It's a lot easier to match to sample than guess on the rebuild.

 

You need all the **** in that kit plus a head bolt kit. Plus think about a water pump and timing chain while you're in there if you can swing it.

 

As to machining - the answer is probably. Find a local machine shop that does heads, NAPA or indy shops can recommend them. There will be one price to check the heads for flatness, and a bigger price to machine them as required, and you can do the valve seals yourself or let them do it. Mosts posts say this runs about $200 for the whole bowl of grits. Putting warped heads back on new gasket and you are back to same problem. As for pix, if you use the cam corder you can narrate as well, may help jog memory. When tightening the new head bolts follow directions exactly. Make a chart and mark them off when done one by one, a bolt just tightened to stage 3 looks just like one that is at stage 2.

 

Thanks for the clarifications and links. Those pics will be helpful.

Do you guys think leaving it ramped on the passenger side is ok for this job or would a different configuration of the ramps be better?

Do I need this Hylomar Gasket Sealer? Rover North says "The official sealer used by Land Rover during assembly." The gasket kit from rovahfarm says it's teflon coated.

 

A handy trick for the head bolts is to use a paint pen and draw a line through the tops of the head bolts. Because the torque spec is "x" number of pound ft and then two quarter turns I believe. If you draw a line through the head bolts youll never mistakenly over or under turn any bolts