Because I'm too cheap to buy a new prop shaft
I'm too cheap to buy turd polish, I make my own. 
That's good info on the shafts, I had no idea they switched over. I'm very much a Rover noob, but I know what it's like to be on the other end as well... I'm just glad there isn't noob-bashing here like there is on the VW/Audi forums. Y'all seem very civilized.

That's good info on the shafts, I had no idea they switched over. I'm very much a Rover noob, but I know what it's like to be on the other end as well... I'm just glad there isn't noob-bashing here like there is on the VW/Audi forums. Y'all seem very civilized.
Land Rover made a change somewhere along the way that did away with the rotoflex and changed over to the rear u-joints as well. It uses a four bolt flange rather than a three bolt flange. It is true that new "upgraded" driveshafts are available like you said, but you can also go used if you find one from a 98DI or possibly mid 97, I do not know the exact change over. LR was known to make changes whenever they chose to and tracked them by VIN #.
My used 98 d/s and required parts was roughly $100. D/s was sourced locally for like $50 or so, then flange and new seal accounted for the rest.
Paul and PT both provide great prices on used parts, so as a newbie, it is good to check with them when needing parts which is almost constant for a while.
My used 98 d/s and required parts was roughly $100. D/s was sourced locally for like $50 or so, then flange and new seal accounted for the rest.
Paul and PT both provide great prices on used parts, so as a newbie, it is good to check with them when needing parts which is almost constant for a while.
Late '97 through '99 DI's switched to a 4 u-joint set up, WAY better than the roto coupler.
BUT they went back to it with the DII.
New parts? I'm your man. Used stuff, Paul Grant, Marty Powell, Will Tillery, Joel Mercer are just a few off the top of my head.
As a frequent "partz vulture" that flys low in the junk yard; I would point out that in most junkyards the vehicles are moved about by a large fork lift, and frequently the drive shafts are dented and bent in the process. Buying new, or from a dismantler (parts guy that removes it by hand) would be preferred over the salvage yard.
PT, thanks for the clarification. Do you have a website or other means of seeing what you have availabvlke? I know I have seen yoiur name on here and other places but have not yet had occasion to deal with you.
The place I deal with locally brings their vehicles into a former steel mill building along the river in Pittsburgh. They go ahead and remove the major items and place them into inventory and then crush the vehicle and recycle the metals. It is quite different than a typical junkyard.
But one always takes a chance on most used parts. I have done well with both Will Tillery and Paul Grant.
The place I deal with locally brings their vehicles into a former steel mill building along the river in Pittsburgh. They go ahead and remove the major items and place them into inventory and then crush the vehicle and recycle the metals. It is quite different than a typical junkyard.
But one always takes a chance on most used parts. I have done well with both Will Tillery and Paul Grant.
I stock popular parts for Classics/DIIs/200 and 300 TDis.


