I'm preparation for. Summer cross country trip, we drove our 1995 D1 3.9L across Missouri to st louis. All was fine except for that one time in Kansas City traffic with the a/c on. The temp gauge went to 3/4. Hi ad to pull over and cool her down.

So, after arriving safely in St Louis I did some reading on the forum. There is some really great info on troubleshooting here and I think I have it mostly figured out, but here is my question. Is the stock 1995D1 radiator, cleaned and cooling as designed, is it a solid system? What I mean is, there seems to me to be little room for error. Would the cooling system benefit from a 4 core aluminimum radiator or is it overkill with minimal return on investment? I see a broad variance in costs, from $300-$800 for a 4 core. Is there a significant difference in quality or am I seeing over priced radiators?

I'm taking the family on a road trip from Kansas to Western Pennsylvania to Texas and back to Kansas this June and I will def be running the a/c in traffic and want, not only to have the ability, but I would like extra capacity to sit in traffic in 110 degree Texas summer sun.

Bottom line, do I need the 4-core, or is a nice to have, or should I avoid them all together?

Thanks!

Johnny

 

Neveimd
After doing a little more searching the forum, all my questions have already been answered. I will keep the original rad and take the necessary step to get it back in shape before doing anything more radical than a radiator cleaning. Thanks all for your past posts and general sharing of knowledge.

 

Did you happen to notice the electric pusher fans turning on while sitting in traffic with the A/C on?

Just saw your second post, there are a few of us that can point you in the right directions. You live in Kansas, gets pretty hot and humid there so your question about the four core isn't far off.

I'll tell you that I'm currently looking at improving my Jeeps cooling. I bought a FlowKooler water pump and high flow t-stat - Robert Shaw 330-195. I plan on stroking the motor to a 4.7L with a 258's crank and rods.

Here's a site you can take some info from while mulling over cooling - https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com...c1c36f805b77e1

 

Do you know anyone with experience with the high flowceater pump? Pretty expensive, but certainly worth the cost if it keeps the block cool.

The fans do come on. As a matter of fact, I used them to cool the engine by keeping them running with the engine off. After reading, I think I may have slight clogging in the radiator. My fist step will be a good flush and testing the thremostat, fan clutch, a/c clutch, blowing out the coils. I've only owned the truck for two months, so I don't know the entire history. I know it was extremely well maintained until 2013, when it left the original owner. The radiator was replaced in 2009ish, so it may not have been maintained since 2013 or so.

Is there a high flow thermostat for the D1?

 

Nobody on my block, I'll let you know how my Jeep does with the high flow water pump. The Robert Shaw 330-195 should fit your thermostat housing. I would check the fan clutch, it's the one item that's so overlooked by everyone, something so simple can cripple cooling. If it sat for 5 years there's a chance the fluid has left the housing. To check a fan clutch warm up the motor to operating temp then shut it off. Rotate the fan by hand hard, if the fan resists rotation (less than one turn) then the clutch is good. If it keeps spinning for more than three turns it's shot.

 

I did see the article about tstat dimensions and wondered about the fittment. I was a series owner until recently and am still learning about discos and the opportunities for cross species parts interchange.

I think I'm I'm the market for the water pump now. I mentioned it to the wife and she hardly flinched. I just need to read a few strongly written reviews. It looks like they're almost ready to sell to Disco owners.

 

Couldn't help noticing the Rover price, twice what I paid for a 4.0L Jeep. It's a nice unit though, well built. There was this thread; https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-merica-70442/ He had good results, was mystified why Rovers overheat so often and came up with different approach.

 

IHScouts,

thanks for the patience. I just returned from ST Louis this evening and conducted the fan clutch test- lt yurns about 1/4 turn, so i should be good there. Then, i poked around with my uv thermometer and noticed a significant temp differential from the top and the bottom. So, it seems to run at good temps with no a/c at slow speeds, normal temp with a/c at hwy speeds, and takes about 10 minutes of slow moving with a/c on to see the temp start to rise.

i assume my radiator is clogged. Just to make sure, the 1995 D1 radiator is brass? i think im in need of a good cleaning- and more than a flush, unfortunately. i'll work from there till i get it back into shape for a trip to Texas in June!

 

The stock radiator has brass side tanks with a copper core (tubes). To me it's the best of the best. When I clean a radiator I remove it, dump a gallon of straight CLR in it, tape off inlet/outlet and turn it to allow the CLR to fill in the tubes. Then set if flat on it's face and let the CLR sit for a day. If you have a compressor you can give the radiator a blast of air (30psi max) to dislodge crud. Rinse out with a hose. I use distilled and green coolant to refill it. You can back-flush the motor and heater core in the mean time while waiting on the CLR to do it's thing.

I have a cast iron pump for flushing straight CLR through a cooling system. I've used it to clean water jackets on old ammonia compressors to like new condition. The heads remained the water temp after 24 hours of straight use, just checked them the other day and still cooled a year after flushing. Turned the CLR in my bucket a solid beige color from all the rust and calcium.

 

"The stock radiator has brass side tanks with a copper core (tubes)." Thank you, that is what i remember reading, but didnt want to do anything drastic without verifying.

Also! Using the CLR is a great idea! I often wonder why i cant think of things like that- looks like i have a project for the weekend.

i am thinking about the waterpump and high volume tstat, also. ive emailed the company to get a restocking date. im still not 100% sold on the results vs the cost, but i've read some convincing arguments (including yours) and i am leaning that way,

Thanks again, IHScouts, for your input. Pulling and cleaning sure beats pulling, delivering, waiting, paying, I'll take some pre and post cleaning photos with a borescope.