Airtex makes a wp with brass impeller - Airtex STC 4378G

stay away from the cheap alum rads you find on ebay - just pulled one out and replaced with a nissans composite tank - so far so good

the pumps you linked look really nice but Im curious as too why they mention cavitation and steam. We dont run cars on pure H2O. Coolant fluid is designed to prevent cavitation. In a pressurized system the boiling temp raises. Just seems odd - Im personally not sold.

 

whiskeynipple0088, Is there an advantage to a brass impeller? The only pic i could find had a cast brass impeller with minimal finishing. Seems the only difference is the material? I can't think of a real advantage to this- but i don't know much. BTW, thanks for the report on the aluminium rad. i had kind of come to that conclusion after reading more about them, and the need to add trans and oil coolers. The truck is my DD, so i am always looking to minimize down time (though the office is only 2.5 miles away).

I'm still on the fence regarding the water pump. If i am understanding correctly, the claim to reduce cavitation is in response to high RPM engines. I can see there would be benefit of higher water flows at low speeds, which is the purpose for adding to a LR, however, it seems to me that the greatest cooling effect at low speeds is greater air flow, not H2O. I am looking to add cooling capacity to the system so in 100+ degrees so i don't end up stranded. The question for is, what do i want to move faster; air or water? i dont know yet.

IHscouts mentioned using CLR in the radiator- my first thought was, maybe i can run it straight through the system to flush- but i think that's a bad idea. 1. Apparently, CLR will etch aluminum and 2. i am thinking that if i dislodge any big chucks, there is a chance that i may foul, clog, block other parts of the system, so i will do this in threre operations, the first one being the radiator, the second, using a pump to circulate through the the heater core. I don't think the block needs the same heavy flush, so thirdly, i will do an overall system flush to clean up anything i missed in the previous steps.

 

Honestly Idk what the advantage of brass over steel is. It seems to be the prefered type and is not much more expensive. (btw I pulled a steel impeller wp off (108k miles)- pretty sure that was orig. but not certain)
My own justification comes from pump design - a smooth impeller = less cavitation (though cavitation shouldnt be an issue when running proper coolant).

air v coolant speed - i really dont think that is the issue unless you have a blockage - the stock system should work just fine.

I have no exp. with CLR. but IHscouts seems to be extremely knowledgeable (way more than me) about these and just vehicles in general.

if you are still running the stock rad I would highly recommend taking it to a rad shop and have them test it.

 

I'm installing $130 bucks (pump and t-stat) worth of gut instinct that fits my situation. If their marketing hype is true, great, I'll be a fan. If not then I just installed one ninth my Jeeps total purchase price. I belong to a Jeep forum and boy does this topic (FlowKooler) bring out the personalities...... So what if she has a gap between her teeth, what's the rest look like eh?

 

oh cool so you will have real hands on experience - be interested to see what you find

 

Installed the new pump and t-stat, motor runs at 195* and doesn't move. This is the first time the temp gauge has remained steady. It normally wags between 196 and 210. I think the high flow Robert Shaw t-stat is the star. The old pumps impeller was plastic? Same amount of vanes although not as long as the FK's and the plastic impeller was warped in a couple of places. I used my hand across the radiator, inlet was very hot, opposite side top it was actually just warm and the bottom was darn near ambient. So as far as flow I'd say the setup works like a charm.

A Robert Shaw and a quality pump is a good start. In high temps with or without humidity I'd probably increase the amount of cores just because it takes more cooling surface than low temp, low humidity.

 

I think im sold!

 

i did not read the entire thread but fornseveral years i have run the ebay aluminum with plastic bowels, direct fit and no issues with it and i have driven long distances in all weather and wheeled hard at times

i also run the s10 fan clutch, think stant 180 stat and did the pump when i rebuilt the engine , has steel impeller

now i seem to run fine temp wise unless its hot and im running both ac units, then she will get hot and not want to stay cooled down especially if im not moving

ive even considered cutting grills into the hood to let heat out

 

Well, I think i found my problem. After properly filling the rad and making sure there was no air in the system, i drove the LR around for a week or so at temp with a/c on and could not get it to rise, so i figured that the problem was low water level, then last weekend, i drove into KC and it happened again on the way home with a dread feeling and an angry wife for not having a/c. Upon arriving home, i immediately got under the hood, thinking i must have a slow coolant leak and pulled the upper shroud off. i accidentally spun the fan......... and around and around it went with no resistance at all. I will warn everyone that i had driven around at temp in the local area and tested the fan clutch and it seemed ok under mild driving conditions, but after an hour of hwy and stop and go, it was definitely bad.

so, i jumped on amazon and bought the pulley holder and 36mm wrench then down to the parts house for the clutch. spent about $100 in tools and parts- a bargain compared to the worry it was causing. Also, a big thanks to whomever suggested the pulley holder on this forum, it worked like charm and the process of removal and refitment only took about 15 minutes, minus the 15 spent cleaning the road dust off the fan ( a perfect fit in the kitchen sink, BTW).

tonight, i drove her into KC again with a/c and headlights and couldnt get the temp needle to budge. i think i am cured for the time being, eventually, i want to get a high volume water pump, but they arent available for the Disco right now, 3 people have pre-ordered, 7 more needed to go to production, so i'll have to wait. i want to thank everyone for the great input and suggestions that i now have in my kit bag. i am now confident to take her on our cross country trek!

 

what brand fan clutch did your purchase
I got a URO and it seems to always be engaged unless on hwy