I can't get the fuel pump to turn on. I replaced the pump and the fuel pump relay box. I'm getting 12v on 1 wire at the pump and 5.6v on another wire at the pump. There are 4 wires, should another wire be feeding it power too? I heard clicking coming from the fuel pump relay box when I hooked up the battery. I hit the reset on the fuel shutoff switch. My gas guage still functions correctly, same reading as the old fuel pump, so I think I may have wasted time and money on the new pump.

 

One set is for the gauge and one is for the pump. Unplug the connectors one at a time until the gauge drops. the other is for your pump. Check power there. It will only run for a few seconds once the key is turned on. Sorry don't remember which connector or the colors..

The inertia switch is the next place to check, and up from there, the fuel pump relay.

 

have somebody cycle the key a few times while you're at the back listening for the pump.

you're getting zero fuel at the schrader valve on your rail?

 

Before replaces the fuel pump relay, check for a signal from the crank sensor, if it has failed you could have no signal from the ECU to the pump and or coils.

 

no fuel at the schrader valve either. I had someone cycle the key and wasnt getting any diff. power reading at the pump either. Just a constant 12v on 1 wire and the 5v on another. Nothing to indicate the pump wanted to prime. I'm getting spark but no fuel. I also have compression.

 

Do a Google search on this, it is a alarm problem.
I forget exactly what goes wrong but the alarm is cutting off the fuel supply.
I think I have it bookmarked somewhere.


http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86

Thats all I have and I dont think this is your problem.

 

Also, reset the inreita switch located on the firewall next to the heater hoses.

 

it may be possible, seeing my turn signals haven't worked in a long time, it could be the spyder assembly. I can do without the turn signals, really need the fuel to work so the thing will run.lol

 

well then have fun tearing apart your center (or is that centre?) dash and pulling that "spider" module out. The link Spike sent you is absolutely plausable. Take his advice and follow that link.

The old modules in our trucks mostly suffer the same faults, depending on driving conditions of course. And the solder joints in those modules are prone to failure. Just ask anyone whose rear windows stopped working...