ALARM & Driver Door Issue ((Searched ad nauseum))
#31
12-08-2011 | 05:29 PM
Baja
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
I looked at the pages attached. The RAVE says behind LH fascia, but on the US version that is actually RH fascia isn't it. I know the window ECU is behind the glove box. I guess on the RHD version, the glove box is on the LH side so the component locations must be opposite each other when dealing with LHD. Correct?
#32
12-09-2011 | 02:53 PM
Thread Starter
|
Three Wheeling
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
I looked at the pages attached. The RAVE says behind LH fascia, but on the US version that is actually RH fascia isn't it. I know the window ECU is behind the glove box. I guess on the RHD version, the glove box is on the LH side so the component locations must be opposite each other when dealing with LHD. Correct?
Once I figure this thing out(next summer?) I plan to replace the Alarm of Evil with a bluetooth Arduino so I can still have all the cool lock and unlock functions via my Droid. Why? I am fortunate to have my Disco as a toy and only need it to run during the winter; I just don't have spare time.
#33
12-09-2011 | 06:58 PM
4th Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
* #4 * *
Today, 07:44 PM
Tattdav
Junior Member
*
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 2
I have a '98 discovery and every ime I try to start the ignition disables and alarm sounds. If I unlock the door with the key in a seq the try it will start. Also when off there is a knocking from under the good and is draining the battery. This is are family's only means of transport right now and are tight on money. Please help. Thanks
Today, 07:44 PM
Tattdav
Junior Member
*
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 2
I have a '98 discovery and every ime I try to start the ignition disables and alarm sounds. If I unlock the door with the key in a seq the try it will start. Also when off there is a knocking from under the good and is draining the battery. This is are family's only means of transport right now and are tight on money. Please help. Thanks
#34
12-09-2011 | 07:42 PM
Baja
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
These alarms are a true pain when they go haywire, and there are differences from year to years as well so i cannot even venture to offer any sound technical advice other than to say that the typical used and often neglected Dicovery I just is not a good vehicle to have as any family sole source of transportation and that it is not an inexpensive vehicle to repair unless it is a really simple fix and you can do a lot of maintenance yourself.
I realize that is probably not what you wanted to hear.
One thing you may take a look at is the battery. I know with the newer ones, when the battery voltage drops to a certain level, the alarm will initiate the immobilaztion feature design to prevent theft of the vehicle. Sounds like yours is doing that.
Maybe someone with a 98 or more detailed knowledge can offer solutions for you.
If your funding situation is not expected to improve, you may seriously need to evaluate trying to trade or sell your Discovery and get into a more suitable family sole mode of transportation alternative. Maintaining a Discovery on a limited budget aint easy, it is damn difficult and I will not tell you otherwise. Good Luck.
You will get excellent advise here.
I realize that is probably not what you wanted to hear.
One thing you may take a look at is the battery. I know with the newer ones, when the battery voltage drops to a certain level, the alarm will initiate the immobilaztion feature design to prevent theft of the vehicle. Sounds like yours is doing that.
Maybe someone with a 98 or more detailed knowledge can offer solutions for you.
If your funding situation is not expected to improve, you may seriously need to evaluate trying to trade or sell your Discovery and get into a more suitable family sole mode of transportation alternative. Maintaining a Discovery on a limited budget aint easy, it is damn difficult and I will not tell you otherwise. Good Luck.
You will get excellent advise here.
#35
12-10-2011 | 08:36 AM
Rock Crawling
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 480
Likes: 11
Tattdav,
Go to the first page of this thread, read the first post.
Check fuse f4 in satellite fuse box 2
(its the fuse box with 6 fuses in it on top of the fuse main fuse box and it's the 15 amp fuse)
If the fuse is blown:
Roll down the l/f window.
disconnect the battery.
replace the blown fuse.
lock the d/s door and shut it,
reconnect the battery
unlock the door with key.
hopefully that will help you
Go to the first page of this thread, read the first post.
Check fuse f4 in satellite fuse box 2
(its the fuse box with 6 fuses in it on top of the fuse main fuse box and it's the 15 amp fuse)
If the fuse is blown:
Roll down the l/f window.
disconnect the battery.
replace the blown fuse.
lock the d/s door and shut it,
reconnect the battery
unlock the door with key.
hopefully that will help you
Last edited by threalassmikeg; 12-10-2011 at 08:40 AM.
