Hello all, I will start by saying I know there are several topics on this issue already in the forum, I have scoured them however, the majority of them end without resolution.

Now on to my problem. I have a 1998 land rover discovery 1 LHD 4.0 auto north American spec.

The vehicle was previously starting and driving, the last thing I did to it was change the spark plugs and wires, after completing this the vehicle would crank but not start. I checked all the work and found no issue, I checked spark from the ignition coil to the wires and was getting no spark. I checked the connection going to the ignition coil and found no issue so I replaced the ignition coil. Between the wire and plug change and the ignition coil change (several months) the battery on the vehicle died and was recharged without issue. Now after all of this the vehicle will not crank or start. I should also note that I am not hearing the fuel pump prime either.

The dash light comes on as normal, and when attempting to start I am hearing the relay in the passenger footwell working. No security light flashing on the dash, radio code entered and accepted.

Things I have checked:
Battery voltage 13.2V
Underwood fuse box voltage 13.2V
Starter solenoid voltage 13.2V
60 amp ignition fuse has power across it and appears good
I checked fuses found none bad
I cleaned and tightened the battery cables
I tried tapping the starter solenoid, no change

While crawling under the vehicle searching for issues I found a single wire connector (white wire red tracer) broken away from the black female plug at the front of the engine. I am not sure what this is , crank position sensor? Picture is attached. I plan to repair this just ran out of time.

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Still nothing. Any help is appreciated, I am at a loss.

 

Given the location near the front of the engine I suspect that wire is actually a white with BROWN tracer (easy to take if for a worn red tracer). That would be connected to connector C142 at the oil pressure switch which is located on the front (timing) cover close to the oil filter.

The electrical diagrams can be found in the google drive in my signature. FWIW, initially I searched for "WR" to find all the white/red wires. Then it dawned on me that it could be a "WN" wire. After that the search took me right there.

You can find it in the document: etlj970x - electrical.pdf . Chapter E3, page 6.

I'm not certain this is fix the 'no crank' symptom, but it might.

 

Thank you for the diagram, I will get this repaired and try again. Based on the diagram it looks like it just triggers the dash light

 

It could shut off the fuel pump if there is no oil pressure, I had problems with the roll over switch (pass side firewall) that would disconnect power to the fuel pump, was a burned contact on the switch. turn on the key and see if the fuel pump runs (for about 15-20 sec) and see if you have pressure at the fuel rail.

sounds like maybe the replacement coil is bad, check and see if it has power to it(??)

 

That oil pressure switch wire does not prevent cranking, although the broken wire does indicate as if oil pressure is good (normally closed switch opens when pressure is applied).

Step 1 fix the no crank problem. Does it crank when you jumper the solenoid? Does the starter solenoid activate/click/switch? If no, then the starter or solenoid need repair. If yes, the key circuit needs to be repaired.

Step 2 fix the no start problem. Either ignition or fuel. Immobilizer maybe? Could be a lot of things, so systematic troubleshooting going through the circuits. Finding out where the problem IS NOT will eventually pinpoint where the problem IS. Sorry this isn't very detailed

 

I checked the inertia switch and pushed the top to reset. It was not protruding when I pushed as if it had not been tripped. I will check the connection to is as well. I will also check the power to the new coil however, unless I am mistaken I should still have crank ability. I will report back.

 

For the no crank problem, I am getting no indication from the starter solenoid that power is being applied, I verified power is being applied but get no noise or action from the solenoid. I was going to try jumping the solenoid to see what I get. To your point I will still have a no-start condition if the fuel pump is not priming. I will follow up on that after I test the starter.

 

I jumped the solenoid, it is cranking with direct power. The key still does nothing. As a side note I found my fob put a battery in to verify I could enable and disable the alarm, I used the test function and all worked accordingly. Are you thinking I will need a new ignition cylinder?

 

Also new discovery, I pulled the steering column shroud and found this plug not connected to anything it's just zip tied to another harness. Any idea what it is?

 

I missed the 'no crank' part there... may sound foolish, but try putting it in neutral and see if it cranks. could be a neutral switch or park switch, also check starter relay K137 and see if it works with the ignition key in the start position.