What I meant was, when you turn the key to the on position- before cranking it over- are you seeing the check engine light on? It should be lit as a bulb test, as should the oil light etc. If you are not getting the Check Engine light the bulb has either been removed/burned out, or the ECU and alarm are not communicating for whatever reason. Unless the AS10 alarm unit tells the ECU all is okay it will not run. The presence of the CEL with the key on indicates all is well.

Can you provide a pic of the crank sensor out of your truck? At this point it would help a great deal if we could see exactly what you have. If you need a known good sensor that came out of a running truck with the correct spacer send me your address and I will send you this one. You can also obtain the sensor from Autozone for about $60 and it comes with the correct spacer. It is an original Lucas part in their Duralast box.

Without knowing you have a correct & properly spaced sensor we are kind of dead in the water here.


CORRECTION- the sensor is a WELLS part #SU5136 and it came in a bag. It says Lucas right on the sensor, and MADE in ENGLAND on the bag. If you go on the AZ site there are several very clear pictures you can use to compare what you have. You will find it listed under engine management.

 

Quick background on me and fhe rover...

I have been a mechanic for 22 years now...i know obd2...how it all works together...and the generics of it....albiet not a rover mechanic..lol

Now the rover...pics really wont do any good...i literally have the sensor...the block it sits in and two bolts..where it mounts is just the engine block with 3 holes..one for the sensor and two for the bolts...i got the special spacers today and two longer bolts ( and yes i made sure they werent to long) and still no spark or injector pulse (all tests done right at the ecu)...am i missing a mount that goes on the engine block? I know i have the right sensor mount...the only other one is for a manual and it would shear my sensor...i have two new sensors and both do the same thing...it had already been replaced by the previous owner who swears he didnt lose anything..fyi..using a regular old meter set to a/c you can see the pulse from the crank sensor as you turn it over (again tested at the ecu)

Soooooo....my question now is what type of signal does the alarm send...i have 8.8 volts steady at the ecu..is it voltage regulated? Timed? Should it be battery voltage? I have two ecu both flashed for the disco...will only one be flashed to the alarm unit or is it vica versa and it wont matter....

Question questions questions....in all my years i havent ever had a anything gas diesel or two stroke that has frustrated me like this...thanks for all the help...sorry any typos..my laptop died so i'm using my phone to post

 

Oh and yes i know...block+sensor+spacers..and it can only be one sensor..it is a two wire not a 3...and there were only two blocks used..tall for auto short for manual..

 

Do you get the CEL with the key in the on position or not?

Answer my question, then I can help you. Simple yes or no will suffice.

Unless you want to keep grasping at straws?

 

Yes i have the cel light come on...my scanner does connect with the ecu..and there are no codes stored or pending

I do need your help...i do not grasp at straws...the tunes i do and the engines i build for a living do not allow me to be anything but methodical...i will post each step taken in order and what i checked from first to present...

1999 land rover discovery 1 4.0 no spider..just over 90,000 miles..originally came from arkansas area so corrosion is minimal
Previous owner sold due to no start condition..he said he replaced the ckp and had it at a dealer where they replaces the gems and flashed it..still crank no start so ..now its mine...
1) charged battery and checked all fuses and all accessories for proper operation..all ok
2) checked for cel at key on (yes) scanned for codes and to make sure i had communication with the ecu..no codes all ok
3) bought a ckp amd installed with the parts i listed above..no luck
4) downloaded electrical manual..checked voltage and grounds at ecu for coils, injectors, alarm and ckp signal..voltage present..no switching at both ecu and rwmote connectors..ckp is sending a switching signal..no way to know strength or actual a/c voltage without dragging out the scope
5) did all the same tests with the original ecu..same results
6) did a visual inspection on the wiring harness and checked all grounds per electrical manual
7)pulled coil packs and inspected for shorts in jumper wiring..all ok
8) ordered the spacers and bought new bolts and installed on ckp..no change
9) did a quick run thru of basics again to make sure i didnt miss anything

Any feedback is much appreciated..this is the first time i've ever posted to a forum so please bear with me...i'm not used to being stumped

 

Have you checked the wiring from the crank sensor to the ECU? You stated the sensor switches but no switching at remote connectors or ECU. It's not uncommon for the CKP leads to have the insulation cooked off under the exhaust manifold.

Have you taken a look at the MFR? Black wedge shaped box ahead of the ECU. Slice the seam with a razor blade and pull the cover off it. Try watching it with the cover off to see if the relays are pulling in. Use a plastic coffee stirer of chopstick to manually push the contacts together. Spray it out with contact cleaner and silicone the cover back on.

 

Lucas AS10 alarm info attached.

I also like this little blurb from the RAVE,

It is located in the left hand side
of the flywheel housing and uses a different thickness
of spacer for manual and automatic gearboxes.

Which confirms that spacer is different on manual and auto trans equipped vehicles. Another thing for the parts counter guys to confuse.

 

In the original post you said "when I turn on lights I get wipers " I would look hard at that multi function unit and also the wiring on the steering column, if this is why the PO sold the rig the original problem may have been a simple fix but a non rover knowledgeable mech poked around and made it a major problem, I have worked on alot of cars over the years and this is unlike any other I worked on so...

 

Higgs...checked out the MFR...was crazy clean and all the relays were moving freely...sprayed them down and closed it up
Savannah...thanks for the specifics on the alarm...it would be almost impossible without the right scanner to completely test but from what i can check seems ok
Tom...my sentiments exactly! It is without a doubt a challenging machine...all the years i've been wrenching i've never been stumped like this

Thanks to everyone...I refuse to let this thing beat me! I hate to say it but it has just got to be in the ckp somewhere...i will find it! Unfortunatly i have two motors to finish and a moron that thinks he is ready for me to take the restrictor tune off his track car...
I will post as soon as i figure this thing out..if you think of something let me know

 

+1. I'd also take out the turn signal switch and look for corrosion on the contacts. Do a search here for more detail.

For the sake of clarity (maybe I'm thick)....the engine cranks, but won't start, correct?

Have you checked the inertia switch?