Dayum! That looks so much better than mine already... Probably because I beat the crap out of mine on a weekly basis, lol. Nice job on the bumper trim, though you may want to remove the center plastic at some point. I find the holes in it to be useful when I need to mount my dune flag bracket.

I would say don't waste money on a rear bumper unless you actually manage to destroy yours on the trail. I've managed to pull a rear endcap off two or three times, before I came up with a more permanent mounting solution involving thick rubber washers and self-tapping screws. No problems since.

If you want to spend money on a rack, get a full rack. Besides looking sweet, they only cost a bit more than a half rack. I'm saving my dough so I can get one when we have kids... You will eventually have rear passengers, or at least a dog kennel to worry about.

Rock sliders, same story, wait until you break or scratch the plastic trim, it takes some gumption to drive over rocks that big anyway. I finally broke the trim on my driver's side, I will be welding sliders before long. Oh yeah and buy a welder/learn how to weld. Takes a couple months of practice depending on what process(es) you want to learn, but when you can whip out $200 worth of parts in an hour or two you will thank me. A nice welding machine costs way less than a pair of sliders.

MPG? Seriously? I guess you should add an E-fan conversion to your list, I haven't done that one yet. But the lift, tires, roof rack, and extra weight are all counter productive. I can still pull 14 on a very good day, 10-12 is average. 7 when I'm flooring it in low range driving up sand dunes, or crawling at 1 MPH.



Tires - after you fix the CDL, go off-roading multiple times with what you have and report back. I tend to recommend M/Ts because they help you stave off the locker purchase and do well on most types of terrain. I have had BFG A/Ts and they are good in sand, dirt, gravel, water (not mud), light snow, etc.

Treadwrights are fine if they have a tread pattern you like in the size you want. All-terrains are fine if you have a major stigma against mud terrains... I have had multiple sets of A/Ts before I went to M/Ts, and I have never looked back. I am a big fan of the Firestone Destination MT, they were good enough for me to drive several miles through 18" of snow in a 2WD F250 (repeatedly), and actually made it a useful trail rig. I am planning to go to BFG KM2s on the Disco in the next few months because they have received excellent reviews and I trust BFG.

You must be kidding. A 32" tire gives you just barely enough differential clearance for moderate trials. 29s and 30s should only be considered if you have no rocks in your area.

For a 2" lift (to allow 31 or 32" tires of course) I recommend OME heavy duty springs. I run them in a lightly laden rig and they are not as harsh as some people suggest. Get Nitrocharger or Terrafirma shocks, the Pro Comps suck and can't really damp the spring action very well, ask how I know. If you can't afford nice springs, you have two basic options - spacers or FJ coils, the coils being preferable if you can find them. Ask AKdisco and others for more details, but basically you only need the front set (for the rear of yours) and you move your rear springs to the front.



31s and I would not have made it through this section:



Considering the fact that longer springs and longer shocks can allow greater articulation, many of the "tradeoffs" of stiffer springs can be mitigated by deleting the rear sway. I actually consider a 2" lift pretty much optimal for these rigs, right at the breaking point of the cost/benefit curve. Much higher and you'll overrun your parts budget quickly, much lower and you'll have to run stock size tires. Your axles will still articulate just fine.

Oh yeah, a hi-lift can be a life saver, but it can also kill you. Just practice using it in a controlled environment so you can learn which direction the rig will tip. Carry a can of WD-40 in case it jams. Get a wheel adapter for it so you can lift one wheel at a time. I store mine in the space under the rear bench seat when it's folder forward, helps keep the center of gravity low and it won't fly around on bumpy terrain.

I am going to say, emphatically, do one thing at a time, wheel with it for a while until you identify the next thing you actually need. If you buy all the things you currently want, you will lack money for modifications you "need" later. Unless you're on an Arnold Schwarzenegger budget or something...

 

Oh and relocate your steering damper:

 

So my short list of recommendations:

E-fan conversion (for MPG, since you mentioned it. Just get an adequate one so you don't overheat the engine.)
Steering damper relocation kit (increased under-axle clearance, peace of mind)
OME or FJ coil lift (increased wheel well clearance )
215/85 or 235/85-16 tires, BFG KM2s or Firestone Destination MTs - unless you find ATs to be adequate (increased ground clearance)
235/85s and 265/75s require minor trimming, 215/85s should not. Some say even 245/75s rub slightly on full flex.
Welding machine, start practicing for when you need it... (you'll need it)
Large duffel bag and cargo tie-downs in the storage area (prevent deadly projectiles)
Full roof rack (increased storage space)

^ that should set you back a few bills, or make that several, then decide what else is needed. Take it slowly, you'll enjoy it more. Kind of like, er, never mind.

EDIT, sorry for the triple post.

 

I replaced the stock springs on my '97 with OME HD springs and shocks, 2" lift. The vehicle is lightly loaded most of the time and the ride on-road is fine IMO. Not sure how it affects the off-road articulation, but I am also a trail/family camper guy, so I don't really care so much about maximum axel articulation.

 

LeakyDisco, I just saw your signature, how on earth did you find a wife with only 20k miles on her?

J/K

Anyway articulation is fine. Disconnect the sways if you need more. This is with sways still on, and I still had enough flex to go up and over that rock on the right side. I have since had to trim the rear fenders on both sides though...

 

so far i've been a huge fan of my TerraFirma MD kit. But after having the kit for 3 months im now thinking about upgrading to their long travel shocks (16" of travel) and dual shock front towers.
Also, i've had several sets of BFG's over the years, and the A/T's suck very much. The M/T's aren't bad, but still not my favorite. I'm running Kumho Kl71's now and theyre probably the best tire ive ever owned, super quiet but very aggressive.
Kumho Road Venture MT KL71

 

Every set of Kumho tires I've owned has failed prematurely, and that includes at least three sets. I can't say I've had similar issues (premature treadwear, sidewall bulges, etc.) very often with any other brand. Perhaps Kumho has changed, but I'm not eager to find out.

 

My opinion (once you get your CDL unfrozen) would be to take it out on some more challenging trails to try and find your weak spots. Is it ground clearance? Is it departure angle? Is it grip? Is it nighttime trail lighting? Is it cargo space?

That way, when you start throwing cash around, you have a better idea what your NEEDS are as opposed to what you think you need.

....I'd add a CB radio to that list for trail comm.

GOOD LUCK!

 

^ This is true. You certainly may not need what you think you need, and conversely you certainly may need what you think you don't. One way to find out, go try to break stuff.

 

Alright, man guys...vast information! Thanks a lot ya'll. So many options, but like you all are saying. I'll get that dumb CDL fixed then see where I'm at, I'm just eager, haha.