Are you bleeding the fluid out of the caliper instead of back to the ABS and Master Cylinder. Dirt goes both ways. If unhooking a brake line, put a stick or a rod , something to push brake pedal about halfway down. This keeps fluid from leaking from ABS and MC while changing out calipers or hoses. Learned this from Rover Forum, works on all ABS cars.

 

I'm doing the two person bleed method.

I replaced the proportioning valve today. I was able to bleed the rear brakes. I bled all calipers twice. But the pedal still goes to the floor when the car is warm.

I also think that the rear brakes don't work. The discs are cold in the rear after a drive when the front is really hot.

Calipers are all good. No frozen pistons or anything.

Can't really figure out what's wrong with it.

 

Tried it this way today when I took out the ABS modulator. I took it out and inspected the solenoids, lots of sludge in there. So I cleaned it out.

I'm starting to think that this is just how it's supposed to be? Maybe I'm just used to normal car brakes. Pedal goes down to about an inch from the floor when the engine is on. The truck stops every time. Just more pedal travel than I'm used to.

Can somebody confirm this for me?

Thanks

 

no
mine only moves a inch (or about)

 

Thanks for that.

Found a thread on the roversnorth forum:
Bleeding Brakes - Page 2

Last reply mentions to have the key on when bleeding to open the ABS solenoids. Is this true? I have noticed that when bleeding with the key out of the ignition, it is hard to move fluid through the rear brakes. But I was able to move some fluid and some air. But not nearly as much as the front brakes.

 

check the rear brake proportioning valve...mine was stuck....and then leaked....had to replace it

 

Is that the one on the driver's side fender? I replaced it a few days ago, no improvement.

 

I heard somewhere that a bad wheel bearing could cause braking problems. I did replace the front ones and I found out I had a bad rear bearing so I just replaced both rear bearings. Still no luck though.


Any possibility that the new master cylinder is bad?

 

you bench bled the MC first - right?
you might want to invest in a breakline pressure kit - or some way of measurement of pressure

 

Yes I did bench bleed.

I just went to bleed the new MC again, and noticed it's leaking at the booster side. It also doesn't push out any fluid to the rear brakes. So I guess I do have another bad master cylinder.

I will get in touch with Lucky8 about this. Hopefully they can send me a new one by the weekend.