I wouldn't touch it. Gives it "character".

Takes years to develop patina properly.

 

The man likes a clean truck. I get it.

 

LOL for that kind of character I can't wait...actually asked a paint shop if they would do just that, and got a hard stare back....
anyhoo, winter's coming, I'm parked in outdoor public parking, no tools, less knowledge...
plus I have leaking sunroofs, non-working cruise control, and sucky audio system to deal with.
To date, the quotes I got - $500 Maaco to paint the rear door and panel. $500 to powdercoat the Safari rack (rust on the joints), $3500 for all.
For that much $$, I can let character grow, I guess.
Living/working in war zones in Africa for the last 15 years, my Disco's my escape hatch, or PTSD-destroyer.
Just sitting inside Redneck Maria makes me breathe easier.

 

Flex Tape for the sunroofs. 4 inches wide, black, and nothing will get through. But, if you do paint it, no flex tape. Or, paint it and flex tape afterwards. The sunroof delima is not one that has an easy fix without dropping the headliner ad getting into a whole lot of flim flam.

 

Copy that. Good tip. I think I'll wait for spring and deal with headliner myself. Likely just plugged drains anyway. The front sunroof won't open so it's a moot point.

 

Nice truck!!!

 

I've never had plugged drains on a Rover. When I got my D1: you basically took a shower the next morning after a rain. It is not difficult to fix and is the same for D1 or D2. Remove headliner which probably needs to be recovered anyway and then the fix is not difficult. Check and reseal the roof rail mounts. Next remove the sunroof motors which is held in with 2 screws. Disconnect the drain hoses from the sunroof assembly. Cut them close to the tray if necessary. Remove the lower tray assembly from the sunroof. Once the tray is out; clean it well and remove the old sealant that was used on the corners to attach the drain connections. Reinstall the drain corner connections and seal from both sides. This is the main source of leaks. Also seal the spots where the roller blinds clip into the tray. Now you need to remove the sunroof assembly from the vehicle. Lift up from the bottom as it might be stuck to the roof. Clean the roof and the mating area on the sunroof assembly. Apply caulk or adhesive and set roof back in place. I used 1/4" wide 3m trim/panel adhesive tape. Now reattach the lower tray, motor and drain tubes. If you did not cut the tubes to remove them; I would trim them back to get to fresh hose so you have a good secure fit. Also blow through them just to make sure they are not clogged. Power the roof open and clean out the assembly and make sure the glass to gasket is making a good seal and adjust the timing if needed. Rover made some revisions on the mechanical tracks and some of the early D1s had them replaced under warranty. If you need to replace anything: get an assembly from a late D1 or D2. The D2 assemblies are easier to find in many of the DIY salvage yards and are the same thing. I never had water leaks after this from the roof area again.

 

Good info.. need to add one bit and ask a question..
Add that to get the best mileage from your sun roof motors - take them apart and clean the inside, re grease and replace the magnets if needed..the killer of these motors seem to be gunk inside that can be cleaned out.

Question (or 2) what is the part that fails causing sunroofs to 1) hang up at the changeover point.. from partial open to slide back?
2) what part fails causing them to rattle so bad when open?

I had completely rebuilt one on my 1st d1 and plan to do both on this one..
thanks for any info

 

Hey Mr Harambe,, I saw from another post that you have gloss finish on your bumper ends, did you start with ends from a LE? that were smooth to begin with? and did you add flex agent to that paint?
thanks