#36
12-10-2011 | 08:58 AM
Rock Crawling
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 480
Likes: 11
ThorsDisco,
You said your L/F door does not lock with the key
Have you made sure that your d/s door lock linkage is all hooked up properly?
There are 2 electrical components in the door that can affect the alarm
operation
A micro switch that is attached to the door handle lock tumbler
A door lock actuator motor.
Along with a couple of possible mechanical malfunctions that could cause a problem
A door latch lock mechanism that is binding (door latch)
The lock rod linkage is broken or installed improperly that goes to the
electric door lock actuator. it works of a turn buckle, it can be installed wrong
The lock rod that goes from the tumbler to the door latch could have fallen off
The cam that activates the micro switch attached to the lock cylinder has come disconnected or fell off.
Any of these issues could possibly cause your alarm to stay activated even though you've replaced your fuse.
You said your L/F door does not lock with the key
Have you made sure that your d/s door lock linkage is all hooked up properly?
There are 2 electrical components in the door that can affect the alarm
operation
A micro switch that is attached to the door handle lock tumbler
A door lock actuator motor.
Along with a couple of possible mechanical malfunctions that could cause a problem
A door latch lock mechanism that is binding (door latch)
The lock rod linkage is broken or installed improperly that goes to the
electric door lock actuator. it works of a turn buckle, it can be installed wrong
The lock rod that goes from the tumbler to the door latch could have fallen off
The cam that activates the micro switch attached to the lock cylinder has come disconnected or fell off.
Any of these issues could possibly cause your alarm to stay activated even though you've replaced your fuse.
#38
01-30-2016 | 04:30 PM
Three Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: North of Cincinnati
See Danny's post on page 3 for reference:
The Fix:[LIST=1][*]I tried putting +12v to pin 7 on C225 and grounding out the bluish wire; no results.
....[*]I thought that maybe since I am on this side of the pond that putting pin 7 to the negative terminal on the battery might work... RESULTS! The driver's door unlocked as if I used the key, but no start.....
The Fix:[LIST=1][*]I tried putting +12v to pin 7 on C225 and grounding out the bluish wire; no results.
....[*]I thought that maybe since I am on this side of the pond that putting pin 7 to the negative terminal on the battery might work... RESULTS! The driver's door unlocked as if I used the key, but no start.....
What Bluish wire are you referring too? The one that neighbors the yellow Pink at pin 7?
#40
01-30-2016 | 04:44 PM
Three Wheeling
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: North of Cincinnati
If you like the RAVE this is what you can find:
A. Most likely your driver door switch is not operating the alarm, so nothing else works right, system will remeber that it was armed, etc.
See attached drawings from the RAVE.
Locate connector C2101 in footwell, unplug, find blue/green wire, should be pin 3 on side toward door. If you can meter toward switch for ohms, should read short to ground when switch operated.
If no short from switch, go to connector that feeds toward the rest of the truck, and momentarily ground the blue/green. Should disarm. If wire is broken or grounded between that point an alarm module you will have more work ahead of you.
The alarm module sends 12 volt pulse to unlock the door on the yellow/pink wire on pin 6 of same connector. I think door must be electrically unlocked, this is a real PITA in Borneo when a tiger is chasing you and the battery is dead....
You'll need a bottle of ibuprofen to deal with the pretzel yoga positions involved.
A. Most likely your driver door switch is not operating the alarm, so nothing else works right, system will remeber that it was armed, etc.
See attached drawings from the RAVE.
Locate connector C2101 in footwell, unplug, find blue/green wire, should be pin 3 on side toward door. If you can meter toward switch for ohms, should read short to ground when switch operated.
If no short from switch, go to connector that feeds toward the rest of the truck, and momentarily ground the blue/green. Should disarm. If wire is broken or grounded between that point an alarm module you will have more work ahead of you.
The alarm module sends 12 volt pulse to unlock the door on the yellow/pink wire on pin 6 of same connector. I think door must be electrically unlocked, this is a real PITA in Borneo when a tiger is chasing you and the battery is dead....
You'll need a bottle of ibuprofen to deal with the pretzel yoga positions involved.
Please advice me if think the blue green wire you mention here must be grounded to get Thors trick in Opening Post to work. He's not been here since 2013.
I've not got it grounded and tried the trick and I hear nothing so I assume the door did not lock/unlock. Though maybe the alarm box got the signal as if it had?