are you using a 6pt or 12 pt socket? On fasteners like headbolts that you dont want to strip using a 6pt is ideal. For fasteners that have any sort of high torque applied to them (such as stretch head bolts) it's best to use a 1/2 socket set. A good breaker bar should be in everyones tool collection.

 

You need yourself a very long breaker bar and patience Dont try to yank the crap out of it you'll just break the bolt off in the head or round off the head of the bolt. I like to use an impact to break them loose and then back them off with a standard ratchet. The quick bursts from the impact will break it loose much easier than a human just yanking on a ratchet at an odd angle. They are certainly going to be tight so just be careful and take your time and they'll back right out. Toss them in the trash when you get them out as they can not be reused. Also make sure you're using a good quality socket, the cheap ones are never as precise as they should be and sometimes make ruining the head of the bolt very easy.

 

And for enhanced shade tree style, slip a length of 3/4 or 1 inch metal pipe over the handle of the breaker bar, extending your leverage with the "cheater" bar. Use with care.

 

I'm buying a new 1/2 6-point socket today. For the lower head bolts is it better to use a deep socket or short extension?

 

Eric, like was said, buy the best quality sockets you can. I bought a set of 1/2 drive impact sockets as they are pretty beefy. Also with most of the fasteners, soak them in PB Blaster a few times to allow it to penetrate and do it's thing. I don't know if there is an issue with using the penetrating sprays internally but I would not think there is.

Also ensure the fastener itself is clean for a precise fit and the socket is squarely aligned and seated proiperly. Get breaker bar and cheater pipe like Buzz said, the longer the lever arm, the easier it is to break the torque instead of the piece or your knuckles. Use a slow steady pull rather than a quick jerk. Also trying to slightly tighten a fastener will often make it easier to loosen, or so they taught us in the Navy Schools.

Instead of having the vehicle on ramps, I prefer to jack it up, place it on jack stands with the wheels blocked. Then you can remove the front wheels and gain access to lots more via the wheel well openings as well. I even took a pair of tin snips and cut my inner wheel wells along the back side to allow me to actually fold them up out of the way. This gives great access to the exhaust manifold and y-pipe bolts, the starter and several other key items. Some people freak out over that, but i am a firm believer in seeing what I am trying to work on as well as being able to comfortably reach it and does not degrade the truck, it has already bottom out depreciation wise anyway, why not improve the access.

If you are damaging bolts, you are not doing it right.

 

And when they break off you will be investing in even more tools. But we think you are doing an outstanding job. Post more pictures, please. Note: do not strike truck with cheater bar in anger. It will just leak more.

 

Thanks Danny. I do own all those things. Both a 3/8 and 1/2 breaker bar and cheater pipe too. I used PB too.

I have to get a new 16mm 6-point socket for the head bolts though. What I'm asking is if it's better to buy a deep socket, or a short socket with an extension, to reach the lower head bolts.

 

I like deep if clearance is not an issue, more space between knuckles and metal.

 

Yeah my knuckles have a few rover battle scars. To be expected after all this.

This is what I was thinking...

Deep socket: Less pieces and tolerances to torque on.

Short socket/extension combo: Socket walls closer to socket base. Maybe stronger.

 

I agree with Buzz. I try to limit the use of extensions whenever possible. I prefer the deep sockets.

Slightly tightening first does help to break the torque. I had bought a couple of pieces of black iron pipe for cheater bars. You can possible position it such to use a foot or even a hydraulic jack if necessary to apply the rotational force. Staying as close to 90 degrees as possible helps a lot. You can strike straight down on the head with a hammer blow to help break torque as well.

Of course, having an 18 inch neck and 54 inch chest along with size 15 feet gives me a slight physical advantage that some people do not possess.

I have heard some people say it took them and a buddy both pulling together to break loose those bolts.