re: jeep cross - see old thread with several part numbers on more than one post, $35 and up https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...epper+Motor%29

 

Still don't have it running. No codes on the scanner. I opened the throttle, like it was suggested and still nothing. I did get a backfire, but it did not ignite. I have a friend coming over with a compression tester. I am leaning towards a timing belt replacement. It doesn't sound like it is broken (thank God). Going to attempt to look at it this weekend, but want to do the compression test first.

 

No belt, just a chain.

 

Thanks for correcting me. Is it normal for the chain to go out, I would think that chains are pretty durable compared to belts?

I looked in the RAVE and it mentioned both the timing belt and chain (I key-word searched it).

 

The diesels have a timing belt, the v8 s have a chain.
While the chain could have broken or jumped a tooth it is not very likely.

 

BTW, since you are considering that timing could be off, the crank position sensor could be mis-aligned, or if you had to modify connector, a reversed cable will cause timing to be 3 degrees off. There have a number of posts from guys who could not get truck to start after putting on a new crank sensor, only to find out the mounting was jiggered. Page attached.

 

Interesting. Any idea which direction I should go towards. I know it may not be the end all cure, but I would like to think I am making progress. I had a voltage meter this weekend and tested the connections and they seemed to be in order and to spec.

I was thinking maybe a bad pcm? I even started thinking maybe the alarm somehow shut things down (although, it never went off) I am totally perplexed. Like I mentioned earlier, I replaced the crank sensor to no avail.

I am being patient, but I sure would like to get some indication from Rover that I am going the right direction and making him well again!

 

Don't think it is alarm, as it controls the ground to the starter relay. Since you do turn over, that relay is working. Cam position sensor could be unplugged / bad. Front cover area.

 

Thanks for the link! I was looking for that to get the Jeep cross reference info and see if it would help... (Odd that post and info is in the Disco II forum, probably why I didn't find it... I was searching this D1 forum looking for it.)

I found that my closest, local parts store has that same cross reference, but the Jeep/AC Delco part is now a couple dollars more expensive than the Borg Warner that's spec'd for the Disco. Both are order items, but the BW (21774) is a one-day special order I can get by tomorrow... The Jeep/AC (217-1765) is indefinite, unknown availability date. The prices on each are now over $50 locally.

 

Update:

After a bit of an "O'Reilly Runaround" (they should rename it "O'Really? Auto Parts")... got hold of a 21447 Borg Warner replacement IAC and that did the trick. Car is starting and idling just fine now.

The original symptoms...

Car would not start hot or cold, without giving it some throttle with the pedal (not a good idea, I know... but whatareyougonnado when you need to get to the store for the parts?)

After starting, hot or cold car would not idle. It would simply die, unless I kept the throttle partly opened. I quickly got pretty good at two-footed driving... feathering the throttle with one foot to keep the truck running, while braking for stop lights and such with the other foot... wouldn't want to do that for very long or very far. It's a PITA.

Car ran fine at anything other than idle. Simply would not idle, no pressure on the throttle would just let the rpms drop until the engine died, hot or cold.

A while ago a somewhat similar problem, but only at cold start (car idled fine once started and would restart fine when warmed up), was a fuel pump going bad. It took repeated attempts to start the engine and feathering the throttle only partly helped. That proved to be a partial failure of the fuel pump that showed up as reduced pressure at the fuel rail test port (Only about 25 psi at "key on", but not running. The replacement pump is giving 37 psi).

I don't know if it was relevant, but the old part's "plunger" seemed to be fully extended. Also, one time while I was trying to figure out the problem, it seemed that the body of the IAC was pretty warm, warmer than the engine. But that might have been my imagination.

Some observations about the replacement part and installation:

The part cost $53 + tax at O'Reilly.... Might have been able to find it cheaper online if I could have waited for it to be shipped, but a store close to me had it on their shelf.

The new part doesn't position the connector in the same way, it's rotated more to 10 or 11 o'clock, rather than 9 o'clock. But the harness pigtail was long enough to reach.

The new part came with an o-ring instead of a heavy paper gasket (that was used on the original part).

If the car wants to idle higher than usual after installing the new IAC, make sure you have the screws tightened down enough. It might feel pretty tight due to the o-ring, but still needs to be tightened more, the o-ring compressed quite a bit for the IAC's plunger to properly reach and close off the air bypass opening. When I first installed, my truck wanted to idle around 1000-1200 rpm (and it was warm already). It also was slow to return to idle, sometimes even increased rpms rather than dropping, if revved a little with the throttle. That condition would have been dangerous to drive at all. In gear, though, the automatic transmission would slow the rpms to around 750 (but sounded as if the car was straining at the bit). Tightening the screws a bit more resolved the problem.

This may or may not be helpful to the original poster with their problem. If they can't get the car to start and keep it running by feathering the throttle open a bit with the pedal, I doubt it's the IAC at fault.

I was pleased to see it was just the IAC in my car, and not that it was getting a bad signal or something from one of the many other sensors or the ECU. Big sigh of relief it wasn't the MAF!