ALARM & Driver Door Issue ((Searched ad nauseum))
#11
10-22-2011, 09:41 AM
Rock Crawling
Thors Disco - Alarmingly difficult to troubleshoot
Awesome! This is why I never buy luxury brand vehicles; they don't follow K.I.S.S. 
I appreciate the super-quick responses. I started to dive into the rave once I downloaded it again(old computer bit the dust) but I was a few quarts low on beer for the day.
...not looking forward to the yoga positions; 6'3", 220
I appreciate the super-quick responses. I started to dive into the rave once I downloaded it again(old computer bit the dust) but I was a few quarts low on beer for the day.
...not looking forward to the yoga positions; 6'3", 220
The following site has assisted me a GREAT deal in finding solutions, work arounds and general, well, hope. Others have also had success getting into, and actually moving their Discoveries:
Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A
Good luck, Sir!
Chris
#13
10-22-2011, 07:07 PM
#15
10-23-2011, 03:23 PM
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 51
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Thor -
The following site has assisted me a GREAT deal in finding solutions, work arounds and general, well, hope. Others have also had success getting into, and actually moving their Discoveries:
Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A
Good luck, Sir!
Chris
The following site has assisted me a GREAT deal in finding solutions, work arounds and general, well, hope. Others have also had success getting into, and actually moving their Discoveries:
Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A
Good luck, Sir!
Chris
I'll have to get into this more the next day I have off. I was sick this whole time and that just made it more frustrating.
I may just make it my life's work to put together a good write-up/photos/youtube video of how to make your Land Rover's alarm disappear!
...it's probably why a $38k vehicle is only worth $2-3k after just 12 years.
#16
10-23-2011, 08:54 PM
Super Moderator
#17
10-24-2011, 06:27 AM
Rock Crawling
That's how I got the "Key in Position II" idea; didn't start up.
I'll have to get into this more the next day I have off. I was sick this whole time and that just made it more frustrating.
I may just make it my life's work to put together a good write-up/photos/youtube video of how to make your Land Rover's alarm disappear!
...it's probably why a $38k vehicle is only worth $2-3k after just 12 years.
I'll have to get into this more the next day I have off. I was sick this whole time and that just made it more frustrating.
I may just make it my life's work to put together a good write-up/photos/youtube video of how to make your Land Rover's alarm disappear!
...it's probably why a $38k vehicle is only worth $2-3k after just 12 years.
I certainly hope you feel better.
That said, I would vote for your for "write up guy of the week or something" if you carry out that threat - especially if you cover the Spider too!! But only if it has pics...
Let me know if there is anything I can do to assist!
Chris
#18
10-24-2011, 06:54 AM
Super Moderator
#19
10-24-2011, 03:20 PM
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 51
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If you like the RAVE this is what you can find:
A. Most likely your driver door switch is not operating the alarm, so nothing else works right, system will remeber that it was armed, etc.
See attached drawings from the RAVE.
Locate connector C2101 in footwell, unplug, find blue/green
Do you mean turquoise? That's what I saw. When I read "blue/grean" related to wiring it usually means a wire that is blue and green, twisted or striped.
wire, should be pin 3 on side toward door. If you can meter toward switch for ohms, should read short to ground when switch operated.
If no short from switch, go to connector that feeds toward the rest of the truck, and momentarily ground the blue/green.
With the battery connected? Or will this work with just the mysterious extra battery just for the alarm(Land Rover's "Prank on the Yanks")? I tried it with battery disconnected and it didn't work.
Should disarm. If wire is broken or grounded between that point an alarm module you will have more work ahead of you.
The alarm module sends 12 volt pulse to unlock the door on the yellow/pink wire on pin 6 of same connector. I think door must be electrically unlocked, this is a real PITA in Borneo when a tiger is chasing you and the battery is dead....
You'll need a bottle of ibuprofen to deal with the pretzel yoga positions involved.
A. Most likely your driver door switch is not operating the alarm, so nothing else works right, system will remeber that it was armed, etc.
See attached drawings from the RAVE.
Locate connector C2101 in footwell, unplug, find blue/green
Do you mean turquoise? That's what I saw. When I read "blue/grean" related to wiring it usually means a wire that is blue and green, twisted or striped.
wire, should be pin 3 on side toward door. If you can meter toward switch for ohms, should read short to ground when switch operated.
If no short from switch, go to connector that feeds toward the rest of the truck, and momentarily ground the blue/green.
With the battery connected? Or will this work with just the mysterious extra battery just for the alarm(Land Rover's "Prank on the Yanks")? I tried it with battery disconnected and it didn't work.
Should disarm. If wire is broken or grounded between that point an alarm module you will have more work ahead of you.
The alarm module sends 12 volt pulse to unlock the door on the yellow/pink wire on pin 6 of same connector. I think door must be electrically unlocked, this is a real PITA in Borneo when a tiger is chasing you and the battery is dead....
You'll need a bottle of ibuprofen to deal with the pretzel yoga positions involved.
This was not that trim panel's first rodeo either! Somewhere from the deep the PO still haunts me, lol
#20
10-24-2011, 04:09 PM
Super Moderator
Battery needs to be connected. Open connector, read what ever color is on pin 3, it is supposed to be blue with green. Read for ohms toward door. Operate door, no short to ground means broken wire in harness or bad door switch.Read for volts toward dash, should be some DC volts. If volts there, wire should eb OK to module.If no ohms when door switch operated, plug connector back together. Stick pin in the wire on terminal three. Read pin for volts to ground. If same volts there as above test, short that pin to ground for a bump. Should cycle alarm and unlock door.If it does not, open connector. Put 12 volts on for a moment to the wire on pin 6, which is supposed to be yellow and pink. Do this on connector that goes toward door. Door should unlock. Leave connector off while you finish troubleshooting so door can't re-lock. BTW, you won't be able to lock door until you get this fixed.