I should quit with the sarcasm. The Rover gods don't like it.

I got the call from service tech today about the rover. Turns out the misfire is from a dead MAF. So... fairly straightforward there for those of you who may be searching this up. CHECK YOUR MAFs!!

However, they didn't just stop there, and they went and looked at all the other crap that's broken. Seeing it all on paper is pretty overwhelming. So I gotta figure out if I want to dive into replacing everything that holds, transports, or touches any type of fluid or lubricant. And also front brakes. Which are apparently complicated.

Thanks for playing along everyone!

 

Front brakes are easy. I'd be curious to see the doom and gloom.

 

Me too on the doom and gloom report.

 

They said the radiator is leaking, lower hose is swollen and "about to blow", water pump leaking, and they recommend head gaskets & plenum (i think) gasket in order to completely fix it.

Power steering leaking, "almost no fluid left". Power steering works fine, though. Is that normal?

Transmission lines leaking, fluid "burnt" and low.

I can see the small water pump leak. It pukes about an ounce of fluid on the ground after it's parked maybe twice a week. Doesn't overheat (yet). Does have waterfall sound, though.

Other than that I'm not getting any puddles or major drips on the ground under it... wonder if I could still drive it occasionally while systematically addressing the leaks and fluid levels.

 

Recommending and absolutely needing are two different worlds. Everything on the list YOU can do yourself, EVERYTHING!

Even the MAF you snag aftermarket someplace. I'd pay em for the diagnostics and knock it out yourself.

 

Yep. I was thinking that... trying to figure out just what you said, "recommending vs. needing".

The only real worrisome thing is the lower radiator hose. I'd prefer NOT blowing that up on the drive back home.

Also I've checked the engine oil 3 times since I changed it a couple weeks ago. It's still showing in the full range on the dipstick.

Maybe just go get it, and throw a MAF in it. Worst case scenario... i'm parting it out in a few weeks. Right?

Hope not... I kinda dig the truck.

 

I would pay the diag and bolt. All of that crap is simple. So your saying the water pump is leaking so they recommend HG to fix it "correctly "?!

Screw that place. Sounds like they want to make a boatload off of your lack of knowledge. Trans fluid "burnt" is a classic line. If it's red your fine. Although changing all the fluids is a good idea.

 

I mean I don't wanna diss the shop or anything. Most of their customers probably aren't in the "I want a project truck" camp, you know? Me, I don't need the thing to be factory fresh. I just want to be able to drive it a few miles around town when the weather is crappy.

Anyway... yeah. All the rest of the fluids are on my list of stuff to do. Just wanted to get it running and tags first. Which means dealing with these emission issues.

We were talking about the brakes, though, and he was saying you need all these other wheel parts along with it to do like a complete overhaul. Various seals and bearings and whatnot.

I mean... Can't I just replace some pads and clean up the parts? Maybe bleed some fluid? Or is it all like one big unit of British randomness?

 

No. Breaks are super simple. Unless you have a wheel bearing/component problem you don't need to replace a bunch of crap from a maintenance point of view.

It's really easy. Have you downloaded the RAVE manual for these trucks yet? It's in the tech section. Basically the same as any other vehicle brake job. Pads are easy removing the rotor is a few more steps. Check for wheel bearing play at the wheels when you jack it up. At some point you'll want to repack your bearings and adjust the bearing preload.

 

Yep. I've got the RAVE. Done tons of pad and rotor swaps over the years... I'm not too scared to dive into it if it's like a normal vehicle.