Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

97 Disco replacing fuel lines

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  #11  
Old 05-24-2011, 10:00 AM
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Well fuel lines are a new one for me years of driving Volvo's with brass lines I have never done one. I made it to the fuel filtre and there were quite bad until there but the rest were nice and clean I had help and it took me 5 hours. The fuel filtre the way land rover has it installed they must think it is life long.The one question I have is whether I have to reuse the metal rusty ring on my sender unit or can I replace it with a plastic one . It has the newer sender unit later 97 . thanks
 
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Old 05-24-2011, 12:37 PM
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Based upon the conditions I had, there must be a galvanic action occuring around the clamps. My fuel filter and the clamp on it was the most corroded of anything i have ever expereienced. The clamp was almost completely gone and there were pinholes developing thru the body of the fuel filter, it may have been the original one judging from it's condition.

Also at each clamp location ,the line was terribly corroded. Keep in mind, these were installed during assembly most likely to a naked frame, prior to mounting the body and other components. An assembly line is different from working on a completed vehicle of course.

I came up with my own routing like I said straight forward from the gas tank top, over the large round member underneath the vehicle. If you are new to the Discovery, I suggest you spend some time under it on a creeper with a good light and eye protection. You need to see what conditions you have.

My leak started really badly as a result of lifting the lines out of the way when trying to gain access to my starter which i thought was bad. Turnewd out the starter was good, but it had a corroded ground. The next morning when I came out of the house, there was a large wet spot from my engine area back towards the gas tank. I lost all the gas in the tank overnight duye to multiple leaks from removing the fuel line from a couple of clamps and moving it slightly. The clamps and the fuel lines had become corroded so severely that they were now one. Molecular migraion is the scientific term for this phemomena.

The pictures are in the albums linked to my signature. look at them, you will be amazed.

I did it in my driveway with the Rover sitting on all four wheels. I was working by myself most of the time. I estimate about 350 to 400 times up and down to complete the job.
 
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Old 05-24-2011, 06:36 PM
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Also, some asked about clamping the new lines. Lowe's has some white plastic tie-down blocks normally used for electrical harnesses that will work well. They have an adhesive backing but also have a mounting hole in the middle usually. You can mount them where ever you need them on the fram then use a cable tie to secure the line or buy insulated metal clamps that wrap around the line and mount it to the frame using self-drilling bolts.

I have mine secured with the cable ties. Just make sure you form the lines so that they do not rub against anything and check them occasionally to ensure they are not getting damage from vibration/rubbing on anything.

I did mine with less than $30 worth of fuel line steel tubing with a green corrosion resistant finish and a few cable ties and tie down blocks. That beats buying the prefvormed ones from a supplier even if you can find them, they are pretty expensive.

Be sure to use good clamps to secure the rubber hoses used to tie the new lines into the fuel filter and at each end of the tubing to the fuel tank and fuel rail.
 
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Old 05-25-2011, 07:34 AM
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I guess I should take a few pictures but I was in no mood while the work was being done, I did not have that kind of rust the clamp that holds the filtre was still black with no rust at all. I pressure washed the frame where the lines were and the frame was black under all the rustproofing crap. I did spend some time under the truck and greased every nipple I could find and under the rig is in very good shape and no leaks at all. So I believe it has been well cared for . The rotors and calipers are new as well as the brake lines. The rust that bothers me is on the body in the A pillar and I am guessing it is from a leaky windshield so I will drive it for a few months to see if anything else mechanically comes up then have someone patch the holes, I did get 17 MPG on my second tank of fuel which I hought was quite good. I have to replace the )2 sensors because of a check engine light and I have an ABS light on as well and I will try to reposition them and see if that fixes that. I tell everybody it is my 4 wheeler and it was only 500.00 . It would be nice if there was someone in the area with one of these rigs so we could get together and fix them up .thanks for all your pointer's
 
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Old 05-26-2011, 08:40 PM
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:58 PM
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Hey for 500 bucks and getting 17 MPG, I would be ecstatic. I wouldn't even bother invest lots of money on anything except keeping it running good.

I also enjoyed a Volvo 240 and a MB420 SEL fir a number of years too.
 
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Old 05-29-2011, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by coldstart
...I have to replace the )2 sensors because of a check engine light and I have an ABS light on as well and I will try to reposition them and see if that fixes that. I tell everybody it is my 4 wheeler and it was only 500.00 . It would be nice if there was someone in the area with one of these rigs so we could get together and fix them up .thanks for all your pointer's
wow, small world. I purchased my 97 disco, 5 spd, also for $500, owner was trying to bring it home to S. Africa. I also had to replace the O2 sensors and now have to troubleshoot the ABS light. it also has the A-pillar windshield leak on the driver (left) side. don't tell me your truck is green also? oh..also found out my passenger window is missing the motor & regulator, owner used a block of wood, might have to add "check for termites" to my maintenance schedule.
 
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