BCM? do I need to replace with ECM?
I have a extra 96 ECM and I'm having some issues with my D1. So was thinking of replacing it to see if that fixes it. But wondering if I'm going to create more issues.
I read something about a BCM? And do I need to have a matched BCM with the new ECM that I want to put in?
I read something about a BCM? And do I need to have a matched BCM with the new ECM that I want to put in?
I have heard, many times over, of people successfully dropping a GEMS EFI ECU (what I'm assuming you mean when you say ECM) in with no issues. The one thing likely to increase the chances of success is to swap like for like. Try to match part numbers. Make sure you're not getting an EFI ECU from a later DI that had the advanced evaporative system as, at the very least, you'll have a permanent CEL issue, at worst, the ECU simply won't work. To further increase the likelihood of success you can get a known matched pair of EFI and Alarm ECU's. The Lucas 10AS Alarm ECU is the green box behind and under the glovebox on a hinged mount that drops down. With a matched pair you're almost certain the two will work together in your truck.
As an aside, there really isn't a BCU in the DI like what you'd find in the DII. There is the MFU or Multi Function Unit that piggybacks the interior fuse box. It's either a small black or tan box on the backside of the fuse box. It controls many of the interior electrical functions. If you have the RAVE, there is a way to test the MFU to make sure that it is working properly.
As an aside, there really isn't a BCU in the DI like what you'd find in the DII. There is the MFU or Multi Function Unit that piggybacks the interior fuse box. It's either a small black or tan box on the backside of the fuse box. It controls many of the interior electrical functions. If you have the RAVE, there is a way to test the MFU to make sure that it is working properly.
I have heard, many times over, of people successfully dropping a GEMS EFI ECU (what I'm assuming you mean when you say ECM) in with no issues. The one thing likely to increase the chances of success is to swap like for like. Try to match part numbers. Make sure you're not getting an EFI ECU from a later DI that had the advanced evaporative system as, at the very least, you'll have a permanent CEL issue, at worst, the ECU simply won't work. To further increase the likelihood of success you can get a known matched pair of EFI and Alarm ECU's. The Lucas 10AS Alarm ECU is the green box behind and under the glovebox on a hinged mount that drops down. With a matched pair you're almost certain the two will work together in your truck.
I'm trying to figure out what my risk is of making my vehicle not drivable by doing a swap. And hopefully if doesn't work, I could just put back in my old ECU?
Yes you can swap out your ECM's without worrying. Transmission is not a player, there's no input/outputs involving the trans. You will need to adjust idle speed and that you can do all by yourself. Your ECM retains it's information when removed so if it's working now it will work if you need to swap it back to original.
According to this link I found on rangerovers.net the ECM will need to be programmed for RR P38 models. So this isn't the case for the D1?
Replacement and Reprogramming the BeCM, Locks, Remotes, or ECM
ECM Replacement
If you have to replace the Engine Control Module (ECM, or sometimes called the Engine ECU), it has to be reprogrammed to accept the correct remobilizationn code form the BeCM. Steve Norman, who runs an independent shop and has a TestBook/T4, reports that he has done this quite frequently. If you fit a new engine ECU (new or used) you can use T4 to match the immobilization signal into the engine ECU. THus you can have more than one "matched" engine ECU to a vehicle. So, once matched to the vehicle, you can swap ECU's without re-matching.
If you have to replace the Engine Control Module (ECM, or sometimes called the Engine ECU), it has to be reprogrammed to accept the correct remobilizationn code form the BeCM. Steve Norman, who runs an independent shop and has a TestBook/T4, reports that he has done this quite frequently. If you fit a new engine ECU (new or used) you can use T4 to match the immobilization signal into the engine ECU. THus you can have more than one "matched" engine ECU to a vehicle. So, once matched to the vehicle, you can swap ECU's without re-matching.
The sophistication of the link between the BeCM and EFI ECU is different in the P38. In the DI, I always sell matched pairs of Alarm ECU and EFI ECU to insure compatibility. It's why I said in my original post that I had heard of people simply dropping EFI ECU's into DI's without issue. My personal experience has been different. As a result, I always put matched pairs into a DI when attempting to troubleshoot a problem relating to these parts.
Now, when it comes to the P38, a matched pair of EFI ECU and BeCM or essential for shade tree mechanic lacking Testbook or similar.
Now, when it comes to the P38, a matched pair of EFI ECU and BeCM or essential for shade tree mechanic lacking Testbook or similar.
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